My Restoration

[arep3]

what did you do to the fuel tank? im thinking ill get it cleaned out when the motor is getting rebuilt. the fuel filler pipe has a hole in it from when the car was complianced... i cant fully fill it as the car will laek fuel everywhere when its on the slightest angle.

[Godzilla32]

Yeah thats right. I'll see how the credit card transaction goes, if it fails i will go thru him.

As for the fuel tank, i cleaned it down and made sure all the hoses were not cracked etc. Was going to wash it out with solvent but didnt end up doing it.

Sounds like a dodgy compliance you got I know what you mean though, they gotta cut something an add the fuel filler restrictor.

Thanks mate,

Deren

Edited January 22, 2007 by Godzilla32

[arep3]

they had this tool that the restrictor plug fitted into. they just pushed it into the pipe as far as it would go then tightened it up. i think the restrictor punches the piping to lock itself in place. i saw the guy do it once... pain in the arse though as i was filling up 1 day and i was thinking "shit shes empty today" then a guy told me i was leaking. not a nice way to find a hole in your fuel pipe. that was the first time in ages ive been full on embarrassed

[VSPEC32]

Looks like the race is on Deren...just fitted up the wheels and tyres. Finally it's a roller (theoretically).

http://www.sillbeer.com/

Cheers

Brendan

Edited January 23, 2007 by VSPEC32

[Godzilla32]

I wasent aware they had a tool to fit the filler restrictors. Mine also looks like inside the filler has been cut a bit, but it doesnt leak. I've attached a photo from fast if you wanna work out what you need and call nissan for a new part. Good luck

Hey Brendan,

You'll beat me by a long way, I was just about to type out what id been upto but then realised you've probably just read it all on here already haha. I plan to get to work on the front end asap and hopefully have that done in a month or so. Most of those suspension arm bushes are slightly worn so i'll replace them all as i go. Good to hear from you anyway, i've been keeping myself up to date with your progress on sillbeer. Looking excellent! Keep up the good work.

Talk soon,

Deren

[arep3]

I wasent aware they had a tool to fit the filler restrictors. Mine also looks like inside the filler has been cut a bit, but it doesnt leak. I've attached a photo from fast if you wanna work out what you need and call nissan for a new part. Good luck

Hey Brendan,

You'll beat me by a long way, I was just about to type out what id been upto but then realised you've probably just read it all on here already haha. I plan to get to work on the front end asap and hopefully have that done in a month or so. Most of those suspension arm bushes are slightly worn so i'll replace them all as i go. Good to hear from you anyway, i've been keeping myself up to date with your progress on sillbeer. Looking excellent! Keep up the good work.

Talk soon,

Deren

cheers mate

[Godzilla32]

Your welcome Ron, your my best customer. Haha, its the least i can do!

[arep3]

Your welcome Ron, your my best customer. Haha, its the least i can do!

lol!

i paid a visit to my mechanic today for a good list of parts etc for my rebuild. we had a good chat for a while. looks like im gonna be up for a little more then id hoped. i shoulda guessed that cos its a gtr....

theres a couple of other things im gonna do while the motor is out. like a sump baffle. get my clutch sent to jim berry etc. im so gonna hafta drive careful after this is all done until i get my suspension and brakes done.

[Godzilla32]

Yeah well theres no point in leaving out other important items while you got the chance to do them. Sump baffle is a good idea also oil gallery restrictor, improved oil returns to sump, full width oil pump drive collar, new water pump and radiator flush, finely balance all internals, etc. Plenty to do, i dont believe in doing things half hearted! You may have guessed that though haha.

[arep3]

are you gonna be doing anything special to the internals for your motor deren? im having a little trouble deciding on just forged pistons or stroking it to 2.8L with either the HKS or Tomei kit...

[Godzilla32]

Yeah i am, but considering i wasnt even going to open the engine at the beginning of this rebuild im only installing forged pistons, complete balance to 0 grams, oil flow control and return, etc. Im sure ive already noted it all down in the thread previously in detail. A stroker kit is way too expensive and you can make great power without it. The crank and rods are known to handle 400kw, from what ive learnt the rods are the weaker of the two. So 400kw is enough for me, if i even modify the supporting hardware for that much power.

Deren

Edited January 29, 2007 by Godzilla32

[Godzilla32]

A week or 2 ago i cancelled my order of BeeR pineapples through Autoshop as nothing was happening. I ordered a set of the Whiteline equivilents (better product) through the group buy and they turned up yesterday. They include 6 rings instead of 4 that come in the BeeR kit. There are 4 small rings as well as the 2 larger rings. They include 2 small ones with splits and 2 without. Unless your going to fit the small rings above the rear cradle you dont need the splits in them which have been known to open up over time.

Spent a few hours today pulling apart all the lines that run from one end of the car to the other underneath. I figured i may aswell clean/paint them up fresh too as it will detract from the rest of the underside. I plan to refit all the lines under the car tomorrow then refit the rear cradle. Today i got a hand to put the rear cradle onto the trolley jack so its ready to position in the chassis. Howeer it looks like the ETS pump on top of the diff wont clear the fuel tank, so hopefully once i unbolt the pump temporarily i will have enough clearance to roll the jack and cradle under the car.

Deren

[Craved]

what did you use to prep the subframe for paint with?

did you just degrease everything then paint over what was there? or did you strip the old paint off and start again, either with sand blasting or wire brush etc.

just about to do this with a mech diff im putting into my car, and curious on how you prepped it up for repainting.

[Godzilla32]

I scrubbed it clean and used a rust converter on the light surface rust. It was only around a few welds so nothing major. After that i wiped it down again with wax and grease remover and painted it. I dont use a primer unless its bare metal. Not with the parts under the car etc anyway. I painted it with VHT chassis/roll bar paint. Its an epoxy based paint so its pretty tough. For the diff i used K&H Engine enamel. It lists diffs, engine blocks, etc on the back of the can.

Good luck mate,

Deren

[Craved]

I scrubbed it clean and used a rust converter on the light surface rust. It was only around a few welds so nothing major. After that i wiped it down again with wax and grease remover and painted it. I dont use a primer unless its bare metal. Not with the parts under the car etc anyway. I painted it with VHT chassis/roll bar paint. Its an epoxy based paint so its pretty tough. For the diff i used K&H Engine enamel. It lists diffs, engine blocks, etc on the back of the can.

Good luck mate,

Deren

awesome, thanks for the reply, was bascically what i had planned just wanted to confirm

good luck with the remainder of your restoration

[Godzilla32]

Over the last two weekends I have:

Cleaned up the under car lines, painted them and refitted them - I took them all to bits and cleaned out every clip etc

Refitted the rear cradle and reconnected all rear end fittings

There are still a few things to add to the rear end like brake calipers, but essentially its complete.

I have included some photos of how its looking now. Photos dont really do it justice.

Im about to begin stripping and rebuilding the front end now as its already dropped out. If i get stuck with anything on that job i'll start refitting bits to the engine bay like brake & clutch hardware, wiper motor, etc

Before I forget one thing i did notice is there is a slight buckle in the front left of the front sub-frame. It looks like its due to a hit on the wheel sending the shock through the castor rod to the frame. I was going to fit adjustable castor rods anyway so will that solve the wheel allignment issue i would have otherwise? Just want to get peoples opinions and find out all possible options to remedy it.

Deren

Note: I already wiped over the tank with a protectant/shine but with all the work i think it needs another hit.

[dezz]

so shiny...will be a shame to drive it on the road

[arep3]

its a work of art! so ur gonna keep the hicas deren?

[Godzilla32]

Yeah only nice weather and only nice roads!

Hicas is staying for now, see how it goes I guess...

Im going to have a full week hard at work on it in a fortnight during my holidays so iI hope to complete the front end in that time.

Deren

[Godzilla32]

Left hand rear brakes fitted.

Deren