Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got it from carmate.

they dont come cheap though, lol

Hey mate, can you please tell me if these hods fit good?

Also, can you please send me a link from carmate's website to the same one you got?

Thanks.

Hey mate, can you please tell me if these hods fit good?

Also, can you please send me a link from carmate's website to the same one you got?

Thanks.

I'll be buying one from PSI parts soon... Definitely need a vented bonnet, things are getting very warm.

Well car is now back on the road - in it's run-in tune

Here are some updates of the engine bay and run-in tune.

Engine bay looks tidy. Great power figures for a run in tune. Let us know what it makes when its run in.

just got my coilovers installed by Anth & Alex @ Dahtone Racing :P

BEFORE:

r3311wy9.png

AFTER:

( sorry bout the dodgy camera phone pix :P )

r332yo5.jpg

image038yo3.jpg

r33st3.jpg

r33st3.612b644371.jpg

r333gf3.jpg

exhaust sits 3.5cm off the ground (1/3 of a V can - in this case its a PimpJuice can :lol: ). I will raise the rear end when i take the car out again lol

image044lm5.jpg

but that aside..... it looks hot :)

edit**

just came back from a nice drive, coilovers feel awesome!

going to raise the rear end tomorrow though :(

heres some last pics before it gets raised :)

image042mu9.jpg

image040de1.jpg

so happy with them :D got a smile from ear to ear :D

Edited by McDrifto
McDrifto - love it!

seriously i'd just leave it like that and not ruin it with any bullshit kits or rims

:D

sif leave the stockies on for looks. get some deepdish 16' or 17' if u wanna leave the car at that height. agree bout the kit tho

fark man your rear camber tyre were that low will be awesome... :thumbsup:

heres my nugget yesterday.

got my standard 33 rims back on as they have my semi's (r32 gtst rims painted black for normal driving)

post-24539-1205634603_thumb.jpg

ive decided to save up for some new rims so it sits higher and also i want a CF hood - no crazy body kits here :)

i adjusted the coilovers to the highest possible safe point (left 2cm of tread in the purches/cups) and measured all 4 so they were even lol

the coils themselves are all the way up and cant go any higher... that means it wasnt on the lowest setting yesterday LOL

heres a pic of the car at its highest setting

img0993rx7.th.jpg

:)

what coilovers are they? are they bottoming out at that height?

HSD coilovers with soft spring rate. They dont bottom out and it wasnt on the lowest setting in the previous pics, the ride is smooth!!!

In the previous pics the bottom purches/cups were wound all the way down, the coils themselves were all the way up. The coilovers could of been wound down a lot, which if it was you wouldnt be worrying about bottoming out because your car would be dragging on the floor

Edited by McDrifto

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...