Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 1st round of the Dutton Rally Series is approaching and I was wondering who from here (if anyone) is doing the different Dutton Rounds this year or even competing in the National series.

I'll be doing 3 of the events which is enough to qualify for the National Championship although I'll only be doing 2 of them in the GT-R (if I can get it running again) and the third in one of those pesky EVO's.

I'll start some lists to see who is going where. I presume Russ is doing at least the 3 eastern ones this year?

QLD - 23-25 Feb

gaint/Mark (R32 GTR that will be avoiding water barriers :laugh: )

NSW - 25-27 May

gaint/Mark (R32 GTR as defending NSW champions)

WA - 27-29 July

Snowman/Darkside (EVO 8MR)

VIC - 31 Aug - 2 Sept

Snowman/Darkside (R34 GTR)

Scotsman/Adz (R33 GTR)

Targa/Base Junky (R34 GTR)

Bel180/R32Big Boy (180sx)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153125-2007-dutton-rally-series/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 150
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Good stuff Ryan. I'm sure you and Juz can go head to head again as I'm sure she'll be there.

I've updated the post with everyone from Vic I've heard coming from here. It might actually fill up quite fast as there is a big list from the EVO guys for Vic as well.

EVO Cam will be doing the 3 East Coast ones and I will be there as crew.

Hope to see some decent machinery out (yes I drive a skyline...), with imports smoking the Aussie "muscle"...

I have to agree its DAMN expensive...

My meals are $390 per event (yes per event per person...)

HAY ID LOVE TO DO IT

COULD SOME ONE WRITE A SMALL LIST OF THE STUFF THAT I WOULD NEED FOR IT AND THE PRICES FOR LIKE ENTRY AND WHAT EVER

I HAVE A MILD 32 GTR BUT LOSE LICENCE SOON AND GONNA TURN IT INOT A STREET/CIRCUIT WARRIOR

THANKS

JULZ

From the Dutton Website....

WHAT TYPE OF CARS CAN ENTER?

Any cars can enter the event as long as it is road registered. We have had everything from a 1950’s Austin Healey to 2007 Ferrari’s “do the Dutton!”

WHAT ARE THE ENTRY FEES AND WHAT DOES IT INCLUDE?

2007 Entry prices are: $2070 driver only or $2790 driver/co-driver. Entry fee includes all gourmet meals throughout the weekend, merchandise, CAMS insurance, car numbers and signage, and a souvenir 1hr DVD of the event including TV coverage with Channel 9 as well as coverage on Ch. 9’s The Car Show. Coverage also on FOXTEL and the cable networks.

For the 2007, there is also an opportunity to compete in all four events and be part of the National Series. Take $200 off for two events, $300 for three, or $400 for all four. You only need to compete in three events to be eligible to win the National Series. Those who compete in all four can drop their worst round.

WHERE IS ACCOMMODATION, AND IS THIS INCLUDED?

Accommodation is always in nominated Hotels and Motels, and we block book rooms at each of these locations. Executive Motor Sport Travel in Melbourne handle all of our accommodation and flights, and before each event an accommodation form will be forwarded to you and available on the website that will nominate where rooms are being held. Fill this out and fax in to us, easy as that.

We don’t include Accommodation in the entry price as some people are happy with budget accomodation, and others want 5-star accommodation, all which is up to you.

WHAT SORT OF EVENTS ARE IN THE DUTTON RALLY?

The event is made up of about 30 Circuit Sprints, Auto-Tests, Dragways and Motorkhana’s on a variety of tarmac-only surfaces. No off-road or gravel competition is involved. We use racetracks, airports, carparks, driver training centres – basically any enclosed surface where we can conduct an event.

WHERE ARE THE EVENTS HELD?

The National Series is made up of four state rounds. WA, NSW, QLD and VIC. In most of the rounds events are held in regional areas and conclude in the major cities- Sydney in NSW, Melbourne in VIC and the Gold Coast in QLD. In the WA round most of the events are held in and around Metropolitan Perth.

IS THERE NAVIGATION INVOLVED?

There is no navigation involved in Dutton Rally events, in fact – it is always the Driver-only whilst competing. You can bring a co-driver and he/she competes in every event – against you and as a team. There is even an outright team award for the fastest driver/co-driver combined.

WILL MY CAR GET DAMAGED?

All of the events are conducted on tarmac surfaces, so there is little chance of your car getting damaged. Obviously at any speed accidents can occur, and it is important to remember that your normal road insurance probably won’t cover you if you crash your car during an event. It’s best to check with your insurance company first.

DO I NEED A SPECIAL LICENCE?

You only need a normal drivers licence, plus a CAMS level 2s licence to compete in the event. You can download a form from this website or visit the CAMS website www.cams.com.au for more information.

All entrants are automatic members of our car club, The Australian Performance Car Club (VIC), which you must join in order to compete.

IS THE EVENT SAFE?

The event is a safe as you want it to be – it is up to you and your level of ability. There is always lots of first time entrants, some get it wrong though as they push too hard, and end up damaging the car. Best thing to do is to take it easy at first then try a bit harder as you get more confident throughout the weekend.

We have a full compliment of Ambulances, FIV’s (First Intervention Vehicles) and Rescue Vehicles that come on the event. They are there for your safety if anything does go wrong.

HOW DO I PRACTICE FOR THE EVENT?

Do as much practice as you can at club events – Supersprints and Motorkhana’s. In 2006 there will also be nominated practice days with Murcotts which will include similar events in Dutton Rally format. If you want to find out what is happening in your state, email us and ask! [email protected]

WHAT DO I WEAR DURING THE EVENT?

During all stages you are required to wear neck to wrist to ankle clothing, and an approved Australian Standard (AS1698) safety helmet. Race suits, gloves and boots are not mandatory but recommended.

HOW DOES THE CAR NEED TO BE PREPARED?

All the car needs is to be in road worthy condition and with a minimum 2kgs of Fire Extinguisher fitted. This can either be 1 x 2kg extinguisher or 2 x 1kg extinguishers. They have to be in the cabin within easy reach of the driver. Cable ties are fine, as long as it is secure. Your car does not have to have a roll cage or harnesses, it just needs to be road registered.

Your car also needs to have an approved first aid kit, and also an exhaust which does not exceed 90dB(a), due to tightening venue requirements.

TYRES ARE FREE? WHAT DOES THIS MEAN IN THE REGS?

Tyres for the event are free – this is Motorsport ‘speak’ for you can use any brand of tyres as you like. As long as the tyres are road-registerable – ie: R Type tyres or “semi-slick” tyres are also fine. You must use the same set of tyres all weekend.

NEED FURTHER INFORMATION?

Download a copy of the National Standing Regulations, which will go into detail on classification of cars, etc. If you still need more information, please do not hesitate to email us on [email protected]

Im hoping to do it. Will just have to see how the car is holding up closer to the event. It is good fun....if anyone wants to go halves in entry in my car im tempted

Next DECA i may actually try to learn how to do this motorkhana stuff rather then just act a tool and hurt the car

Technically yes you do because there are transit stages between event locations. However if you run as a Team (driver/co-driver) you may be able to get an exemption by saying the 2nd driver will cover all transit sections (as you can do a normal track day I'm pretty sure even if you have lost your license).

But you will need to take that up with the guys from Dutton.

No problems.

If you have done other club level motorsport events the main appeal of the Dutton is the level of competition which is so much higher than usual club events. But yet at the same time it's not taken overly serious so you still have fun.

If you haven't done much in the way of other club stuff like track days and motokhana's you'll be spending your $$$ better doing a good year or so of them first.

hey snowy

we will be representing gtr's for the first two duttons and seeing how we go from there!

looking forward to it!!

car should be quicker but still need to get it to stop.!!

cheers russ

I heard that a EVO owner who will remain nameless the last time he seen your car take off he turned to the person next to him and goes "now we are in trouble"

So go Giant stick it to 2 the EVO`s

Edited by GTR32GUS

hey guys i'm going in the dutton and looking forward to "stopping the skylines" :laugh:

just joking!!

I'll be happy just competing and getting some experience! I'll be stoked if i get in the top 50 let alone getting a position to brag about!

Also my company Sonic Promotions www.sonicpromotions.com.au is sponsoring the events. We designed the new dutton site www.duttonrally.com and did a cool web promo video: http://www.duttonrally.com/vid-promo.php

we're also doing all their marketing collateral design and email marketing among other things...

i'll be doing all 4 events in my (basically stock) evo IX. seeu all there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...