Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercoolers...the Bigger, The Better!

tezflow

By tezflow,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tezflow Rising Star

tezflow

Posted
Posted

Hows it goin fellas, the time has come when i got enough cash to get a front mount for the 33. I was just about to buy a kit off the net until a mate reminded me about what our high school science teacher (a retired mechanical engineer who built HIMSELF a 10sec s2 rx7) once said... when it comes to intercoolers just get a truck cut, the bigger the core the better!

So does anyone agree or disagree? should i join our VLT brothers and get a nice big truckcut cooler???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132210-intercoolersthe-bigger-the-better/
Share on other sites
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted
Hows it goin fellas, the time has come when i got enough cash to get a front mount for the 33. I was just about to buy a kit off the net until a mate reminded me about what our high school science teacher (a retired mechanical engineer who built HIMSELF a 10sec s2 rx7) once said... when it comes to intercoolers just get a truck cut, the bigger the core the better!

So does anyone agree or disagree? should i join our VLT brothers and get a nice big truckcut cooler???

No I certainly DONT agree . Truck intercoolers use tubes with large passages for very high mass flow . If you look at OEM performance intercoolers used on cars such as the later Evo Lancers and the GTR's you'll see that the flat passages are not as deep as your typical Louisville core . From what I'm told the aim is to slow the charge air sufficiently so that enough time is availabe for the core material to absorb the heat in the air passing through it . The function of an intercooler is to transfer heat while posing the minimum flow restriction . If the air speed is too high through the IC's tubes it will not reject the heat generated by the compressor .

The design of the end collectors is also very important , you want the incoming air to easily access all the tubes and to be ducted into the outlet with the minimum constriction . Have a look at the IC chapter in Corky Bells book Maximum Boost , the diagrams should put you on the right track . Don't forget to leave some airflow for the engines radiator core .

Cheers A .

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

yeah a truck core is bad. an ideal model would be a 450x60x300

that why its not a stupid truck / vl turbo 700x300x90 core which is just too big and youll have sucky throttle response.

Munna1 Proficient

Munna1

Posted
Posted

Truck cores are simply designed for that trucks as stated above the airflow characteristics are completely different e.g. truck revs to 4000rpm street car 7000rpm+.

Bigger is not always better, the bigger you the more throttle response you loose get a intercooler matched to you application if you don’t plan on upgrading the your stock turbo a R34 GTT intercooler is you best bet.

Read this page for more information

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTS25T.htm

cheers

infected flow Rising Star

infected flow

Posted
Posted
Truck cores are simply designed for that trucks as stated above the airflow characteristics are completely different e.g. truck revs to 4000rpm street car 7000rpm+.

Bigger is not always better, the bigger you the more throttle response you loose get a intercooler matched to you application if you don’t plan on upgrading the your stock turbo a R34 GTT intercooler is you best bet.

Read this page for more information

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTS25T.htm

cheers

I have an arc i/c for $1500..hahaha :(:):O:(:banana:

Fixxxer Community Regular

Fixxxer

Posted
Posted

Discopotato is right on the money. I guess what you are looking for is a IC that is a compromise between its size and also it's efficiency (thermal and restriction) for a given application.

Look, you can buy cheap aftermarket car IC's everywhere these days that offer (well state) good thermal efficiency with low pressure losses. Gone are the days when a truck IC was the only cheap alternative.

Fixxxer

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted (edited)
Truck cores are simply designed for that trucks as stated above the airflow characteristics are completely different e.g. truck revs to 4000rpm street car 7000rpm+.

not quite. depending on the truck will depend on how they rev, but most rev under 3000rpm. and most trucks are about 10L motor, and pump out HUGE amounts of air (the turbo's are huge) so the big tubes in a truck cooler are good for that amount of air, but not the tiny amount (in comparison) of air you are wanting to push.

the common size cooler for a r33 is 600x300. thats the size that the hybrid and most others come in.

Edited by mad082
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

would you use truck tyres? or a truck steering wheel? no because those parts are clearly designed for a truck, not a high performance passenger car. the same is true for their intercoolers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...