Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi .. ive attached a little video of my oil pressure readings cause sometimes they go all crazy and freak me out.

Ive had the sender unit changed and it had read differently since then but still way off what I think is normal ( which might not be right :D )

The next step is to get an aftermarket guage I guess ...

Anyway plz let me know what u think ...

Oh the video is a little shaky too :D sorry

Max

Video017.wmv

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131088-2-min-video-of-my-oil-guage/
Share on other sites

the pressure seems lower than normally across the entire range.

like when you are idle or moving slow its too low and when you are up near redline (around 5k) its near 3bar i would have expected a little higher. the pressure seems to low to be normal.

does it idle and run ok? i would expect noises, pops, smoke, bangs etc if the pressure was that low. i would also expect an idiot light to come on indicating low oil pressure if it in fact was getting that low (less than 1 bar) according to the guage. ive seen another r32 like this (gtst) and it had no idiot light on but mega low oil pressure. was checked by a mechanic and reported as OK

Yea ive never seen the light come on, usually its never that low and reads how it should i think ... 4bar when cold and then just past the 1st bar when warm. But then all of a sudden it will just drop for 5 mins and then go back to normal, doesnt matter if your stopped or going, totaly random...

It drives perfect hey, got a new exaust and it does backfire lots when slowing down with gears but it runs hard and sounds good hey...

the pressure seems lower than normally across the entire range.

like when you are idle or moving slow its too low and when you are up near redline (around 5k) its near 3bar i would have expected a little higher. the pressure seems to low to be normal.

does it idle and run ok? i would expect noises, pops, smoke, bangs etc if the pressure was that low. i would also expect an idiot light to come on indicating low oil pressure if it in fact was getting that low (less than 1 bar) according to the guage. ive seen another r32 like this (gtst) and it had no idiot light on but mega low oil pressure. was checked by a mechanic and reported as OK

well i guess all u can do is speak to your tuner or mechanic

and go the guage is telling me high and low pressure

maybe something in the internals is shagged or the guage/sender is on crack. best to check to be sure and safe

Yea will do, might get some cash together and get a decent guage too .... suppose ill know then, just that it looks like the guage is faulty to me cause the reading is all over the place, could the oil pressure really be that dogey if the pump is on the way out or something ??

well i guess all u can do is speak to your tuner or mechanic

and go the guage is telling me high and low pressure

maybe something in the internals is shagged or the guage/sender is on crack. best to check to be sure and safe

well it certainly is possible. i just dont know how the engine would react with such low pressure. it could go bang or it could be fine. im not sure. like it might be ok for another week or it could fail in 10 minutes time (if in fact the pressure is true and that low)

mmm that would suck ... haha :D been ok for like 4 months tho .. but u never know :D

yea cool well thanks for ur suggestions Ü

well it certainly is possible. i just dont know how the engine would react with such low pressure. it could go bang or it could be fine. im not sure. like it might be ok for another week or it could fail in 10 minutes time (if in fact the pressure is true and that low)

yep, behaves exactly the same as mine .... I got a gauge man to run some test's and re calibrate it ... He re soldered the circuit's on the rear of the gauge and it worked well for about 3 weeks before it became intermitent again.

Another Mechanic friend made up a test tool and it was fine as per pressure.

Form my small experience with these dodgi oil pressure gauges the red light is the one to watch and worry about.

I would certainly have it tested. Its common for the sender unit to fail, though its also common for the oil pump to literally come apart from the back end which also then shows low oil pressure. we have a Trust gauge at work that we normally hook up to make sure its not the pump. Takes about 20 minutes to test and then you know for sure whats wrong with it

paul i would love to know how low oil pressure = backfiring car/smokey car/banging?! I cant say i've ever seen a connection.

As everyone has suggested it's one of two things. faulty gauge, or genuinely low pressure (could be worn engine, damaged pump, loose backing plate etc etc).

Rather than stuffing around with the factory guage I would guy an aftermarket electronic gauge. Though even having heard all the stories of dud gauges I run a Defi gauge in my GTR and compared to the stock gauge the readings are very close. The main difference is the stock gauge is very, very slow to react where as the Defi is lightening fast. FTR my oil pressure is around 9 bar cold, around 2.3 at warm idle and anywere from 4-7 when driving.

Looks exactly how my guage reads from time to time. Has its bad days and its good. Quite strange how intermittent it is.

I've had mine do this with the old motor since I bought it ~110,000km's, dropped the new motor in and it was exactly the same for another 40,000kms or so.

I had it tested as I also had a oil pressure problem when braking results where its either the sender or the guage.

Mine always works correctly when everything is cold, 15-20mins down the road and it starts playing up 'sometimes'.

When I looks exactly I really mean exactly.. 100% exactly where it sits low and how it reacts and how high it goes when reving. I suspect my issue is the sender as a really quick rev to 5000rpm+ 'sometimes' gets the guage working correctly again.

As I said mines been like this since I bought the car which was 4.5yrs ago.

But do get yours tested, however it is cheaper to simply buy an elec guage. They are not that expensive.

If possible do a little test for me...

Drive at 80-100km/h and really hit the brakes to stop as quick as possible.

What the oil guage as you do so... Mine for some strange reason stops working, the needle drops to 0 and the red oil light comes on. As I said above I've had it tested with a seperate oil pressure guage and it reads normal meanwhile the std drops to 0. :D

Those defi guages look so damn nice... I just couldn't bring my self to paying the price.

I know the speco guages don't appear to look any where near as nice but from what I've seen they all sit smack on the 0 when off. Unlike some of the others I've seen and read about even that are a little off from factory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...