Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know that this post could cop a fair bit of flamming etc etc, but I was just curious the other day, what kind of costs/things would be involved in Turbo charging a commodore say a VS,VT or VX?

Obviously Turbo charger, and a tune etc etc

but what kind of costs are we looking at?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140569-turbo-charging-a-commodore/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Let me be the first to say :):)

Since the V engines you either looking at twins or one complex bitch of a manifold. Then you have issues with the stock compression and engine management. There was some kind of commy wagon with a turbo at the last dyno day I was at that pulled 195rwkW with over 200k's on the engine.

I'd say your better off selling and buying a V8 or maybe getting an XR6T if your into the aussie turbo. A v8 will definately sound better. Your not going to get a good answer on here, definately try a holden/commodore forum.

The compression in the engine is to high and you will need to deal with this first.

Then you need some savvy and choose a turbo that compliments the motor.

Get some custom work on inlet,manifold,exhaust and intercooler mountings.

You will need to re-tune your car and set up a boost controller.

After you have spend 1000+hours and $7000 and the thing is not working right

because you nhave other problems...ie fuel pump or injectors or mis-firing etc etc etc.

It would have been better off buying a gtr32 for $20000.

Hope I have been of some help. :):)

You are better off super-charging this gives you good gains and can bolt up to your set-up .

my mate single turboed his vr commodore, had the turbo at the front of the motor which melted the clutch fan then about a month later blew the motor, was only running 11psi but was pulling a nice 225rwkw's!

The thing pulled like crazy while it lasted.

Unless your going to rebuild the motor don't bother!

i think with a small budget you can bolt on a smallish turbocharger and get some good gains but the issue with the v manifold is a big problem

so you would have to go small twins. as long as you dont want captain insano power it should be reasonable ish, but it will all be custom, which is where the costs add up, i dont think there would be many off the shelf kits

V6 commodores - they have the worst engine I have ever worked on. Absolute rubbish - nothing like an rb.

Totally agree, I use to own a shit box commodore, biggest load of shit....

I don't think I've ever seen such a bad collection of bad ideas put together in the v6's. From balance shafts, super long timing chains to pissweak conrods and water pump bolts that go through to the water jacket - they are a pitiful excuse for an engine. Pushrods??? They were supposed to go with the red motors and dinosaurs.

Edited by gtst25

http://www.ls1turbo.com.au/ttspecs.htm

http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkrturbo.htm

i would hardly say it works out crap...

sometimes people on here are quick to diss anything which isnt a skyline.. which is pretty funny when a lot of people are driving stockish 33's

Let me be the first to say :P:rolleyes:

Since the V engines you either looking at twins or one complex bitch of a manifold. Then you have issues with the stock compression and engine management. There was some kind of commy wagon with a turbo at the last dyno day I was at that pulled 195rwkW with over 200k's on the engine.

I'd say your better off selling and buying a V8 or maybe getting an XR6T if your into the aussie turbo. A v8 will definately sound better. Your not going to get a good answer on here, definately try a holden/commodore forum.

I've seen that car, he came to my work and bought some parts. I saw the sticker on his windshield saying "Ovaboost" and I was thinking wtf its a commonwhore.. Then he popped the bonnet and theres a turbo bigger than my head strapped to the side of it :) . He reckons when he got it done the standard auto lasted as far as him driving away from the workshop and planting it for the first time ahaha.

Car looked like a bit of a POS though, but a V6 wagon that runs 12s is a pretty impressive achievement

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...