Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just put a hi-flow turbo on my 33, and am experiencing a lot of lag.

I haven't had time to get a dyno-tune yet, not sure if this will reduce the lag at all?

I'm looking to install a Power FC with the Boost Controller built in, will this upgrade help to reduce turbo lag?

Thanks for any advice...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139672-hi-flow-turbo-lag/
Share on other sites

If your still using the stock ECU then most certainly.

The fuel/ignition maps etc are not really designed for the turbo you are using.

A full ECU/Tune will do wonders for the car... it might not fix it all, as some hi-flows are just shocking designs and the wheel choices nothing short of crap... but give the tune a go and see what come of it

pre-load on the wastegate might need to be checked.

good suggestion, ive had that problem before... wastgate looked shut but was actually loose so it could open a couple mm without any boost signal.

boost and ecu should make a world of difference even if the above isnt the case.

I thought the first thing anyone would ask is what highflow is it?! :)

How can you check the pre-load on the wastegate?

It's a Sliding Performance hi-flow, journal bearing, but not that $890 special, its something Aaron has put together with much bigger compressor and exhaust wheels.

I think i should install an ECU, say the PowerFC, and install a boost controller, than take it for a tune! That should solve all my problems!

Yeah if it's one of Slides it'll be fine after about 1000km of driving once the bearing has been broken in. My one was the same, massive lag, then bang to redline. After 2 weeks it had loosened up nicely :)

Don't get the car tuned until it's done this, or you'll just be wasting time and money.

the bearings need to 'wear' in?

thats pretty wierd, aren't they balanced and run up on the machine to a few thousand rpm anyway? normal hiflows don't need to be run in do they?

No highflow factory turbo should make full boost by 5000rpm, the only time i have seen that is when the wastegate flap was not fully closed as other's have mentioned wastegate preload...

You would think that alomost ever turbo would have to ware in a little bit but not enough to cause that sort of lag???

Are these turbos ball bearing?

on the topic of wastegates and stuff.. i got a hks 2535 with a adjustable wastegate actuator thingy i think.. in the middle of the arm theres like a bolt that you can move. if i made it tighter or looser what affect would that have on the lag / boost etc ??

on the topic of wastegates and stuff.. i got a hks 2535 with a adjustable wastegate actuator thingy i think.. in the middle of the arm theres like a bolt that you can move. if i made it tighter or looser what affect would that have on the lag / boost etc ??

Yes it is to adjust the tension on the wastegate flap...

If you extend the rod longer it will open the flap a little or depening on how much you go and it will be very slow to make boost...

If you wind the rod in past the point were its got more tension on the wastegate flap holding it closed for longer as the RPM comes up, results in higher boost level.

So the best spot is usally hold the flap closed with your hand adjusted the rod so you have to only pull it a little bit so it holds firm tension on the wastegate arm...

Than using a boost controller to adjust for more boost.

Hope that helps.

i remember when the turbo was off the car i couldnt move the wastegate arm thingy at all with 2 hands.. it was realy tight, if thats good or bad ?? the stock one was heaps easier, you could actualy move it

so i shorten the arm thingy to make it spool faster ?? if i play with it and my cars been tuned will it stuff up the tune ??

thanks for ur help :laugh:

Anyone else see a problem here?

running a bigger turbo on stock management/ecu/injectors/fuel pump can be a real recipe for disaster.

Get management sorted, get it on a dyno and check your AF ratios are correct BEFORE you boost your car - unless you have enough spare cash around for a rebuild/engine swap

i remember when the turbo was off the car i couldnt move the wastegate arm thingy at all with 2 hands.. it was realy tight, if thats good or bad ?? the stock one was heaps easier, you could actualy move it

so i shorten the arm thingy to make it spool faster ?? if i play with it and my cars been tuned will it stuff up the tune ??

thanks for ur help :laugh:

What boost do you get when running just actuator?

If the wastegate flap is hard up against the back of the turbo and the arm has to be streched a little bit to hook on than thats were you want it, and thats the fastest the turbo will spool, making it tighter again will give you more boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...