Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just put a hi-flow turbo on my 33, and am experiencing a lot of lag.

I haven't had time to get a dyno-tune yet, not sure if this will reduce the lag at all?

I'm looking to install a Power FC with the Boost Controller built in, will this upgrade help to reduce turbo lag?

Thanks for any advice...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139672-hi-flow-turbo-lag/
Share on other sites

If your still using the stock ECU then most certainly.

The fuel/ignition maps etc are not really designed for the turbo you are using.

A full ECU/Tune will do wonders for the car... it might not fix it all, as some hi-flows are just shocking designs and the wheel choices nothing short of crap... but give the tune a go and see what come of it

pre-load on the wastegate might need to be checked.

good suggestion, ive had that problem before... wastgate looked shut but was actually loose so it could open a couple mm without any boost signal.

boost and ecu should make a world of difference even if the above isnt the case.

I thought the first thing anyone would ask is what highflow is it?! :)

How can you check the pre-load on the wastegate?

It's a Sliding Performance hi-flow, journal bearing, but not that $890 special, its something Aaron has put together with much bigger compressor and exhaust wheels.

I think i should install an ECU, say the PowerFC, and install a boost controller, than take it for a tune! That should solve all my problems!

Yeah if it's one of Slides it'll be fine after about 1000km of driving once the bearing has been broken in. My one was the same, massive lag, then bang to redline. After 2 weeks it had loosened up nicely :)

Don't get the car tuned until it's done this, or you'll just be wasting time and money.

the bearings need to 'wear' in?

thats pretty wierd, aren't they balanced and run up on the machine to a few thousand rpm anyway? normal hiflows don't need to be run in do they?

No highflow factory turbo should make full boost by 5000rpm, the only time i have seen that is when the wastegate flap was not fully closed as other's have mentioned wastegate preload...

You would think that alomost ever turbo would have to ware in a little bit but not enough to cause that sort of lag???

Are these turbos ball bearing?

on the topic of wastegates and stuff.. i got a hks 2535 with a adjustable wastegate actuator thingy i think.. in the middle of the arm theres like a bolt that you can move. if i made it tighter or looser what affect would that have on the lag / boost etc ??

on the topic of wastegates and stuff.. i got a hks 2535 with a adjustable wastegate actuator thingy i think.. in the middle of the arm theres like a bolt that you can move. if i made it tighter or looser what affect would that have on the lag / boost etc ??

Yes it is to adjust the tension on the wastegate flap...

If you extend the rod longer it will open the flap a little or depening on how much you go and it will be very slow to make boost...

If you wind the rod in past the point were its got more tension on the wastegate flap holding it closed for longer as the RPM comes up, results in higher boost level.

So the best spot is usally hold the flap closed with your hand adjusted the rod so you have to only pull it a little bit so it holds firm tension on the wastegate arm...

Than using a boost controller to adjust for more boost.

Hope that helps.

i remember when the turbo was off the car i couldnt move the wastegate arm thingy at all with 2 hands.. it was realy tight, if thats good or bad ?? the stock one was heaps easier, you could actualy move it

so i shorten the arm thingy to make it spool faster ?? if i play with it and my cars been tuned will it stuff up the tune ??

thanks for ur help :laugh:

Anyone else see a problem here?

running a bigger turbo on stock management/ecu/injectors/fuel pump can be a real recipe for disaster.

Get management sorted, get it on a dyno and check your AF ratios are correct BEFORE you boost your car - unless you have enough spare cash around for a rebuild/engine swap

i remember when the turbo was off the car i couldnt move the wastegate arm thingy at all with 2 hands.. it was realy tight, if thats good or bad ?? the stock one was heaps easier, you could actualy move it

so i shorten the arm thingy to make it spool faster ?? if i play with it and my cars been tuned will it stuff up the tune ??

thanks for ur help :laugh:

What boost do you get when running just actuator?

If the wastegate flap is hard up against the back of the turbo and the arm has to be streched a little bit to hook on than thats were you want it, and thats the fastest the turbo will spool, making it tighter again will give you more boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...