Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

iv got the same problem at high revs in my s2 33 going from 3rd to 4th aswell, and once it has done it going from 4th to 5th, i went to a couple of places and they sed it might be cheaper to get a new box :P they say it a lot of work replacing the syncros ;) i brought up that changing the oil to redline will stop it but they sed it will just hide the noise and will result in the gearbox needing a rebuild down the track

i have yet to go to a few other places and suss it out :huh:

I had a similar problem in my 33. Was crunching slightly going into second and third... i put in Redline Shockproof (yeah the blue stuff... red bottle if i remember correctly) and after a few days the crunching completely went away. It is heaps better to get into any gear and certainly justifies the cost (i think it was like $125 for the bottle or something :laugh:)

Just my 2c :)

very common problem for skylines to crunch going into high gears at high RPM. My R33 has very low k's and even with good synthetic Motul gear oil it isn't perfect into 5th at big speeds (and the Motul was still a big improvement over the original gear oil!).

Ill try the redline blue stuff and get back to you all.By the way i just had a new clutch fitted,when the box came out they found the clutch pivot pin at the bottom.It had sheered in half.Took forever to find another one.Now the crunching is worse into 5th anything over 2000rpm an it will crunch.So now im driving like a grandma until i can figure something out.

well one would ask where you would be redlining 4th anyway.. im going to assume a track or dragstrip..

Redline shockproof oil is not recommended for gearboxes with syncros... even redline state this.

Castrol VMX80 is a better alternative.. all you're really doing is masking a problem that ultimately needs to be fixed

  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick question. I dont have anything wrong with my GB. But i got some VMX80 cause i am planing to change the oil. Will this make the GB worse if there is nothing wrong with it in the first place?

at high speeds I sometimes crunch going into 4th, but only really at 150 or more, so it doesnt really phase me as a rarley see that sort of speed.

If im paitent on the gear change it go's in fine anyway. I just dont think the synchros can keep up at thoes speeds.

Just a quick question. I dont have anything wrong with my GB. But i got some VMX80 cause i am planing to change the oil. Will this make the GB worse if there is nothing wrong with it in the first place?

No, VMX80 has been tried and recommended by many people on here.

My S2 had a genuine 34,000km on it when I bought it and I noticed a marked IMPROVEMENT when I dumped the factory oil and filled it up with Motul Gear 300. You will probably notice a difference in shifting quality when you put fresh oil in, too.

Yes it is very annoying, my car crunches in forth when entered with high rpm from either second or third, anything over about 4k and crrruuuunnnncchhhh, even when i wait a while with the clutch pedal depressed and still crunch.

I put the redline oil in and found it makes gear changes generally smoother put only really masks the problem as it definately did not go away. Anyone know how much new synchro's would be to put in? or how much a rebuild is?

the RB25DET boxes have dual synchros 1st-3rd and single synchro 4th-5th, 4th seems to be very common synchro to let go in these boxes.

Cost of rebuilding varies greatly depending on what is needed. If you are replacing all bearings and couple of synchros expect to pay just under 1K or up to 1.5K for all new synchros. (plus R&R of box itself)

  • 3 weeks later...

The 33 box is common for this, the fourth gear synchro gets a little tired and eventually wears the input shaft. If you are hard enough on them the selector fork will break in half. I rebuilt one with new bearings, synchros and 3rd/4th selector fork and it lasted just over 12 months, in the end it broke another selector because the worn input shaft wouldnt allow a smooth meshing.

  • 2 weeks later...
^ how much did it cost?

if you have f**ked synchros and are prepared to have it rebuilt.

as if you would choose the same damn gearbox!

i dont know exactly what a good gear box ugrade would be for the 33 but its not practical to put the same gear box back in and rebuild it... obviously the 33 synchros cant handle the shifts

my 33 got this problem from fast 1st - 2nd shifting. now it crunches slightly only when i shift as quick as i can.

but that was my old car.. i have a new 1 now doesnt crunch but it hasnt been given anything yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...