Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not interested in changing the turbo atm, just looking to make what i have work.

I was hoping for over 300 but if its not going to get there then im thinking i may as well go back to standard.

log style manifolds are crud

try and find a hks cast low mount manifold. They look stock enough

But then all the intake and dump needs to be made again as it dosnt put the turbo in the factory location.

log style manifolds are crud

try and find a hks cast low mount manifold. They look stock enough

But lets just get back to the requirements at hand for a second…

1. Tight budget – so clearly no $1400 manifold manifold, custom piping, new dump etc

2. As factory as possible appearance

3. No more than 300rwkw

As to wether it’s the best performing setup, giving the best performance etc etc - really is not the question or issue here at all.

So who cares of its “crud”. It’s been proven to work & the stock manifold fits those requirements perfectly.

Lithium is making 300rwkw on a stock manifold with a 3076 .82 internally gated on a 200,000km motor.

Seems to work for him, and drives as smoothly as my 77,000km motor.

He had one of those exact manifolds on his for a while. I think he got it for quite cheap so tried it. Made the car sound pretty awesome, but blew the welds at the flange after a while so went back to the stock.

I think it had something to do with this:

lol

He had one of those exact manifolds on his for a while. I think he got it for quite cheap so tried it. Made the car sound pretty awesome, but blew the welds at the flange after a while so went back to the stock.

How much of a difference was there, both on paper and seat of the pants?

Seat of the pants, basically none - which actually surprised me. The most power I have made on paper was with the stock cast manifold I put back on after the stainless one failed. It SOUNDED like something more serious with the stainless manifold though, which gave an unjustified sensation of speed.

Lol all this talk about 3071/76/35r....

he wants a high flow or a 2530?

Stock manifold is fine...+ heat shields + factory EVERYTHING = you get to smile when you get asked to pop your bonnet..

ummmmmmm 2530??? where did you get that from, i have a 3540!

Lol all this talk about 3071/76/35r....

he wants a high flow or a 2530?

Stock manifold is fine...+ heat shields + factory EVERYTHING = you get to smile when you get asked to pop your bonnet..

It pays to read the whole thread, the first post was 5 years ago, i chose to bring it up again as it has relevant information and was interested to see if there has been any definitive answers gained in the 5 yrs since this was posted, its also relevant in that its the exact same manifolds being talked about today as it was 5 yrs ago when the thread was posted!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...