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I sold my Nova and bought a series 2 silhouette.

So far this is what i bought it with:

darkhalf ecu,

lowered on king springs,

advanced extractors,

full s3 conversion,

1 piece tailshaft,

very heavy duty clutch.

and it has 103.4 rwkw, lol

My plans are eventually to put an RB20 in it, some good sus, get an exhaust and learn to drift.

Oh and its a manual.

Jenna

1024329ig7.jpg

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Car has a few issues at the moment, lol but nothing we cant fix (i hope)..

-to open the fuel flap i need to carry around a metal ruler to pry it open ever time i need fuel (no joke, lol).

-boot was broken and replaced when i bought it, but latch it stuffed so the boot is cable tied down, lol.

-gearbox is so stuffed its not funny (will be getting rb20 gearbox asap).

-my bonnet has an arse mark on it... im assuming that when it was resprayed someone sat on it (with jeans on mind you) and imprinted their arse into the paint, lol.

-ignition switch is a bit of a hassle too...

other than that the car drives fine.. nice amount of power through the hills, doesn't drift very well though.

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Is it a RB30 one? If it is why waste your time with a little RB20? put a RB25DE non-vct head on it from a either a R32 skyline, A31 cefiro or C33 laurel and make it turbo, with the head I just mentioned it bolts strait on with no mods apart for the cam belt tensioner needing to be moved and it will have about 8.2 to 1 compression ratio perfect for turboing! Theres heaps of info around just P.M me if you need any!

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Is it a RB30 one? If it is why waste your time with a little RB20? put a RB25DE non-vct head on it from a either a R32 skyline, A31 cefiro or C33 laurel and make it turbo, with the head I just mentioned it bolts strait on with no mods apart for the cam belt tensioner needing to be moved and it will have about 8.2 to 1 compression ratio perfect for turboing! Theres heaps of info around just P.M me if you need any!
The only problem I can see with this modifycation is that; for someone learning to drift and with a daily car that could be a bit of a death sentence. an RB20det in an R31 should be profficient to drift with, and still probably a bit much for the street for a beginner (mainly if you're a hoon). Edited by Blue Dynamite
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I sold my Nova and bought a series 2 silhouette.

So far this is what i bought it with:

darkhalf ecu,

lowered on king springs,

advanced extractors,

full s3 conversion,

1 piece tailshaft,

very heavy duty clutch.

and it has 103.4 rwkw, lol

My plans are eventually to put an RB20 in it, some good sus, get an exhaust and learn to drift.

Oh and its a manual.

Jenna

1024329ig7.jpg

I'm going to be another of the Devil's Advocate variety.

You claim 103.4 rwkw????? Where you get that when the RB30E is rated at 114kw at the flywheel?????

An RB20DET will deliver about 140 something kw at the fly and bags LESS torque than the stock RB30E. Remember HP (Kw) is only good at the top end of the rev range and it's the torque you need to get you off the line and I guess make a good drifter.

The S2 GTS RB30E delivered 142Kw at the fly and for all intents and purposes your car will LOOK stock as a rock under the bonnet.

Any VL Turbo, RB30ET delivers about 150Kw at the fly, along with bags of torque, so why wouldn't this be in your plans of modifications?

I just can't see the sense, when you want to use the car as a learning curve for drifting, your going to even consider an RB20 when the stock RB30 with a cam, injectors and extractors and I think a head job to increase the compression and some ECU mods, you can attain a far better overall package for your purposes.

Send a PM to CAZZ and ask her advice before you go heading into engine swaps, she knows probably more about aussie R31's than most on here claim to know.

Cheers, D

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RB20DET in aussie R31 is a verry popular conversion with the R31 boys and girls......even a VLT setup on it will have heaps of torque :D

I say go the 20 eventually and hug the limiter all day, although 30E's love it too :laugh:

Ghostrider: of course CAZZ will say RB30E :P thats a gimmie :O

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For some reason the car had a dyno and hence the 103.4rwkw was found.

Car has had thousands spent on fixing it up in the past.

Sticking with RB30 for the time being, but i just love the RB20's too much.

At the moment i have to settle with what ive got and begin tidying the car up.

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You claim 103.4 rwkw????? Where you get that when the RB30E is rated at 114kw at the flywheel?????

An RB20DET will deliver about 140 something kw at the fly and bags LESS torque than the stock RB30E. Remember HP (Kw) is only good at the top end of the rev range and it's the torque you need to get you off the line and I guess make a good drifter.

With an exhaust and a increased timing they can pull that power, the dyno probably was reading a tad high though.

More torque generally means it makes the power lower in the rev range. With a shorter diff ratio (4.3) you will have similar tractive efforts at the same speed in a rb20 vs rb30. Hell you could just paint different numbers on your tacho and it'd 'feel' torquier. As long as the gear ratios and diff ratio match the power band of the motor theres no issue. Putting a RB20DET in say a VL commodore behind an auto with a 3.08 diff will make it feel like an absolute slug however as many VL owners have noted.

If you are drifting you are going to be revving the tits off it anyway so I dont think low down power is going to matter much.

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103.4 sounds reasonable, I would probably have expected more with the mods it's got.

...the manuals have less loss of power via drivetrain, add in the extractors and chipped ECU, and it's not an unrealistic number.

My Ti (auto) was dyno'd at 101.8 with only a pod & advanced timing.

Why do people always blame the dyno when they don't like the numbers other peoples cars produce. :)

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Why do people always blame the dyno when they don't like the numbers other peoples cars produce. :)

Because dyno's are often incorrect? Its entirely possible thats the correct value.

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=23881.0 thread on 31 dynos for anyone thats curious

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Why anyone would make a backwards step to an RB20 in a local R31 is beyond me. The extra time and money in rewiring the car just isn't worth it to have a laggy RB engine under the hood. I have an RB 30 with a stock VLT setup, and managing 13.6 over the quarter mile. RB20's with the same configuration are getting around 14.5 - 15.2. Still good times, but not worth the expense of changing engines. The additional torque out of the 3.0 litre will be much better for getting of the line. Not too sure about drift, but I do know of a couple of R31's in the drift scene, and they seem to do pretty well.

Work on your 3.0 litre, you will get a better result. If you must have twin cams, bang an RB25 head on it. Still too expensive, but a much better result than the 2.0 litre.

Sorry Wheezy, we know how much you lurve the wheezy RB20.

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Very well said! Defanatly a big backstep putting a RB20 in it as these day they just dont cut it and go twincam I say as with a stock internal RB30E/25DE RB30DET you can get upto 300RWKW and the head is the limiting factor in the RB30E's!

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No need to flame the girl!

Hey Jenna, go back and check what I wrote in my thread on Ns.com about my silvia.

Doing an engine conversion myself I'm going to say you are going to throw so much money wiring that thing up, it might be easiest to sort out oa rb25, or rb26 head for it, turbo, manifold etc, ecu!

Even the JDM 31s that came with rb20s have trouble moving until they are higher up in the rev range, but your car is heavier.

Check the Forced Induction section for info on the hybrids! You might like to do something like that!

If you are a drifter, you probably want a little more torque than a rb20 is going to give you!

Good luck

Liz.

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