Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From www.drive.com.au

The Sportivo looks sensational (lots borrowed from Lexus) (production version)

06AurionLL-01_L7_m.jpg

06AurionLL-019_L_m.jpg

06AurionLL-022_L_m.jpg

Base a bit hard to swallow:

06AurionLL-064atx_L_m.jpg

More pics

http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleD...articleID=20878

From Drive.com.au

-The 336Nm of torque isn't available until right up at 4700rpm, so our initial brief evaluation uncovered that it isn't overloaded with effortless low-down performance

-Left to its own devices in "D" for Drive, the six-speed isn't always as smart as it needs to be, often too eager to shift up a gear in hilly, twisty terrain. It's not long before it's jumping back down a ratio or two to keep the large sedan motoring along.

-Despite claims of sportiness, the Aurion is more adept at cruising rather than enthusiastic driving.

-The steering can sometimes feel a bit numb and get some mild kickback on very bumpy corners. The seats could also do with more lateral support, something forthcoming on only the Sportivo models.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sportivo ZR6 $42k thats almost XR6 Turbo playing field! I wonder what sort of power its got?

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sportivo ZR6 $42k thats almost XR6 Turbo playing field! I wonder what sort of power its got?

I think that's the rumoured supercharged V6 they've been going on about

If they're going to throw a supercharged V6 Camry looking FWD thing into the market and expect it to make a huge dent in the sales of XR6 Turbos and SV6 Commodores then they've got another think coming if you ask me

Make a rwd, 6 speed manual with a ... 3jzgte (3 for greater than 3 litre; ie 4 Litre :O:):P) Make it weigh less than 1400 kg, and cost less than its competitors, and i will buy the first 50,000. Ps Has to look Sh!t hot, and have a coupe variant.

Also, V config engines are gay. Straight config engines are straight :rofl:

Edited by Mulkers

Have you seen this thing on the road.

The rear tail-light look like they are on the outside of the car. :O

It is just another washing -machine wanting to be a Plasma TV.or sorry LCD Screen.

But hey Toyota's sell even if they look ok....people buy them for their reliability.

I think though this is to steep if they are asking 40K plus for something FWD and no Turbo

that is medium in size.

If they made it AWD like the Subarus they would sell shit loads :P

... the FWD aspect kills it

Whats Toyotas problem anyway... why fight the system?

Just make it RWD and everybody will be happy

There are a few Large RWD Japanese cars by Nissan (Fuga) and Toyota (Mark X) etc that would scare Holden/Ford into solely making Taxi's. The only trouble is they aren't specced as lowly as the Commondore and Falcon, and by the time they got here, the base bare-bones models (if they existed) would be mid $30K range... not price competitive.

Wow, never knew about the Mark X before:

http://www.mark-x.com/

I'd buy it!

well if all goes to plan they'll be eligible for import in the next year :( That, and the Gloria/Cedric/Cima combo from Nissan... unfortunately none of these cars appeal to the common buyer in australia because they're not "locally sold"... but if you compare em to the garbage thats sold locally they're leagues ahead. Shame really.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...