Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Hi Guys

I'm a new member, just picked up my silver R32 GTR on the weekend and i've enjoyed every second so far!

However, I think the local constabulary and inspectors might be a little unhappy with the following:

Loud exhaust, 4.5 inch cannon - Kiakamoto system (spelling?) from Cat back.

Wide wheels, NISMO 18x9 (possibly 9.5), they are borderline - tread is under the guard (just) but sidewall is not....

Could anyone possibly help me out with these?

Does anyone know where I might be able to get a 4.5 inch silencer/hotdog/restrictor? I called a few places today and they said the largest silencers they have are 3.5 inch. I would like to try passing it with this exhaust before I try another but just in case...

Does anyone have a stock exhaust I could borrow or rent? (I can pay deposit or something too)

Worst case i'll weld up a crude silencer just to get it through.

I should be able to source wheels but I was just wondering if anyone has been in a similair situation, with the tread under the guard but sidewalls not, if so how'd you go?

Finally do you guys have a prefferred inspection station? Do you have to go through dickson?

My Car

post-37041-1175593960.jpg

Sweet ride dude.

as far as i know, only the tread has to be under the guard, not the sidewall, but in any case, just try with it as is, it may give them something "easy" to fail you on

as for the exhaust, im pretty sure theres a stock one floating around somewhere, or you may be able to get a cat back rego exhaust made up for pretty cheap

you can use a silencer aslong as it is bolted in with the bolt welded. my friend past with his bolted in with a pretty tiny screw the nut on the outside of the tip was welded on so which dickson luckily didnt check so he could just unscrew it :)

Don't be too confident that the authorites don't troll our little forums...it's happened in the past! That'd be my standard 'zorst that's doing the rounds. It's currently on a members' car,and a further member was looking at actually purchasing it at one stage(don't know if he's still interested). yaf28f currently has it,and has my best wishes to use it until all defects/rego is cleared. He's a good fella,who will post it up once it's ready to go again,I'm sure. watch this thread...

Cheers for the fast responses guys. I'll have a bit of a think, might get a quote on a quieter cat back - something I would probably do down the line anyway, its just too loud. However it would be great to have that stock exhaust as a fall back when yaf28f is finished with it. We'll see....

Thanks guys

Hi guys, sorry I have had bits of delay getting my car changed to canberra REGO, things got delayed as my cousin could only work on the car on weekends and there was a big spell of rain ever weekend for awhile, and he recently became a father, I will try to get off my ass this wekeend and next to finish with the exhuast now that weather is better and plenty of spare time over easter.

Once again thanks Jayce for the loan and patience.

cheers

Michael

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys, this is going to be a weird one.

1st, thanks Jayce for the loan of you exhuast, I will return it to Integra automotive as soon as I can borrow my friends station wagon. I manage to get my hand on another exhaust from my cousin. Thanks again for such a long loan.

2nd, anyone have shocks for a R32 GTR that they want to sell or loan? I was getting my drive shaft reconditioned and upper control arms put in, but apparently my bilstein shocks just broke and fell off, haven't had a chance to see my car yet. I will have a look in the for sale forum, but it's always easier getting something locally.

Luck is just not on my side getting my car regoed in canberra :domokun:

cheers guys.

Edited by yaf28f
I was getting my drive shaft reconditioned, but my apparently my bilstein suspension just broke and fell off, haven't had a chance to see my car yet. I will have a look in the for sale forum, but it's always easier getting something locally.

Luck is just not on my side getting my car regoed in canberra :domokun:

cheers guys.

I'd be kicking someone's ass about that. Major brand suspension components don't just "break and fall off" and Bilstiens aren't exactly cheap. Suspension components in particular are designed to take massive amounts of abuse (in the right axis admittedly) and shouldn't just break.

If it wasn't you who made this happen - someone else is paying for it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Its coming up to the time where I need to transfer my car from NSW to ACT. The importers provided me 3 months rego under their name. I bought my 33 with 18"s and TEIN coilovers. *sigh*

I've heard that the laws have changed, again, where the coil overs need to be engineered.. is this correct?

If so, I will need to fork out, I assume, $500+ for that dude to come out and engineer it.

If possible, would it be possible to borrow someone elses stuff? Alot of trouble and fuss.. but I'd rather save the $500+ and put it towards an exhaust. And obviously I would re-imburse the lender with something for the hassle.

I had only heard it was certain coilovers? Maybe it's best to just go and get it inspected? What's the stock r33 wheels size?

I was certain I'd need to get mine engineered with my mods, but luckily enough, I was passed 2nd go. Sometimes your fortunate.

I had only heard it was certain coilovers? Maybe it's best to just go and get it inspected? What's the stock r33 wheels size?

I was certain I'd need to get mine engineered with my mods, but luckily enough, I was passed 2nd go. Sometimes your fortunate.

I've spoken to the head of Dickson rego about coilovers recently and the word from him is that whether a brand of coilovers can be engineered or not depends on whether the manufacturer provides the necessary guarantees that the product meets ADRs. Apparently most manufacturers don't bother and advise that their products are only for track use.

One brand that this guy said he thought were able to be engineered were Tein, so you might be ok Star.

Hi Jayce,

Just letting you know that I have returned your stock R32 exhaust to Integra Automotive. Thanks for the loan again and remind you to shout you some drinks if I ever meet you.

Just to let you guys know about my poor R32 GTR, looks like one of my rear Bilstein shocks had the thread snapped off, I sent it to the Bilstein repairers in Syndey which quote $280 to repair, and they would also need the other rear one to match up, which would cost $560. looks like I'll be looking for a second hand set which would end up cheaper for all 4 than repairing the 2.

My Car has ran into alot of bad luck and it looks like it willl take forever to get in into Canberra rego, damn.

Michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...