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jrocket, thats about as dirty as i have gotten mine, but mine was on a concrete skid pan, but it went for an accidental excursion off the skidpan through a big (about 8 inches deep) puddle of mud. it cracked my front bar, and i wasn't driving.

Yeah it took me hrs to clean all the car. Had to take all wheels off to clean inside of rims. All brakes had to be cleaned, sand washed off all the shockers. There was half the track sitting on top of my exhaust cannon. skirts all were full of sand adding to the weight of the car. Basically just put the car on stands and then got under there with the pressure cleaner to get all the shit off.

Note to self. Stay away from dirt roads and mud patches.

I don't usually let my car get too dirty, but one time I had to go away for work for a long duration and parked my car at my parents house for around 6 weeks. The problem was, I didn't cover it up, and I parked it too close to the lawn, and the lawn has automatic reticulation using ground water. My car was stained yellow/brown when I came home. And it wouldn't come off - it seems to eat into the outmost layer of paint and embed itself. Some cutting compound managed to remove some of it, but it was a slow process, and I was still busy with work, so it stayed like that for a few days, and by the end I wanted to sell it coz I didn't even want to look at it. I ended up paying a guy to come out and acid wash it. When he saw the car, he didn't say anything, he just frowned. It took him around 4 hours to clean (although he did do the interior too). Car looked fantastic again afterwards.

Ouch that would suck. I will keep that in mind as i am thinking of leaving my car at my mums place for a few months while i go away for work. I parked my car at my dads place once near a tree and the f'ing tree was dropping sap down. My car had like splatters of resin all over the car. That took some elbo grease to clean.

  • 3 weeks later...

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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