Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats a load of shit. i had a gates (blue) belt put on. it was noisy, i took it back the the retard who fitted it and told him to re-tension it.

problem solved. never took my car to him again. belt has never made a sound since.

thats a load of shit. i had a gates (blue) belt put on. it was noisy, i took it back the the retard who fitted it and told him to re-tension it.

problem solved. never took my car to him again. belt has never made a sound since.

like I said, IN MOST CASES... not all.. read the post...

  • 2 months later...

Hmm reading through this.....mine whirs like a bitch......now im thinkng the tensioners might need replacing...any one know the part number and or rough price for the whole lot.....i have a gates belt but its the black one.

Andrew

I would suspect the tensioner bearings for the noise first and belt (as in belt not fitting the gears neatly) second, more than likely the warn/loose old belt has reduced the tension on the tensioner bearings etc and now that you have put a new belt on it is highlighting a problem that was already there - due to the extra tension on the bearings. Another thing that may be contributing to the noise could be the extra strength the blue gates belt has/retains over the std belt, to me this would make sense that the belt must be less stretchy than the std and therefore this would also mean the bearings are being submitted to extra tension and cause any wear in them to be more easily noticed.

I have used Gates belts on a few engine rebuilds in the past and never had a problem with any of them. If replacing the bearings doesn't fix the noise and your gears are in good condition(i.e. no obvious damage) then I would be making a complaint to Gates directly, I am sure their engineers would be interested if there was a problem i.e. belts not meshing fully with a cam/crank gear...

  • 4 weeks later...
I have used Gates belts on a few engine rebuilds in the past and never had a problem with any of them. If replacing the bearings doesn't fix the noise and your gears are in good condition(i.e. no obvious damage) then I would be making a complaint to Gates directly, I am sure their engineers would be interested if there was a problem i.e. belts not meshing fully with a cam/crank gear...

There should not be an issue of the Gates belts not fitting in the cam gears. Gates make the majority of OEM timing belts for cars around the world (about 70%) so quality won't be an issue. I tend to agree with the gts4diehard, the racing timing belt is stronger and will not stretch as much as the original. This may mean that it requires a different tension to the original.

I would love to know if anyone has an actual figure of what the tension should be for the timing belt. I have the service manual and it just says something like "tension timing belt to the correct tension". That is pretty usless info as I can't find anywhere what the correct tension is. It has the tensions for the accessories belts but not the timing one.. stupid.

I had my timing belt changed to a gates racing belt by a tuning shop and it hums intermitently. I also had the tensioner, idler, adjustable ex cam gear, and water pump changed at the same time. It is no good that so many people have experienced this.

Edited by Fry_33
  • 2 weeks later...

So some of u r suggesting to throw away a good belt that is brand new and freshly put on the engine... Big deal it makes a bit of a noise. Save urselves the embarressment at lights and sell ur R33 :).. If any1 asks u have a gates timing belt, most of the bogans next to u in the VN commodores would be impressed by that if u bought ur car to impress other ppl. From the read it sounds like it is very common with the gates belts. I am just getting one installed myself by a workshop who use them on track cars... If they were that shit I don't they would be used for track purposes on pretty modded engines.

Liam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...