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First issue to resolve is whether you want the benefits and can afford the cost of a BB highflow. Otherwise speak with Slide about his plain-bearing units. There is also the issue of straight bolt-up kits as Roy indicated.

Check out my thread relating to Garrett based high flow for how they fit up to RB series engines. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127600 Essentially the same to fit up whether RB20 or 25. It therefore comes down to deciding on the spec that is right for you.

Do have a plan and work out what you actually want – there will be a big difference in transient response between a unit that can realistically deliver 200 or 230 or 260rwkW. Size the unit according to what you want, can use, and can afford.

In your case, there are three cartridges I see as worth a serious look if you went the Garrett BB high flow route.

446179-12. From my understanding, probably the same as HKS 2510. 60mm comp in 60T, 53.0mm turbine in 62T

446179-51. This one appears the same as HKS 2530. 60mm comp in 62T, 53.8mm turbine in 76T

446179-31. One size down from HKS GT-RS. 71mm comp in 48T, 53.8mm turbine in 76T; I used this cartridge with the RB25

The -12 cartridge will probably be closest in feel to the factory turbo, and obviously the -31 the least. They are all going to be good streetable matches to your RB20, offering quick response. I couldn’t see any of them getting over 230rwkW. The biggest difference amongst them performance-wise is likely to be found in the 76T turbine which I think will offer a greater flow potential and drive efficiency – more power up high, and excellent lower end shaft torque for good boost response.

Suggestion: look at the -51 cartridge, and use the 0.60 A/R comp cover. Then have the RB20 turbine housing machined to fit. Not quite a HKS but will give excellent response and good power. I think it will run out of puff at between 210-220rwkW.

In the end its about having realistic expectations, definite ideas about application, and a budget.

cheers

ok budget doesnt really matter to me if im happy in the end im only buying a new turbo once

i already have a new manifold from racespec its a 43mm 3mm thick stainles low mount

i would probably rather just buy a suitable turbo rather than stuff around getting one hi flowed but i dont know if its better to hi flow i will do it

i need to know what turbo's i can use for this sort of power and when they will come on boost

what would be quick i dont really want too much top end its not needed

im still confused but im learning i read heaps of other posts still

please Help

Yes I was thinking the same thing Roy . There was a recent string where someone used a HKS GT-RS on an RB20 and got similer performance to you but with std manifold and integral waste gate . It may have used slightly less boost - can't remember . Can't emphasise enough - that HKS turbine housing ie the T3 flanged one from the RB specific 2530/2540 and GT-RS makes it all easy because it bolts to T3 flanged manifold and uses std Skyline dump pipe flange . To have any hope of it looking std (cops/RTA) need this housing or a modified std RB20 or 25 or VG30 housing .

At the end of the day his stainless manifold may not gain him much for the cost and agro involved . No cop (even Dickless Tracy) will miss it . If I had to have one on an RB20 it would have been T28 flanged and got around the major flange size drama with GT28 turbos .

All of this comes back to how much the individual can afford to spend .

Roy and the GT-RS user would be the ones to ask how high performance turbos affect the RB20DETs bottom end squirt .

Probably O/T but I'd go the RB25DET route because there more torque to start with and they look/fit pretty much the same I'm told . 230 in a nice state of tune from a 25 is not rocket science .

Cheers A .

My understanding is the t518z is a trick bolt on turbo upgrade for the GTR ad SR20 using a T25/28 flange.

They do make this turbo for the Rb20/25, but it goes by a different name. The T518Z is essentially a TD05-18G (well thats my understandign anyway)

You may be able to find one with a T3 Flange, but typically those that i have seen with T3 flanged have had horrible dump/wastegate arrangements. So really need to stick with the normal 3 bolt Mistubishi flange.

If you can afford the expense of proper manifold and gate i would go a TD06-20G or 2835. If you want to retain the std manifold i would try a GT-RS. If i was happy to use 2nd hand then i would look at 2510/2530/2535, whatever you can find at the time.

If you do have a 2.5" exhaust, its not a problem. Make sure its mandrel bent, and free of restriction and itll probably do better some of those restricted 3"s out there cause theyre so loud. "Maximum boost" rekons you can easily flow 400hp (read more than 400, i think it was closer to 450 but i have left my book at home in oz so cant quote) with 2.5" and doubt with a 2530 or the other turbos talked about here will make this. People need to stop thinking 3" is the all and one all size.

If i was happy to use 2nd hand then i would look at 2510/2530/2535, whatever you can find at the time.

My RB20DET with the 2530 seemed to leave you with a smile on your face. RB20 POWAH!

Honestly I think you need to drive a few of those cars in mildly modified form to get an idea of the real world result . I would be conservative with an RB20 because being 2000cc or roughly 330cc pots they have the greatest scope for lack of torque where they are driven most of the time ie 1000-3500 . They need reasonable gas speed on the exhaust side at sane revs or will fall flat on their face because theres no velocity with which to drive the turbine/compressor rotating group .

If your prepared to bias the useful power range upwards thats fine but it then needs short rear gears and a close ratio box to keep it in the rev range where it wants to work properly . I guess its feels sort of like the motorbike scenerio - lots of revs or no squirt which is tiresome in a road car .

There is an upgrade path to a degree with the std Hitachi turbos so if on a budget you could maybe shop around and buy a few cheap bits to optomise the drive result to your liking . It probably won't get you 230-260 Kw but its a practical and economic way to experiment without owing you much brass . As Cubes could tell you there is one version of the RB20 ceramic BB turbo thats esentially an early RB25DET turbo with smaller compressor and turbine housings . If yours is like this you could buy and fit the RB25 housings (plenty of 2nd hand housings out there where people have oversped their turbos) . I hear good results of the RB25 turbo upgrade and its cheap if you buy for the right price . Provided everything else (inc a really good tune) is good the performance should be fair for the outlay .

If you go away from standardish bits the whole fitting business becomes a pain . As was mentioned HKS do model specific kits from mild to wild but they bolt up easily and the results are known . Other options such as Garretts generic BB turbos lead you into a grey area where the results are only known if you can try another car with a specific set of parts . Changing any associated part alters the effect and its a case of playing Russan roulett (SP ?) with your hard earned dollar .

If it were me and I had a bit of money to spend Id think about either the GCG Hi Flow or HKS's GT2530 or GT2535 or GT-RS . The people who know can vouch for any of these turbos and the low end power is not terrible . If you get brave and go the GT2835 Pro S or one of the GT30 based turbos you will start to lose some low down go - how much you can accept is only known to you .

Your call .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

This thread is starting to get the feel of throwing out grain to the chooks and watch them come in...

After comments about all the direct bolt-up units, out comes something from left field that just doesn't make sense. Doesn't seem like much has been achieved by people contributing. Have you inquired with any sellers eg. GCG, Hpinabox, MTQ, Turbo Aust, Slide, etc etc.

Have you searched existing threads at any length?

Here's something about the Mitsubishi units on RB20, took 10 seconds to find:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=td05+rb20

I'm out of this one now, but agree with discopotato03 that if you want bottom end torque and response then go the route of cubic capacity. Otherwise virtually any of the units suggested will give good (but slightly different) results on RB20.

cheers

I run an Apexi AX53B70 P25 on my RB25..the response is better than a RB25 highflow and according to the tuner it would be a good turbo for an RB20..just another one added to the mix for your research :D

I understand people want 220+rwkw, but let me say that 200+rwkw with 500-1000rpm less lag is much better for the street, its cool for a car that has 20rwkw more power but for driving around on the street the lag is killer in a internally standard rb20... torqueless bugger!

Id go something abit smaller (2510 or so) and enjoy the responce you'll get from it plus big boost levels and decent power (200-220rwkw) >_<

This is a personal opinion from someone who's gone slighty bigger with abit more lag on the rb20, ill be gettin some cams n headwork n maybe stroke it abit to get some of the lag down!

Edited by jazza08

ok i understand what you's mean and yes i have reasearched a bit but im only new and im still trying to understand all of it but you guys have helped me heaps

its hard to know what will run well with what i have

but any way i will keep you posted when i start fitting everything in two weeks

im running a s2 rb25 turbo on my rb20... and set at 12psi which is good 4 a 13.2 pass on street tyres

with a intank walbro pump, fmic with custom pumpin, 3in turbo bak wit spilt dump and no cat... pod filter, bov, oil cooler kit.... still got stock ecu, injectors, coil paks

25 turbo's r got mild step up 4 $$$..... but u got urself a good platform there and hi-flowing a 25 turbo is a good idea.... but in saying that u could buy somthing slighty bigger 4 da price..!!!

anyways good luck with it!!!!

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