Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

aight ppl i was being stupid - hit boost suddenly in the wet around a corner - and hve suffered the consequences. luckily i didnt injur anyone but my car's not looking good.

destroyed my front bar, left headlights fully shattered, fender bent, and bonnet slightly warped. it looks like its just cosmetic damage and there isnt anything else wrong with how the car operates (as far as i can c) i need it fixed and soon.

just wanted to any suggestions u guys can give on panelbeaters/repairers in the SE melb area. did a couple searches but all the results are kinda older can anyone tell me if theyr still valid or wat.

pics will b up soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133797-crashed-my-car-need-help/
Share on other sites

Dude bad luck...

Unfortunately we learn from our mistakes...

I know it's not close but:

Gal Smash in Tullamarine is the place to go....

9330 3137 - Speak to Dave

Tell him you know Matt...

I had an accident in my line and he fixed it for me... Im also SE area but went over and saw him and he did a Mint job...

Good Luck with the repairs....

ya those guys are good.

I'm in the east and these guys called Graeme Cuthbert Automotive fixed up my line...did a great job and some custom things under insurance.

They are in Box hill and typically only do euro cars for Just Cars and AAMI.

Good guys really helped me out with special requests.

thanx for the replies guys. anyone else got any info?

i read on these forums that a place called the palm or somthing in moorabbin was ment to be good. but that was like 2 or 3 yrs bak. i know its not that long but can anyone confirm this?

thanx again

any ways here r pics of the result

anDru: nah man i hit in croydon..droppin off the gf home at about 2am

BUMP

whate eva u do dont take it to cpr automotive in dandenong, nufn but shit work and i learnt the hard way

thanks 4 the warnin bro. does any one know how much a bonnet, fender, complete head light, front bar (after market) and the front section of the inner wheel arch are gonna cost to replace? and do u guys rekon there mite be more damage or do u need betta pics?

c'mon ppl i really need to find some repairer whos gunna tak care of my car. i dont know any one personally whos had a skyline need repairs and i dont know whos good with these cars and whos not. i need to access the great fount of knowledge that is this forum. :( (flattery i know but its worth a try rite?)

some help plz

btw thanx 2 those who did help

Edited by Basti

ok oops......just read that thread by inark detailing contacts for wreckers, performance shops etc>_<.

here it is

Performace/import/automotive Related Links**updated 15/7**

its got almost everything i want. only thing missing is ppls opinions on these places. so wile i feel a tad idiotic id still like some feed back on any of these places or others ppl may have experience wit

i was insured by just cars and they sent my car to Classic Panels in dandenong.

they did a good job....spotless cant tell anything....except there were a few things like door not closing properly but it was just a clip :laugh:

EuroImage In Cheltenham is my choice , but they are expensive.

I got them to respray a new commodore i had before my Skyline with GM picking up the tab, very good job.

My Mate George has a very good reputation there,

worth a quote.

thanks for the replies guys. will chek these places out as soon as i am able.

just cars also sent me to Berwick Ultrafinish. they look very proffesional and were very thorough in looking over the car. has any one dealt with these guys before? r they as gud as they seem?

DONT take it to coolstore panels in croydon. I took my car there and they f**ked up the colour, didn't deliver in the time frame they gave me. Never once called me back when they said they would. The lady was a total b!tch to me and when I complained about the colour they didn't want to know about it. They had my money thats all they cared about. Also cracked some plastic bits inside the car.

Phil munday panel works in kilsyth are pretty good I think. Ph: 9725 4111

Edited by Ricey

The good thing is with Just Cars im pretty sure if u take it to a beater they recommend it has a lifetime warranty, so if somethings not 100% theyll re do it.

Ive got a whole R33 front end if your interested?

(Headlights, aftermarket f/bar, fenders and vented bonnet(legal!)

Gal Smash in Tullamarine is the place to go....

9330 3137 - Speak to Dave

Tell him you know Matt...

Mate i stand by this guys work...

seen him fix a repairable write off and it looks MINT!!!!!

i totally agree with matt here

Gal fixed my car when i smashed it in April.

I could go in there and see it anytime i wanted and Dave went out of his way for me heaps.

My car came back looking better than it did when i first brought it and im over the moon with what a top job they did on it.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...