Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am sure that theres some really good Performance workshops in victoria that people goto to get certain parts.

So why not help some people out (like myself) who are looking for parts and post some links/contacts to sites/people they may have been to or spoken too (In victoria or close interstate)

And make sure we get some specelised performance places in here as well. eg, places that do headwork, polishers, turbo places, exhaust places, panel beaters/sprayers, part importers, transmission places (For Zdenko, who just thought that 4th gear would look good lying on the road! :shake:), and any other genrals like Car Audio places, good dynos tuning places, and wreckers.

LoL CHeers boys!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12908-performance-workshops-in-vic/
Share on other sites

There is a list down a few pages if u have a look.. its pity there isn't a separate board/page whereby which we can add these sorts of things. Doesn't look like the forums will progress much from being just the forums from what i've seen so far, which is a pity 'cause some areas like this would be really useful.

For all Jap import parts goto:

Centeral Motor Wwreckers 5332 1721

Manual Autos 9466 4499

Both of these guys operate in victoria and both visit japan regulary and have a heap of stock

And turbos, ATP all the way kyp knows his stuff 9569 4764

Anything ells go to Dr Drift

UPI (Ultimate Performance Imports)

www.upimports.com.au

Heard good things about these guys, don't know personally tho. They've got RAWS approval as well, which should be handy. Can get parts, do compliancing, servicing. well. just check the website.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...