Jump to content
SAU Community

The Great Dyno E-Doodle debate

The Mafia

By The Mafia,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the support :devil:

I'm not too worried about top power anyway, that is for those people, like the ones in this thread, riding it like a $2 hooker.

I aim for maximum torque.

Gotta love the fat torque curves..

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

MR331307 Experienced

MR331307

Posted
Posted
thanks for the support :devil:

I'm not too worried about top power anyway, that is for those people, like the ones in this thread, riding it like a $2 hooker.

I aim for maximum torque.

Gotta love the fat torque curves..

I compared my torque for Manual To auto And i made the Torque Earlier and it holds More Consistant througout the rev Range.I didnt lose any torque changing but i lost around 30 RWHP which i can say is pretty good.

MR331307 Experienced

MR331307

Posted
Posted
NO DYNO WILL READ THE SAME REGARDLESS.. they may read close but THATS IT

A DYNO IS A AWESOME TUNING TOOL

the power readings from dynos i would only use to compare upgrades and see wat was worth the cash and wat wasnt..

sure.. if you put a stock v6 commie on a dyno and it pulls 1000hp than there is something majorly wrong..

everything matters with dynos.. how hard they are strapped down.. the tyres the car has.. (shit ones spin so ive found out) also.. BONNET UP OR BONNET DOWN.. recent dyno comp showed a skyline running no bonnet (against shootoutmode rules) and it spun up 500.5hp.. put the bonnet back on and it spun up a measly 435hp.. (i say measly because they were making claims of 700+rwhp before the comp)

meh

are u sure

If u put the Bonnet on it reads more due to Tempertures going up

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
Posted
Been away for three days and ive missed out on all of this. haha.

My 96 r33 made less then 143rwkw with std ecu, fmic, exhaust and avcr @ 10psi..usual crap...couldnt get anymore... Put avcr on and abit more boost, upped to 12psi and i made 166rwkw. So i agree with mafias idea on dynos, and the relevant power figures, seems accurate enough. And drive train losses are about 80hp constant, not a percentage of overall power made.

There definetly is alot of people who have been hanging around the what my old man refers to as 'The dyno tuners for pimple faced kids' who look for nothing more but who has the most outright power with as little mods as possible. Whether that power is accurate or not...who cares. So long as my car has more then yours....i get the extra street cred yeh?

You old boy sounds like mine...

His favourite phrase is, "you can't race a dyno reading...."

rb26s13 Mentor

rb26s13

Posted
Posted
are u sure

If u put the Bonnet on it reads more due to Tempertures going up

needless to say.. bad dyno operator :devil: cars were getting heatsoak like a bitch there was one old school thing that was boiling its tits off when it was eventualy spun up.. but either way it ran less power with the bonnet on..

Fastrotor Proficient

Fastrotor

Posted
Posted (edited)
are u sure

If u put the Bonnet on it reads more due to Tempertures going up

I was at the comp that guy was talking about, and noticed that the DD's air probe was hanging on the side of the cabinet for all the runs i saw.

I should come down to Mackay and have a run with you on palmyra Mafia !

Gary

Edited by Fastrotor
teazn_r33 Mentor

teazn_r33

Posted
Posted (edited)

haha i have no idea lol the dyno is a tunning tool that right

i will bring my car to any drags or dyno comp i have the tourque curve i have the 300+rwkw with a huge amount of torque i will line you up any day i will be running a time as well so you can slam it fair up your arse

you tyhe one that started this bullshit thread all i done was put up a dyno sheet that hasnt being fudge and you still wont belive it

f*k this im goin to get the time slip and the dyno sheet

well i will use a standard ecu to tune it as well and then u can see ill even drive to you to show u

ill film it so you can watch the set up aswell

Edited by teazn_r33
teazn_r33 Mentor

teazn_r33

Posted
Posted

I don't see the appeal, personally. I prefer kicking filthy ricer arse with as little power as possible!

i agress with this guy the dyno is only a tool but its a good tool

and id rather be at the drags kicking arse

the skylines are capable of alot moer that ppl think look at the r33 with 500 or so rwhp on hear on a stock internals motor ??

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
haha i have no idea lol the dyno is a tunning tool that right

i will bring my car to any drags or dyno comp i have the tourque curve i have the 300+rwkw with a huge amount of torque i will line you up any day i will be running a time as well so you can slam it fair up your arse

you tyhe one that started this bullshit thread all i done was put up a dyno sheet that hasnt being fudge and you still wont belive it

f*k this im goin to get the time slip and the dyno sheet

It's posts like these that degrade the quality of threads and make people start fighting over nothing. Seriously someone close this thread already.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

thread closed. it's now just become a waste of space. if anyone really wants to argue the toss i'm happy to re-open and move it to the wasteland where it belongs.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...