Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice looking car mate, love the kit.

Are you in Melbourne? Maybe talk to SScotty m35 about parts. Also I have a NISMO ECU for sale currently if you want one. It's the perfect partner for emanage ultimate plus also a good upgrade as it stands

You can find the ECU in the stagea parts for sale section

ever want to sell that kit come to me first as ive been looking for a takero kit in oz

Hi Guys,

I bought this 2003 M35 Nissan Stage RS Four 250t last year, imported by bespoke in melbourne. After a few repairs to get it running smoothly I'm now looking at doing some moderate mods to it such as exhaust, ecu, shift kit, and tune. Can anyone point me in the right direction for parts etc for m35's?

Cheers,

Tom

With that front bar and intercooler are you sure there aren't already some mods? Have you had a look at the ecu?

With that front bar and intercooler are you sure there aren't already some mods? Have you had a look at the ecu?

Hi Kiwi,

To be honest I haven't had a look at the ecu. I might have to check it out.

I can find it under the dash on the passenger side can't I?

Mines tuned ECU?

Yeah, 'Mines' as in the workshop. They did custom tunes etc, yours is one of those. if you take off the bolts on the cradle and pull the ECU out (you can leave it plugged in, no dramas with that) you'll see a gold plate on it to indicate this if I'm not mistaken :)

Yeah, 'Mines' as in the workshop. They did custom tunes etc, yours is one of those. if you take off the bolts on the cradle and pull the ECU out (you can leave it plugged in, no dramas with that) you'll see a gold plate on it to indicate this if I'm not mistaken :)

Good spotting the #@Dunc if your right that is a great score.

Good spotting the #@Dunc if your right that is a great score.

Yeah, 'Mines' as in the workshop. They did custom tunes etc, yours is one of those. if you take off the bolts on the cradle and pull the ECU out (you can leave it plugged in, no dramas with that) you'll see a gold plate on it to indicate this if I'm not mistaken :)

Yeah it looks like you're right.

I just went and had another look without pulling the ecu out and their is a gold/copper coloured plate on the ecu with a lot of japanese text on it.

20140214_142338.jpg

I'll pull it out over the weekend.

Do you guys know what kind of tune the mines tuned ecu gives you?

Yeah it looks like you're right.

I just went and had another look without pulling the ecu out and their is a gold/copper coloured plate on the ecu with a lot of japanese text on it.

20140214_142338.jpg

I'll pull it out over the weekend.

Do you guys know what kind of tune the mines tuned ecu gives you?

It really depends on the car and what the owner asked for. Generally differant fuel maps. Potentially speed limiter removed. Throttle restrictions may also be removed.

It really depends on the car and what the owner asked for. Generally differant fuel maps. Potentially speed limiter removed. Throttle restrictions may also be removed.

Pretty much. The Mines website suggests they do " speed limiter, rev limiter, boost cut control, and firing timing." firing timing being japenglish for 'ignition timing' I'd say. It'd be interesting to know what power its making as it stands! You could try contacting them to see if they can tell you what was done; it might be on file in their systems with a reference to the car's VIN.

Score.

As Duncan said, give them the code on the sticker above, M35804VX6, it should be the serial number for the rom. If you can find a suitable translator, or get Jesse Streeter to email them perhaps, you might be able to find out what was done to it.

I would be running it up on a local dyno, just to make sure there is no knock, afr's are fine, and to find out if our 98 is generally ok with the 100 octane map that is most likely on it. Quite often the Japanese run way too much timing in the map on their rom tunes, which may be hard to check without knock ears.

Score.

As Duncan said, give them the code on the sticker above, M35804VX6, it should be the serial number for the rom. If you can find a suitable translator, or get Jesse Streeter to email them perhaps, you might be able to find out what was done to it.

I would be running it up on a local dyno, just to make sure there is no knock, afr's are fine, and to find out if our 98 is generally ok with the 100 octane map that is most likely on it. Quite often the Japanese run way too much timing in the map on their rom tunes, which may be hard to check without knock ears.

Yeah right ok. The octane 100 ethanol fuel is no good for it either?

Does anyone have a contact for Jesse?

You would probably need the fuel that it was tuned on, and I doubt Japan would mix ethanol into their 100 octane, although they might...

Just google his name, you will find many threads and hopefully one with an email addy. He may charge a small amount to help, but he is a top bloke that has helped me with weird Japanese shit many times before. ((His wife even translated a Kanji ecu wiring diagram for me.) :)

It still won't change the fact you would need to get in on an OZ dyno with the fuel you plan to use to be sure it is safe. Many engines have been destroyed by mines tunes over the years.

You would probably need the fuel that it was tuned on, and I doubt Japan would mix ethanol into their 100 octane, although they might...

Just google his name, you will find many threads and hopefully one with an email addy. He may charge a small amount to help, but he is a top bloke that has helped me with weird Japanese shit many times before. ((His wife even translated a Kanji ecu wiring diagram for me.) :)

It still won't change the fact you would need to get in on an OZ dyno with the fuel you plan to use to be sure it is safe. Many engines have been destroyed by mines tunes over the years.

No worries. Thanks for your help boys. I've emailed Jesse so I'll try and get the info off mines and then put it on the dyno to find out any issues and work out the power output currently.

Hopefully c-red in Perth can do this!

if you need any help over here let me know, ive had a few future m35 buyers come over to to check my car out so the offers there etc.

you have two choices at the moment for tune/dyno:

C-Red in beckenham they will do dyno runs for you no worries, for tunes c-red also do tunes only e-manage at the moment.

Or theres my tuner he does HKS f-con which is what I'm running on.

You could try hyperdrive or PZP but id stick with guys who have had experience on our orphan cars.

you also just missed the first M35 stagea meet i organised in kings park last sunday!!

No worries. Thanks for your help boys. I've emailed Jesse so I'll try and get the info off mines and then put it on the dyno to find out any issues and work out the power output currently.

Hopefully c-red in Perth can do this!

If Jesse is able to get a contact at Mines that can look up their historical tunes, can they pull the info for 27057 as well? :)

if you need any help over here let me know, ive had a few future m35 buyers come over to to check my car out so the offers there etc.

you have two choices at the moment for tune/dyno:

C-Red in beckenham they will do dyno runs for you no worries, for tunes c-red also do tunes only e-manage at the moment.

Or theres my tuner he does HKS f-con which is what I'm running on.

You could try hyperdrive or PZP but id stick with guys who have had experience on our orphan cars.

you also just missed the first M35 stagea meet i organised in kings park last sunday!!

Ahh dude, let me know when the next one is.

Also I might just hit up c-red for the dyno run. They won't be able to do a tune unless I purchase an e-manage or something.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're now in the unrestricted member group so upload away! 
    • TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here.   Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.
    • Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
    • Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).
    • Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
×
×
  • Create New...