Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd suggest you try to have a look at the two housing types, say a GT30 0.82 split pulse, and a GT30 0.82 single scroll.

Make sure you have an engineers ruler, and or a set of verniers, and even get hold of a couple of small thick wall pipe sections in the size you think you'll need. Do some research on what size steam pipe bends are available because that's what your fabricator will need to work with. Then after you've measured the size of the scroll where he will be cutting into, try to imagine how that can be married up to the pipe section. And be prepared to explain to your fabricator how he will do it - because the sizes are such that I'm pretty sure he won't see it as achieveable.

Single scroll will be a different situation - they can, and they do fit EW setups onto the housing. There are those who swear by them. That sort of setup must work, but it's got to be limiting if you ever want to try a different spec (even just an A/R change in housing for your existing turbo).

So for a split pulse GT30 onto RB engine, your realistic current options are

1. Get a fabricated manifold to suit the Evo spec IW housing. Bonus is that there are two housing sizes available. Run with a 6Boob, ETM, or even the Kiwi-made Hybrid manifold.

2. Get a fabricated manifold to suit an EW setup. Ideally there should be two gates, and you're going to have fun fitting all the exhaust plumbing into a limited space. Best bet for this one is find who supplies this setup already done, otherwise you're paying workshop rates for someone to figure it all out.

His fabricator should have no problem with it. ;)

For someone that was looking heavily at exactly this as a cheap and worthwhile solution 6 years ago, you seem to be pushing the expensive manifold options now, any reason you dropped it?

  • Replies 220
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

FYI I recently called 6boobed Kyle about a manifold with alternate evo flange and unfortunately he wasn't interested. He would only do odd flange types if they were basic single scroll options IE evo 3 or tial v band.

As for cheaper manifold options I have seen a couple of cheaper manifold based setups go wrong now and I am of the personal opinion the manifold was to blame. Physical damage scenario. Better to stick to a trusted item at the moment as warranty on cheapies is limited.

No Scott, not 'cheap' manifolds, he asked me to modify the split housing for external gate, so it can be bolted to the stock manifold. As the power goal is a responsive 300kw it should pose no restriction...

Kyle won't change his design because it would mean making a new jig.

Twin scroll collectors for a six cylinder engine involve a lot of time consuming work and thats probably not something your average Joe can see or want to pay for .

Most people would be more than happy with the performance Mick o got from his RB25/factory exhaust manifold and that combination would be hard to beat on price . The Rolls Royce option would probably be a Garrett TS T3 flanged twin integral gate turbine housing like their Evo 10 GT30 housings have .

Thats about as far as I think you'd get with the std manifold and whilst It may not make that much more total power the overall spread and delivery is in theory better .

Back in the real world its a lot less grief to just put together a system that gets you the power you want with minimul turbo lag . The fact that you can make lots of bolt on power is a big plus .

A .

No Scott, not 'cheap' manifolds, he asked me to modify the split housing for external gate, so it can be bolted to the stock manifold. As the power goal is a responsive 300kw it should pose no restriction...

Kyle won't change his design because it would mean making a new jig.

Sorry mate I was referring to the recommendation to consider something like the NZ Hybrid type manifold.

I fully support the move to have you mod his ewg housing ala ARTZ.

Do you see any drawbacks? I recall there is a slight split in the divider of my manifold at the flange, is the rb one the same? It shouldn't affect things too much though.

As for evo footprint manifolds, I will be heading down that path soon with my 2.4 stroker 7. I was going to make a t3 mani for a gtx3071 but if this works as I imagine, I might try it myself. I don't like internal gates.

Do you see any drawbacks? I recall there is a slight split in the divider of my manifold at the flange, is the rb one the same? It shouldn't affect things too much though.

As for evo footprint manifolds, I will be heading down that path soon with my 2.4 stroker 7. I was going to make a t3 mani for a gtx3071 but if this works as I imagine, I might try it myself. I don't like internal gates.

With the FP units on the market I really dont see any place for a GTX on an evo lol :ninja:

His fabricator should have no problem with it. ;)

For someone that was looking heavily at exactly this as a cheap and worthwhile solution 6 years ago, you seem to be pushing the expensive manifold options now, any reason you dropped it?

No disrespect to you Scott, if you are doing the work for him. I'm aware of the dimensions of the scrolls, and the likely/available pipe sizes that would be employed if modifying a "free floating" type housing to take external gates, and don't see that as a particularly viable option. There's not a lot of cross-sectional area in each scroll at the likely point you'd cut in, versus the size of pipe you'd be using to feed the wastegates. That said, I am not a fabricator - perhaps you'd modify the manifold?

Disco seems to get the thrust of my comments - at that 300kW mark the best bet from a cost:benefit standpoint is to run with an internally gated, bolt-on setup. Anything else means spending time and real $$ to get it set up right. I do feel that an external gate setup IS better because - provided the design is a good one - better/more flexible boost control is possible. That is why in some earier discussion about Disco's options I indicated knowledge of two members who had difficulty running less than 19psi from a 0.63IW GT30.

My position is as steady now as in '07 - practical and cost efficient setups should rule. Manufacturers are knocking out some pretty cool gear these days, and there are undoubted benefits to split pulse (Evo, Mini) and compound turbochargers (BMW, VW) - but I don't see great need to go there. The question was posed about split pulse, and the intent was to point out complexity and expense (whether IW or EW) in going that path simply to achieve bragging rights of technical superiority. I wouldn't push anyone down the path of an expensive split pulse setup, but if they feel compelled to do it that way, it should be done properly - as you point out that is an expensive modification path.

I'd rather see the extra funds diverted into making sure the grunt can be put to the ground - diff/tyres/suspension. People mention 300kW like it's nothing amazing. In my view, achieving that figure on an RB25 is relatively straightforward and thare are a good range of options to get there. Being able to do something with it is a whole 'nother subject.

So my bolt on viable option might be of interest to a few of you? We shall see how it turns out I guess.

This one will be single 45mm gate with a single split feed, (similar to BW's internal.) Cost wise it's just as cheap as Artz's Kando external with perhaps better spool, hopefully comparable to Owenliberts results. (all in by 3500) Will be interesting to see how it goes anyway.

So my bolt on viable option might be of interest to a few of you?

Will be interesting to see how it goes anyway.

Yep, it is interesting - thumbs up for backing yourself and having a go. I hope it is a good thing. :yes:

Well if you can find a way to do it thats not too costly or difficult more power to you . Many have tried and fail to do so mainly because the ext gate stands out like the proverial or they have thermal issues and cracking . I think if you want cost effective to a degree the way is to beg/borrow/steal that HKS cast low mount manifold and go from there . Possibly even do something with the rare RB26 version of this manifold because of its larger ports particularly into its T4 turbo flange . I think the only other way is to make a manifold to suite the Evo 10 GT30 turbos flange . Maybe speak to Geoff Raicer of FullRace though he'll very likely say buy an off the shelf EFR turbo with T4 flange and twin integral gates . I sure he could make an Evo flanged manifold if you really want one .

I don't want to go into the GT30 TR30 turbine debate again , simpler for Garrett to have a few more GTX compressors to close up the gaps in their range . I think the GTX3067R was easy to bash together because they had the bits to GT30 a GTX28 turbocharger . Had it been a clean sheet approach it may have had a 69mm GTX wheel of ~ 50 pounds flow and a bit more usefull as an entry level GT30 IW turbocharger , IMO anyway .

A .

I realise you are speaking generally, but this setup has specific goals, and I doubt a T4 is required for that 300kw target. It must utilise the stock mani, and the 3037 has already been purchased, other than that he wants the best spool possible, and I think the .82 split housing will do that (from what I remember of Owen's graph) It's not rocket science.

A full race manifold would blow the cost out 10 fold. lol.

As for cracking, Artz has tracked and thrashed his Scotty modified Kando for years with no issues. I can't see sticking a divider into his design would change anything.

Yes if you can keep the heat in the gas rather than heating the manifold and turbine housing it does help .

In some ways I look forward to tuning with a larger turbine and housing because I fiddle a lot to get every last Nm I can out of part throttle running . Something a little unusual happens to mine over 3000 and I'm not sure if its tuning or the GTRSs erm modest exhaust path .

A .

So my bolt on viable option might be of interest to a few of you? We shall see how it turns out I guess.

This one will be single 45mm gate with a single split feed, (similar to BW's internal.) Cost wise it's just as cheap as Artz's Kando external with perhaps better spool, hopefully comparable to Owenliberts results. (all in by 3500) Will be interesting to see how it goes anyway.

more spool my ass and if it does its because of cams and gears...pretty sure some cam gears will wake mine up a lot earlier too ;)

I realise you are speaking generally, but this setup has specific goals, and I doubt a T4 is required for that 300kw target. It must utilise the stock mani, and the 3037 has already been purchased, other than that he wants the best spool possible, and I think the .82 split housing will do that (from what I remember of Owen's graph) It's not rocket science.

A full race manifold would blow the cost out 10 fold. lol.

As for cracking, Artz has tracked and thrashed his Scotty modified Kando for years with no issues. I can't see sticking a divider into his design would change anything.

yep cars still running good not one weld cracked and there is lots of em.. :thumbsup:

anyway sell 3037, buy t67 with 6boob = winning...stupid garret fanbois

The stock manifold has been ceramic coated and the turbine housing will cop the same if it makes a difference :ninja:

has it been ported...pretty sure mine has another 20kws in it with some good manifold porting...the few cars i have seen that have pushed 330-350 on stock manifolds have all had good port jobs...I know Abe was pushing 350+ with his and a HG turbo and mick-os was ported too iirc...

either way thats my next mod + (maybe)HGs billet wheel + cam gears and I think I have quite a bit more to offer , quicker spool, more top end...MORE FAST!!! :D

more spool my ass and if it does its because of cams and gears...pretty sure some cam gears will wake mine up a lot earlier too ;)

I think you guys need to revisit Owen's dyno graph with the .82 split rear. Now how to find it... Here is the petrol one, I couldn't see the 350kw ethanol graph.

Have you seen a 76 spool like that before? The 6boost with it's large runners wouldn't help it out much, believe me. Even Stao mentioned the stock manifold is a response monster. :)

post-63525-0-05827600-1363571927_thumb.jpg

yeah but owen had a 6boob and plazmaman..its hardly a fair comparo...and if staying stock manifolds and inlet its hardly going to make 350kw so why not just use a smaller turbo for same spool results...

anyway enough jibber jabber, just build the thing Scotty and prove us all wrong ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...