Jump to content
SAU Community

Gates Timing Belt R33

plaganis

By plaganis,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

thats a load of shit. i had a gates (blue) belt put on. it was noisy, i took it back the the retard who fitted it and told him to re-tension it.

problem solved. never took my car to him again. belt has never made a sound since.

stuartlaw_78 Community Regular

stuartlaw_78

Posted
Posted
thats a load of shit. i had a gates (blue) belt put on. it was noisy, i took it back the the retard who fitted it and told him to re-tension it.

problem solved. never took my car to him again. belt has never made a sound since.

like I said, IN MOST CASES... not all.. read the post...

  • 2 months later...
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Hmm reading through this.....mine whirs like a bitch......now im thinkng the tensioners might need replacing...any one know the part number and or rough price for the whole lot.....i have a gates belt but its the black one.

Andrew

gts4diehard Rising Star

gts4diehard

Posted
Posted

I would suspect the tensioner bearings for the noise first and belt (as in belt not fitting the gears neatly) second, more than likely the warn/loose old belt has reduced the tension on the tensioner bearings etc and now that you have put a new belt on it is highlighting a problem that was already there - due to the extra tension on the bearings. Another thing that may be contributing to the noise could be the extra strength the blue gates belt has/retains over the std belt, to me this would make sense that the belt must be less stretchy than the std and therefore this would also mean the bearings are being submitted to extra tension and cause any wear in them to be more easily noticed.

I have used Gates belts on a few engine rebuilds in the past and never had a problem with any of them. If replacing the bearings doesn't fix the noise and your gears are in good condition(i.e. no obvious damage) then I would be making a complaint to Gates directly, I am sure their engineers would be interested if there was a problem i.e. belts not meshing fully with a cam/crank gear...

  • 4 weeks later...
Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted (edited)
I have used Gates belts on a few engine rebuilds in the past and never had a problem with any of them. If replacing the bearings doesn't fix the noise and your gears are in good condition(i.e. no obvious damage) then I would be making a complaint to Gates directly, I am sure their engineers would be interested if there was a problem i.e. belts not meshing fully with a cam/crank gear...

There should not be an issue of the Gates belts not fitting in the cam gears. Gates make the majority of OEM timing belts for cars around the world (about 70%) so quality won't be an issue. I tend to agree with the gts4diehard, the racing timing belt is stronger and will not stretch as much as the original. This may mean that it requires a different tension to the original.

I would love to know if anyone has an actual figure of what the tension should be for the timing belt. I have the service manual and it just says something like "tension timing belt to the correct tension". That is pretty usless info as I can't find anywhere what the correct tension is. It has the tensions for the accessories belts but not the timing one.. stupid.

I had my timing belt changed to a gates racing belt by a tuning shop and it hums intermitently. I also had the tensioner, idler, adjustable ex cam gear, and water pump changed at the same time. It is no good that so many people have experienced this.

Edited by Fry_33
  • 2 weeks later...
FordyR31 Mentor

FordyR31

Posted
Posted

So some of u r suggesting to throw away a good belt that is brand new and freshly put on the engine... Big deal it makes a bit of a noise. Save urselves the embarressment at lights and sell ur R33 :).. If any1 asks u have a gates timing belt, most of the bogans next to u in the VN commodores would be impressed by that if u bought ur car to impress other ppl. From the read it sounds like it is very common with the gates belts. I am just getting one installed myself by a workshop who use them on track cars... If they were that shit I don't they would be used for track purposes on pretty modded engines.

Liam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...