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Tenny

R32 GTR bare shell rebuild / restoration

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Alrighty guys,

So i've had a number of skylines over the last 5 years, since getting my first one in 2014. 

A number of R33 drift cars, a R32 drift car in japan @ ebisu circuit (for sale atm if anyone is keen :D), my original green 32 which I've built up over the last 5 years to a 500hp rb25 neo street weapon (this is also for sale...)

With the rising prices of GTR's these last few years..I thought I would never be able to afford a proper GTR without selling everything I own haha. I recently came across someone with a bare non rolling R32 GTR shell which luckily had not been posted for sale online. 

Luckily over the years, I have amassed quite a number of GTR body parts.

The plan is to pretty well fully rebuild the car with as much new items as possible (while not going crazy over the top).

This will take me a long time, but I hope to keep these page updated (unlike my first build post haha).

32 dusty.jpg

32 thumb.jpg

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First day the car arrived...

 

Thinking about what a mistake I had made hahaha.

 

At this stage I have the following genuine gtr parts for the car:

 

bonnet

drivers guard

boot and wing

n1 headlights

grille

 

I am also slowly gathering new rubbers and seals etc from places like Kudos etc.

 

32 with guard.jpg

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Within the first week, I bought a crashed gtst shell to steal as much as I could in the way of generic interior, rubbers, seals, rear bar and reo, rear window, quarter glass etc.

It also came with a genuine 32 GTR steering wheel for only $400...what a steal.

 

gtst.jpg

gtst2.jpg

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I also started stripping the sound deadening out of the gtr with dry ice and isopropyl alchohol. Tried the freeze cans but wasn't as effective as I thought it would be.

Once the car is stripped entirely of sound deadening material, the inside will be cleaned out and made as clean as possible. Still unsure whether I will be painting the interior yet. If anyone has done this before and has thoughts please be sure to let me know..

The body paint will be stripped, any necessary body work done and put in primer as I accumulate parts to put it back together.

 

sound deadening 1.jpg

sound deadening 2.jpg

sound deadning.jpg

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At this stage I have purchased both a complete rear and front subframe for $2750 which will get the car back to a rolling state. 

Yet to pick these up. But they will be stripped and completely revamped with new paint, bushes, etc before going in.

The next thing i'm waiting on is a car rotisserie so I can mount the shell, move it around and prep the underbody for a liner (like raptor etc). If anyone has done this as well,  advice and recommendations would be appreciated. I have lined up one to be picked up in about a month for free...so that should be good.

Edited by Tenny
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Congrats mate! Always brings a big smile to my face to see another BNR32 getting brought back to life :)

Remember, they are essentially a race car put into production, made to go around corners, FAST! 

Try to always keep that in mind. Best of luck, will be 👀

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1 hour ago, R.3.2.G.T.R said:

Nice find, subscribed for updates
Are you replacing sound deadener with another like dynamat?

That is the plan at this stage..although I do know how heavy it is so not sure to what extent yet. I'm hoping to make the car fairly quiet to give it a more modern feel. Hopefully the underliner helps in doing that as well.

 

here is a photo of all my shed ornaments as of tonight....

shed.jpg

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Nice thread, I'm curious on the sound deadener removal, what's the exact process you followed with the dry ice? 

Is it a matter of dump in and wait and after a minute or so hit with a hammer to break it? 

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28 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Nice thread, I'm curious on the sound deadener removal, what's the exact process you followed with the dry ice? 

Is it a matter of dump in and wait and after a minute or so hit with a hammer to break it? 

I picked up 5L of isopropyl from a cleaning supplier for $20. You mix a decent amount of the ice, crushed into almost a powder, with a few dashes of the alchohol until it becomes like a slurry. Pour that on the sound deadening and leave it for a few minutes until you hear the cracks / pops stop. Then scoop the ice onto another part of the deadening and smash the previous bit with a rubber mallet from underneath if you can. Then using a scraper you can flake off really large pieces. Rinse and repeat.

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I picked up 5L of isopropyl from a cleaning supplier for $20. You mix a decent amount of the ice, crushed into almost a powder, with a few dashes of the alchohol until it becomes like a slurry. Pour that on the sound deadening and leave it for a few minutes until you hear the cracks / pops stop. Then scoop the ice onto another part of the deadening and smash the previous bit with a rubber mallet from underneath if you can. Then using a scraper you can flake off really large pieces. Rinse and repeat.


So, is this a job for amateurs? I.e. can it be destructive if the ratios are incorrect or you leave it on for too long etc. I started mine and found some areas - especially the wheel arches - came off in seconds but then the floor was terrible to do.

Awesome project mate!

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Just now, Robzilla32 said:


 

 


So, is this a job for amateurs? I.e. can it be destructive if the ratios are incorrect or you leave it on for too long etc. I started mine and found some areas - especially the wheel arches - came off in seconds but then the floor was terrible to do.

Awesome project mate!

 

Yeah definitely. I've never restored a car before and never tackled sound deadening before either. I'm only 25 so learning a lot as well. 

Just be careful not to hit it too hard and dint the floor :)

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14 hours ago, Robzilla32 said:


 

 


So, is this a job for amateurs? I.e. can it be destructive if the ratios are incorrect or you leave it on for too long etc. I started mine and found some areas - especially the wheel arches - came off in seconds but then the floor was terrible to do.

Awesome project mate!

 

I went through this with my 32(GTR) and found it unreliable and slow. Went down to BOC gases (Australian gas chain), got 9 litres of liquid nitrogen and a container for something like $46, then used that. One of the most fun things you can do with a car. You just pour it out, everything starts cracking immediately and you'll see it start popping up on its own, then you just put it in a bag. Easy, quick, and you get to play with liquid nitrogen.

One of those strange situations where you're like "so, I don't even need to give you my ID... you're just giving me liquid nitrogen to do whatever I want with and it's cheap?... OK, that seems like something which needs to be way better regulated, but I'll take it". 

Had about a litre left over, so I poured it over some bananas and let my niece and nephew smash them with a hammer. Good clean fun.

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44 minutes ago, Veilside R33 said:

I went through this with my 32(GTR) and found it unreliable and slow. Went down to BOC gases (Australian gas chain), got 9 litres of liquid nitrogen and a container for something like $46, then used that. One of the most fun things you can do with a car. You just pour it out, everything starts cracking immediately and you'll see it start popping up on its own, then you just put it in a bag. Easy, quick, and you get to play with liquid nitrogen.

One of those strange situations where you're like "so, I don't even need to give you my ID... you're just giving me liquid nitrogen to do whatever I want with and it's cheap?... OK, that seems like something which needs to be way better regulated, but I'll take it". 

Had about a litre left over, so I poured it over some bananas and let my niece and nephew smash them with a hammer. Good clean fun.

True. I had heard of that before but not tried it. Does the Liquid nitrogen just evaporate shortly after? how do you deal with putting it on vertical areas etc?

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4 hours ago, Tenny said:

True. I had heard of that before but not tried it. Does the Liquid nitrogen just evaporate shortly after? how do you deal with putting it on vertical areas etc?

It evaporates almost instantly (2-3 seconds). For vertical areas, you need to use a little more. With flat areas the few seconds of contact is sufficient to achieve the result, but on vertical areas I found it needed a few seconds of being poured over with it to get the temp low enough to crack the bond.

It’s also not as dangerous as, I think, most of us assume. I managed to get a bit in my hair and on my hands and nothing happened at all. It’s effectively just super cold, not toxic, so as long as it doesn’t remain in contact for long, nothing happens.

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If anyone has FAST, can you please check the part numbers for the steering column assembly between the GTR and GTST? Would really appreciate it :)

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