Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im doing nissan gazelle with sr convertion,l but its a lot of work and cost about 5g already and probly 8 by the time its finished did i mention its been 11 months since i put the sr in and only first ran it 2 weeks ago. anyway what ever you do by the best condition car you can find even if it 3 times the price of a cheap fingerd one it will save you a lot of trouble in the end, ie dint, shit paint, rust, interior,suspention and bushes

just my 2 cents

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Haysey, where are you getting all these pics from? Friggen awesome! :(

Has anyone ever done up a R31 Skyline wagon?

According to redbook they have the same kerb weight as an R32 GTS-T. A turbo on the RB30 would make it bloody quick in a straight line. You could probably drift it aswell :P

Keep em coming :D

just my usual hunting of the net, coming across these things, always liked sleepers, a mate has a old 71 corona he insipired to put a rotor in, maybe one day...

this cressida has a supra engine in it

cressida5base4do.jpg

69636537.9SCIRTg4.Battery1b.jpg

62661027.WYwflxMW.cress2.jpg

im doing nissan gazelle with sr convertion,

Yeah, s12 silvia coupe, but an FJ20T or CA18eT would do it for 14's, could probably even do a nasty NA SR20 with a stripped out interior. I have heard of RB power s12's but I reckon that'd be heaps of work..

627008_148_full.jpg

I know the pic isn't much of a sleeper but I love it..

Edited by SKY32
Suzuki Mighty Boy with a Pulse Jet Engine :P

Or just a 20kg Titanium frame with a Pulse Jet Engine works fine too :rofl:

omg we musta imported half the mighty boys on that site.

my low budget not so sleeper is a $600 AE86 with a $1000 CA18DET.

get an old volvo and stick a V8 in it or a 1jz , front cut for one of those is only $1400.

Volvos have big ass brakes and massive engine bays, not to mention the diffs are dana's on some of the 70's models meaning it's not too hard to get LSDs and different gear sets and they are super strong.

Nothing better than driving this sort of sleeper, I have experience. I used to love driving my old unit around.

As you can see lots of room in the engine bay.

post-271-1167921048.jpeg

post-271-1167921068.jpg

any old datto that came with an L series 6. drop a v8 in....matter of fact i have a midly worked 253, that only had 5 months of driving before the car was written off. that comes with all cross members and mount to drop in a L6 powered car.

v8 specs:Worked 253, machined by Trapnell Race Engines, ACL Race Series flat top fly cut pistons(60 thou) peened rods, balanced and blueprinted bottom end, New port matched Speedmaster single plane manifold, inlet and exhaust ports tidied, 20thou off heads, new Speedpro billet camshaft, new lifters, new double row timing chain, new w/pump and timing cover,Hi volume sump, double valve springs, block hugger extractors, Alloy rocker covers, Hadfield bellhousing, supra 5speed, Built to run straight LPG, but also suits petrol, 5 months old rebuild. Detailed in black and kermit green.

Selling due to crashed car, no damage to engine or gearbox.

Haysey, where are you getting all these pics from? Friggen awesome! :P

Has anyone ever done up a R31 Skyline wagon?

According to redbook they have the same kerb weight as an R32 GTS-T. A turbo on the RB30 would make it bloody quick in a straight line. You could probably drift it aswell :)

Keep em coming ;)

My 2c: this is the best idea yet. Max sleeper doofus grandpa value, cheap as f#$k, good engineering.

There's a Ford Anglia with a worked SR20 in it running around NSW.

It's a Ford (keeps the olds happy), they weigh about 800kg and they look so granny standard that no one is ever gonna take it seriously.

Power to weight ratio is insane.

I've also seen an Anglia with a worked Ford 4 litre six in the front.

Major firewall mods needed but it went like a rocket and handled too.

This second one would definitely keep his olds on side but realistically I don't think any of the projects mentioned in this thread could be done for 5 grand.

If you can prove me wrong though I'd love to see the results.

i reckon the gazelle may be under the budget.

you can buy em with shagged engines for sub$1000.

spend the rest on the engine of your choice.

and afaik, all the R31 and S13 gear bolts up to it, struts, brakes, etc.

so it could be the cheapest of the lot.

rotor powered S12 ftw :(

realistically I don't think any of the projects mentioned in this thread could be done for 5 grand.

the old C210 skyline coupe i had was converted to v8/5speed and LPG for well under 5k.

dads old 620 datto ute.... we converted it from 1.5l 4 speed on the steering column to 2L 5 speed and twin carb, for under 1k..... if you can do the work yourself, conversions are cheap as chips.

Theres a guy around here with a VS ute with a 1jz and massive high mount. The ultimate of work utes.

theres a guy near here also, lives around logan im sure. damn it hauls ass. VS ute, pursuits and is a sleeper as they come. nasty weapon though.

Edited by silverbulletR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
×
×
  • Create New...