Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to see if some of the regular importers had an opinion on weather the price of the R34 GTR's will drop when the new model is released later this year?

Did this happen when the R33 took over from the R32, and when the R34 took over from the R33?

Or, do you think that the high supply and lower demand here in Australia will drive the local price of an R34 GTR down, even if their still commanding higher prices in Japan. Just look at the for sale section, there are people struggling to sell Series 3 R33 GTR's for 30 grand, even though they would still cost low 40's to bring in if you wanted to import from Japan.

cheers

Bobby

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154040-opinions-of-r34-gtr-prices/
Share on other sites

Don't think they will move that much in terms of pricing here, because the release of the new Skyline will not affect SEVS stock.

You should probably look at your pricing anyhoo. When I was looking to import late last year Series 3 R33 GTRs were going for high 20s-low 30k landed. And that excludes the rise in the exchange rate we've experienced since.

Don't think they will move that much in terms of pricing here, because the release of the new Skyline will not affect SEVS stock.

You should probably look at your pricing anyhoo. When I was looking to import late last year Series 3 R33 GTRs were going for high 20s-low 30k landed. And that excludes the rise in the exchange rate we've experienced since.

wow, that cheap?

would that be for a mint example or run of the mill?

The few mint examples I heard of have all come in landed for around the low 40's.

Might explain why people are finding it hard to sell in the low 30's.

Thanks

Well R34 GTR prices have not dropped in 3 - 4 years in Japan and it doesn't look like they're going to massively fall anytime soon. You are still looking at 4million yen base price for a good example.

What has come down though is:

- Import Duty - 10% vs 15% four years ago

- Compliance costs

- Value of the yen

- Difficulty in sourcing stock parts

I did the calculations and if I bought my GTR today versus 3 years ago for the exact same auction price I would have saved $13,000. Due to:

- Reduction in import duty

- Increase in the strength of the dollar versus the yen

- Less GST to pay on the combined above

- These combined causing the cost of the car to fall under the LCT threshold

- All this combined causing the cost of the car to be lower for Stamp Duty purposes

- Lower compliance costs due to higher availability of R34 SEVS workshops

So it can be said prices have fallen. The next big fall will be if the government lowers import duty again.

As for local prices. You will only get a bargain locally if someone is going to make a loss if they are desperate. Oftentimes someone will import a dud and scrape it through compliance and sell it cheap here. Is this the kind of car you want though? No.

when's the next import duty % drop?

it's interesting though, because the 34 GTR's coming through on the prestige and j-spec lists seemed to be significantly cheaper than when i was looking for my GT-T in 2004, and was keeping a close eye on anything R34

have the R34 GTR prices really not dropped "in Japan" the last 3-4 years?

when's the next import duty % drop?

it's interesting though, because the 34 GTR's coming through on the prestige and j-spec lists seemed to be significantly cheaper than when i was looking for my GT-T in 2004, and was keeping a close eye on anything R34

have the R34 GTR prices really not dropped "in Japan" the last 3-4 years?

In 2010 the duty will drop to 5% and remain there, this will match the commercial vehicle duty, unless they change their mind like they did before .

R34 GTR prices have not dropped in japan at all in the last 3 years but as they get older you will find rougher cars and of course they will be cheaper . I was there in 2004 and you could find rough 34 V-Spec GTR's there ( rust accident , high ks etc...) from about 3.2 million yen but a good example would be over 4 mil.

As sewid pointed out before our $ has gone from 78-80 to 94 at present and the import duty from 10% to 5% so you could actually escape luxury tax on a car that costs about 4.3-4.4 million yen now .

Back in 2004 you would have to pay luxury tax on a car that cost 3.6 million yen .

I'm sure when they get 17 year olds they will be as cheap as R32's are now ..

Oh course it will go down. Cars (excluding vintage cars) always depreciate generally.

When I first bought my sII r33 gtst, they were going for about 30k. r33 gtrs were going for about 50k.

When the r34 first came out, prices remained the same for a tiny while.

But then even the price of the r34s started to drop. e.g. before, you could only get an r34 gtt for about 30k. They dropped and you can now buy one for 20k. This made the price of r33 gtsts drop.

One thing to note, is that once a car hits rock bottom, they don't really drop anymore, but obviously, this is no where near the case with r34s.

E.g. commos and stuff tend to bottom out at about 3-5k. Once they go to this price, they don't go any lower unless if they're dead. Whether they're 15 years old or 20 years old, it's still the same price.

the same has happened to r32s and s13s. They've hit rock bottom. As they are considered a sports car, they're more expensive than say a commo. In say 5 years time, I don't predict the price of r32 gtsts getting any cheaper.

But yeah, for the 34 gtr, in 5 years, it could be 40k. That is not to say that there is anything wrong iwth those people that have bought it at a high price. They have enjoyed it for all this time, and it is 5 years more modern now then it will be in 5 years time. Just like those that buy new cars, and those that buy second hand.

Edited by MANWHORE
'03 350GT for ~$20K would prolly be a better option than a '99 GT-R for ~$40K. but hey....

yeah it may be, but I tell you now you wont be buying any decent 350GT (especially coupe) for $20K on the road in aus. all the nice ones in japan I've seen at auction go much higher than that and they are still in japan. you may get a high km, thrashed, ex-smoking commuters 4door for that, but It's not worth buying I reckon.

exactly... for what you want... a 350GT is a better option.

and not just straight line, overall performance, a GTR V-Spec is much better choice than a 350GT

i don't think there'd be as much in it on tight tracks or twisty mountain passes as you'd like to believe.

i used to worship at the altar of BNR, but now i'm not so narrowly focussed.

remember-

NA cars need less power than turbo cars to be quick due to better throttle balance/response and no lag

and

the 350GT will have better weight distribution

of course, dollar for dollar, a 34 GT-R would always murder a 350GT in a drag race, but it's hardly relevant in the modern speed camera infested, over zealous cop, stop start cities we live in.

the styling isn't to everyones taste, for sure- but the GT is a much more modern looking car. and they look tops with some tasteful mods.

yeah it may be, but I tell you now you wont be buying any decent 350GT (especially coupe) for $20K on the road in aus. all the nice ones in japan I've seen at auction go much higher than that and they are still in japan. you may get a high km, thrashed, ex-smoking commuters 4door for that, but It's not worth buying I reckon.

yeah- currently. but what i was getting at was, buy the time an actual high-grade early R34 GT-R is worth around $40K, you will be able to get a 4-5 year younger 350GT with brembos for around $20K. which seems to make more sense to me, these days.

i don't think there'd be as much in it on tight tracks or twisty mountain passes as you'd like to believe.

i used to worship at the altar of BNR, but now i'm not so narrowly focussed.

remember-

NA cars need less power than turbo cars to be quick due to better throttle balance/response and no lag

and

the 350GT will have better weight distribution

of course, dollar for dollar, a 34 GT-R would always murder a 350GT in a drag race, but it's hardly relevant in the modern speed camera infested, over zealous cop, stop start cities we live in.

the styling isn't to everyones taste, for sure- but the GT is a much more modern looking car. and they look tops with some tasteful mods.

yeah- currently. but what i was getting at was, buy the time an actual high-grade early R34 GT-R is worth around $40K, you will be able to get a 4-5 year younger 350GT with brembos for around $20K. which seems to make more sense to me, these days.

ah, my bad!. now I get you.

and yes, the 350GT coupe is a very nice car. I've now been in a few and driven a couple and seen heaps in japan. every time I see one I like them more.

I hated the 350GT when I first saw em... however now I am growing to like them... currently in terms of favour (from least to favourite) I'd say R33, R32, V35, R34

V35's look spectacular with the impul kit (Michael Longden at ISASO is doing some nice replica kits for these)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...