Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With 300rwkw on a RB25 you are starting to exeed what you would call safe limits of the engine internals people have run more power than this with stock internals but you may find reliability to be a problem.

Also what is the aim for the car street, track, drift, drag? If it where a street car and it where me than id rather a 250-270rwkw car with exelent reponse and very little lag rather than a peaky 300rwkw (keep that in mind when it comes to turbo selection).

A HKS PRO S kit should be consitored as it bolts onto the standard manifold, dump pipe ect (saves you money in the long run). Still responsive and 300rwkw is possible with cams.

Check out the R33 GTS25T tuning guide on the skyline website in my sig for more information on supporting mods etc.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133369-i-want-300rwkw/#findComment-2472803
Share on other sites

as far as mods go i just imported it and it is as stock as it can be. the only thing that isnt stock is the exhaust which i have sitting at home for it (putting on this weekend) that is a kakimoto 3" that is turbo back whole lot.

price guide: up to like 8-10g max over a 12month period, possibly doing most of the work myself. ive had high Kw cars before but never a turbo.

250-270rwKw car with high response would probably be more desirable. coming from a VT SS 5.7lt with 327rwKw its a big change for me so i would like as much power with good response.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133369-i-want-300rwkw/#findComment-2473785
Share on other sites

Cheapest way to do it, sell the car and buy something that has already been built and is putting out the power figures you are looking for. As you probally already know modifying a car yourself is never cheap.

yeh i figured it wouldnt be cheap but atleast i can justify to myself that its been done my way and to perfection, plus other cars that are highly modified are always either thrashed or owned by p-platers. no thanks. thats the reason i bought a stock R33, intentions to mod.

post-31466-1157761593.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133369-i-want-300rwkw/#findComment-2476150
Share on other sites

yeh i figured it wouldnt be cheap but atleast i can justify to myself that its been done my way and to perfection, plus other cars that are highly modified are always either thrashed or owned by p-platers. no thanks. thats the reason i bought a stock R33, intentions to mod.

Get a decent intercooler, engine management, and you should see around 250rkw. think about the turbo (steel exhaust turbine + re-build) should up it to 280ish rkw. and then the cams, if u want that 300 minimum, before even opening the engine up.

I think thats fair. But, pls correct me if im wrong.....?

Depends what u mean by cheap? That depends on who you trust to do a god job.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133369-i-want-300rwkw/#findComment-2476957
Share on other sites

GTR with mods....

I was thinking of modifying my car (still am thinkining) but i added up the costs and I nearly fainted....BAsically, if you got money and you want uniquness then go for it...

Thats the problem - the money. Id say dont rush in to it, save up do the research and get the best bang for your buck....(which is what im doing now)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133369-i-want-300rwkw/#findComment-2477624
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...