Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anytime man. I need an excuse to go take some pics. Just let me know when so I can work out a good spot to shoot your car. Should be alright. It's much harder to shoot mine cause it really needs to be shot in a dark place, white cars are a bit easier :)

Lol all them parts cost me a lot of money back in the day and that was when the Yen was 105 to our dollar and it was still expensive as shit.

Genuine Abflug Carbon Rear Diffuser i want $700 for it, cost me over $1500 back in the day.

Genuine Autoselect Carbon Chibi Devil Wing i want $650, cost me $850.

Genuine Series 3 Xenon Lights Brand New i want $2000 they are worth over $3000 if you had to get them from Nissan, will fit GTST's as far as i know.

R34 N1 Nur RB26, has done 25,000kms Bare engine, no turbo or intake PM me for more specs on engine $9000.

OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch still in very good condition with push, pull converter $2000 worth over $3500 New.

Heaps of other shit to come

Ben, are you selling your turbos? What are they? How many kms, etc?

Yeah Jono was gonna try sell them as a kit Tomei Expreme Manifolds, HKS 2530's with HKS 1.3Bar Wastegates, and HKS Dump Pipes. all have been Ceremic Coated in Chrome and have not been used since they were done. They have done approx 15,000Kms. Asking $3200 for the lot.

179824_10150110643388485_679318484_6368551_7426706_n.jpg

179849_10150110643428485_679318484_6368552_2430182_n.jpg

185824_10150110643488485_679318484_6368554_7385278_n.jpg

208523_10150162253498485_679318484_6725748_1310197_n.jpg

Also have a Full Titanium Exhaust System as well.

-Sunline Racing GT Spec Titanium Front Pipe BRAND NEW Never Been Used - $1200 is I Payed Way more rolleyes.gif

-Greddy 90mm Titanium Catback Straight Through Used but in very good condition - $1000

do it phil!

looks good cal. phil i think you should start the carbon whore group :3some:

does anyone else think its time the mods just merged the mackay & townsville threads into a nth qld thread?

I have heaps of other shit for sale i pretty much want everything sold off the car so it is just a rolling chassis, my brother and I want to start another project car. After all the stuff we learnt building the R32 we think we can built a top level time attack car which will be more extreme than the R32 in nearly every way and will probably take another 3 years to do. So everything thing must go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...