Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Every 5k for me, the car is a turbo, its old, every 5k oil change that costs $70 can maintain the engine and save me a $1500+ rebuild....

Oil is oil, your engine loves the fresh stuff, imagine it like this...

Every 5k - a shower a day

every10k - a shower every 2 days.....

i dont wana smell :laugh:

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The manual says 5000k's for a turbo's oil change and 10000k's for oil filters.

Totally insane to run new oil through a 5000k old filter that costs all of $10.00??????

No matter what, I never go near 5000k's, always less, and I do filters at 2500k's max with a top up to bring the dipstick level correct.

Anyone going to 10k's is just begging for lash adjuster problems.

The manual says 5000k's for a turbo's oil change and 10000k's for oil filters.

Totally insane to run new oil through a 5000k old filter that costs all of $10.00??????

No matter what, I never go near 5000k's, always less, and I do filters at 2500k's max with a top up to bring the dipstick level correct.

Anyone going to 10k's is just begging for lash adjuster problems.

Yikes, Im waiting for a new slogan: 5000 Kms is too much!!! Change at 1000 Km!!!

Why change the filter at 2,000km. If it really is full of junk at that stage, your engine has serious issues. Good quality filters are good for 10,000km.

Because I'm an old fart, been there done that etc.

I also know that with a blocked filter and even on cold start up, your system will run on by-pass quite happily re-circulating all the crap.

I advise anyone with the 10K filter mindset to cut up the occassional filter.

The cheapest insurance you'll ever get is a $10 oil filter.

Well I'm not here to tell people what to do but I reckon 2,000km changes is overkill! Yes a filter will go into bypass if its full of junk but as I mentioned, unless the engine has issues, a filter should not be full by 2,000km. Even then if the filter is plugged, by cutting it up you can't see anything anyway. Also when a filter goes into bypass, the debris is embedded into the media (unless you got chunks of metal!) so it shouldn't be going anywhere. Sorta like dipping a dirty shirt in a bucket of water.. the dirt just doesnt 'wash off' sorta thing.

yeah Busky2k is correct. 2k is actually worse than 10k...it wont start working for a while and not filter stuff properly as its being bypassed.

there is a lot of technical threads about how the filter works and why longer is better than shorter.

As for the whole 5k OCI...if u use a 300V or Redline ester based oil...again ur not letting the adatives do their thing...and hence just wasting valuable money. if ur gonna do it 5k under normal driving conditions just use a cheep oil.

Myth Busters needs a call on these..useing 10k OCIs on my car with redline, you should see how clean it is...no crud at all.

read this great info from BITG.

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lub...on-oilpart4.htm

Cheers for the feedback guys, seems to me a majority of you guys change it at 5000km due to "better safe then sorry" saying. I guess Ill probably change it at 10000km and then 5000 and see how it goes since theres no hardcore evidance that you need to change it every 5000.

every ~5,000 or 6 months.. depending how i've been driving.. I only do 10k km's a year.. so it's easy!!..

there is more hardcore evidence that 10k + OCIs with good oil and a good filter is better than 5k...if ur concerned do a UOA on your oil and see how its going and dont guess....

  • 3 weeks later...

Is the Motul & Redline stuff really that good that you can get double the kays of other brands??? Seems a little optimistic to me. I may have to try it out just to see.

Think I'll be going a K&N filter if I do it though, not overly happy with the standard nissan filter. Started having major lifter rattle 1 day for several minutes after start up, was never a problem with the ryco's like that. Car's only done 4000 kays on the filter & oil (Elf Excellium 5W-50)

fully synthetic oils these days last much longer than mineral or semi synth oils. I don't recommend it, but you can probably leave it longer than 10,000 and still be protecting your engine properly.

I change my oil every 4,000kms or 6 months in a car that sees mostly track work these days. I also use genuine nissan oil filters, they are like $12-13

u shouldnt expect that when u first imported it, it was fresh oil either. when i got mine i changed the oil first thing, before i started using it.

but yea i have to agree with most, depends how u drive it, or how much u care about ur engines wear and tear.

i change mine every 2-4k and i drive it easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...