Jump to content
SAU Community

My Restoration


Recommended Posts

I think you are probably certifiable with the detail you are going to. :laugh:

To see what you have done in the time frame given makes me ashamed to admit I have done a ground up resto( nowhere near as well and with help ) to a AMC Javelin started before you were born .

One day it will be finished but you will have completed your fourth rebuild by then! :laugh:

By the way, when do you sleep and work?

QLD's gain is VIC's loss!

BTW the issue here is DEDICATION, - NOT KNOWLEDGE or OPPORTUNITY!

Yeah i have been at it pretty hard! Its been slow going lately though while waiting for the stoneguard etc. I just got it and applied the two bottles of it but thats only got me about 1/3 of the way! So looks like i better order some more...More waiting! I've completed the underside of the rear, so i could refit the rear end and everything under that area ie:fuel tank, etc. However i was hoping to get more of the underside painted before i refitted anything. I'll see how i feel tomorrow, if i can be patient i'll wait another week, if not i'll just mask out the rear end to make sure i dont get any overspray on it.

Deren

post-14108-1168601791.jpg

post-14108-1168601853.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As you know im currently redoing all the underside with new stone guard which also acts as a deadener. However i dont want to add too much unnecessary weight to the car, which is why i have opted for no big stereo system ie:sub box, amp, etc. I did plan to put in new unlay though. I think ive seen some types that incorporate a bitumen layer into it. Might be the way to go. I want it a little more 'solid' without going crazy.

Back in the day i was well into the big custom stereo installs and i remember a friend settng up his car with painted on deadener inside the doors and stick on roadkill deadener on the panels under the trims. Like you said it completely enhances the audio quality.

Not sure if you have seen them but there are special (think they're called) dyna pads you can get to stick onto the inside of the door skin behind the speaker magnet. It also enhances the bass you get out of the midrange speakers and without a subwoofer i'll need all the bass i can.

I did once plan to make a composite sub box with very thin MDF (to get the actual shape), backed up with plenty of fibreglass for a solid sealed box. However then you still have a big heavy magnet on the sub (or 2) and a big heavy amp (at least mine is..PPI 2150) With about 700watt RMS i don't really need one that big but its what i got and its a kick arse amp. Im kinda going round in cirlces here so i think i'll just stop lol.

Have a good weekend guys,

Deren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey deren.

i reckon i spend a good 3 months concidering subs and an amp for my setup. i couldnt justify the extra weight for a bit better sound quality. im not into loud as music were the bloke 5 blocks away can here me, just as long as i can hear it im happy. when i redo my sound setup (after the motor rebuild) ill be just looking at some good mid range and tweeters with some good sound proofing behind the speakers to stop the doors flexing etc.

subs and amps weight a ton. can you accept that extra weight?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

javelinmp_h15s.jpg

TurboX - Your restoring a Javelin??

:)

Yeah, wish it was one of those!! :no:

But it's one of these which wont go quite as fast but should be more driveable! :(

ramjavelin12.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey deren.

i reckon i spend a good 3 months concidering subs and an amp for my setup. i couldnt justify the extra weight for a bit better sound quality. im not into loud as music were the bloke 5 blocks away can here me, just as long as i can hear it im happy. when i redo my sound setup (after the motor rebuild) ill be just looking at some good mid range and tweeters with some good sound proofing behind the speakers to stop the doors flexing etc.

subs and amps weight a ton. can you accept that extra weight?

I guess the other options is to have a easily removeable sub box and amp for the track days etc. Like you though i will just be going with well setup front splits and rear speakers. These days they can get quite good bass out of those speakers.

Last night i dropped out the front end. Was a little more involved than the rear, as there were more mounting points to unbolt. Now that its on the ground when it comes time i can wheel it out of the way to stoneguard around the front of the chassis rails/inside the front guards. In time once i have refitted the rear back in after all the underbody painting has been done i will get onto rebuilding the front end like i have done to the rear.

Deren

post-14108-1168733956.jpg

post-14108-1168734057.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Godzilla

In my experience, unless you are going to chop up your rear bar to fit 6x9 or 7x10 speakers, I would spend the money in the following way.

HIGH end front splits with sound deadening behind them on the door skin, also using the special 'speaker pads' that one of the companies makes.

Mount the split in the front corner of the front door, where you might find a rear vision mirror adjuster in lessor cars.

Then you either delete the rear speakers and fit a 10" high powered, low weight sub in a removable box.

The amp can sit in the back against the rear seat (if there is room) or under one of the front seats.

If required, the rears can run straight off the head unit thus saving weight on a bigger amp.

I would highly recommend deadening the parcel shelf also, as oterhwise the dame thing rattles like a maniac with a little bit of Bass.

I have Soundstream Splits in the front and Soundstream co-axes in the back, no amp but a top head unit.

I assumed that being a small cabin, that the bass would be adequate from that set up, but alas. Bass levels are reasonable, and the bass does go deep (high quality spekers) but I can't turn it up too loud because it begins to distort.

I plan on one sub soon (after weddding :S ) and will then run the speakers in high pass and let the sub take care of the rest.

Just my 2c

BASS OUT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Godzilla

In my experience, unless you are going to chop up your rear bar to fit 6x9 or 7x10 speakers, I would spend the money in the following way.

HIGH end front splits with sound deadening behind them on the door skin, also using the special 'speaker pads' that one of the companies makes.

Mount the split in the front corner of the front door, where you might find a rear vision mirror adjuster in lessor cars.

Then you either delete the rear speakers and fit a 10" high powered, low weight sub in a removable box.

The amp can sit in the back against the rear seat (if there is room) or under one of the front seats.

If required, the rears can run straight off the head unit thus saving weight on a bigger amp.

I would highly recommend deadening the parcel shelf also, as oterhwise the dame thing rattles like a maniac with a little bit of Bass.

I have Soundstream Splits in the front and Soundstream co-axes in the back, no amp but a top head unit.

I assumed that being a small cabin, that the bass would be adequate from that set up, but alas. Bass levels are reasonable, and the bass does go deep (high quality spekers) but I can't turn it up too loud because it begins to distort.

I plan on one sub soon (after weddding :S ) and will then run the speakers in high pass and let the sub take care of the rest.

Just my 2c

BASS OUT

Very informative. Thanks for that Bass Junky, much appreciated! I was planning on the front splits and some co-axes in the back. I had thought it may be worthwhile adding some stinger roadkill or the like to the rear parcel shelf like you mentioned.

Thanks for the compliments Sean! :(

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Deren, I was wondering what you plan on doing for the interior? As the rest of the car will be basicly new. Will you be getting new interior parts, the ones that are available or only replacing the ones that show their age? I've seen a few parts you can get new, like the arm rest, hand brake assembly, gear boot, console surround and rear quarter trim: some pics

post-29295-1168930869.jpg

post-29295-1168930911.jpg

post-29295-1168930921.jpg

post-29295-1168930934.jpg

post-29295-1168930944.jpg

maybe you will go for a retrim. but from what you have said I presume you want it as factory as possible. You are doing a top job on your car. I am sure many skyline owners envy your dedication. Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well yeah thats the problem ive come accross. i want to be able to use this car but its hard to bring yourself to even drive the thing after so much time and money have been poured into it. I do plan at least to go to the drags with my new engine in etc, but was planning to go for a few laps during (hopefully) quiet time on a circuit.. Just have to be clear of other cars especially if they are behind me!

Dude, If I were you and did this much work, I would keep it totally stock, and sell it when I retire. It will be the only car you have ever owned that you will make a packet on when you sell.

Vidospace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey mate Nick here from melb (EVLS-15). Great to see the work your doing on the car mate. Just wish you were back n melb to do it (and run stefan's business :D ) so i could swing past and perve on the whole thing. anyway mate keep going and good luck!

Nick....

Edited by stolen_s15
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

As for the interior the seats are in excellent condition aswell as much of the rest, so thats a big saving. However hand brake cover and gear shift cover are not so great so I will get them trimmed in leather to match the rest of the interior. The dash has a large bubble in the usual place so im hoping to get a close match on that and get it reskinned.

The car isn't going to be as stock as i may have led to believe. I do want it the cleanest one around but i also want to have some fun making more power. If you havent read i have a tough engine to go back into it with built internals and very finely balanced all the way through.

Hey Nick! Good to hear from ya. I often wish i was still down there. Will be back in a few more years so im sure things will resume as normal then :D I've been in touch with Chris (White S13) and he has filled me in whats new.

Deren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far so good. Today i received my order of another 4 bottles of the wurth (thick) stoneguard. Straight after work i applied one bottle and like last time (even with good ventilation) i managed to get myself extremely high from the fumes. I guess thats always gonna happen when your face is only about 20 cm from what your painting and your laying under a car! Anyway its looking really good and im hoping to finish the painting by tomorrow and finally get to reinstall the fuel tank, rear end, etc. After that...front end here i come!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, once again im all covered in black spots head to toe but the car is looking very nice underneath. I have finally finished painting the underside to a standard i am happy with. I have taken a few more photos of the final product, though it is quite difficult to get a decent photo of the entire underside in one shot without flipping the car upside down ;)

Note the mega negative camber in one of the shots. Kinda goes like that when nothings bolted together anymore!

Tomorrow i plan to finally get stuck into refitting all those things i previously mentioned in my last post. Wish me luck!

Deren

post-14108-1169286192.jpg

post-14108-1169286250.jpg

post-14108-1169286299.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, im sure i'll run into trouble at some stage now that im reassembling the thing. So much car to put back together!

Today i got the fuel tank in, a few heat shields, and some hydraulic lines. Im very fussy how things look before i put them back in so im taking my time and anything that isnt already detailed i'll be doing along the way. It does take a little while sometimes to remember how bits and pieces went, especially the ones that the panel beater removed. He kindly gave me a massive bag of nuts, bolts, screws, etc that i sorted into groups to make it easier. Big job but in a couple of hours i managed to sort most of the stuff into about 20 bags. I may ask for a few photos of R32's if i get really stuck haha. Has already crossed my mind a few times so far...

Anyway i'll keep you all posted through the week, of how im going. Before i can refit the rear cradle i need to get my hands on a set of pineapples from AutoShop up here in brissy. I originally tried doing a direct deposit into their account but after awhile i got my money back and it said there was no such account. They never answer their phone either. So i thought i may aswell try a credit card purchse this time. Waiting to see how it goes... Anyone else had any luck buying off them lately?

Deren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

deren try sydney kid. i personally haven't bought any suspension stuff off him but when i got the money ill be getting the works off him. from coilovers to pineapples. direct deposit and its on the way. he has group buys on here if your interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To add to that very useful summary, even in the race/rally r32 gtr I have good quality, new(ish) poly bushes everywhere because that is what rules require, and the handling is excellent. Of course, the car doesn't do many klm but I'd still expect poly bushes to last better in road use than sphericals (especially as I have a couple of klm of dirt road to stuff sphericals up) I would change the front upper arms to spherical if I was allowed to, because the poly bushes flog out often, but otherwise new bushes (and ball joints) and a good alignment can make a world of difference
    • Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?
    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
×
×
  • Create New...