Jump to content
SAU Community

  

126 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I have not driven 350rwhp car Ive been in 1 with 430rwhp..

just to clarify..the 500rwhp is a part time...I'm choosing ECU with 2 map memory to switch back...500 is only for dyno..just the figures..normal driving, I'd stick with 350...

the efficiency curve for 500rwhp with a GT35 is crap, I think boost kicks in about 4000-4500 rpm....

no boost

no boost

no boost

no boost

suddenly

kabaam...

bang..crash and die..

I voted for 500rwhp because I value performance over bling. My old 33 made a touch over 400rwhp but looked like a lowered stocker with cooler, tinted windows and 17s.

As long as the car is tidy, give me stock body/interior over white leather, neons, stereo, massive wings and the like. My personal preference is for understated before an enormous body kit.

I had 350rwhp & now it's been rebuilt with forgies, gtr rods etc so it's a bit of both. That said I don't really want a sound system & better rims aren't a necessity for me.

All go no show for me (except under teh bonnet)

Yeah im with the go for 500rwhp

even though i have a 300rwhp car, but its gettin tuned to go to 350rwhp

next week.

Just depends what you like doing.

Like cruising around listenin to ya tunes fairly loud, and still being able to go pretty quick.

Or, have a car that can pull 11's down the quarter, have a feeling that you could beat anyone on the street that annoys you.

M preference is 500rwhp, just sounds like a bigger archievement, then nice wheels,nice interior and a sound system.

All comes back to, are you trying to pull chicks, or trying to pull yaself from sinking into the seat.

sound system haha what a f**king joke? what idiot spends 10,000 on a sound system (im sorry but it is just stupid), maybe so other pedestrians can listen to ur rap/dance music? rims are good once you have the power to get it all down to the ground. i would hands down go the rebuild for 500rwhp. without a doubt.

Muscle car... equals http://www.kerbeck.com/kerbeck/kerbeck.nsf...LE/DSC05872.jpg

If i could afford this 10k on a rebuild would be the least of my problems. Altogether now 427 cubic inches ;)

18" wheels and bright leather interiors are good for some, but if its going to be a cool show/cruiser then this is where its at ;)

1932-Ford-Red-n-f-pipes-le.jpg

Imports are good for cheap performance, if you want cool you should have stolen your grandfathers car ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...