Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Or is just jap just got really high prices???QUOTE]

Other place to try for good prices is The Toy Shop in Sydney.

Cheers

The toy shop is based in Newcastle (Cardiff and hamilton)' date=' not sure if it's assciated with the one in Sydney.

http://www.japimports.com.au/

The Sydney one: http://www.toyshop.com.au/

does anyone know any easy way you get the bottom crank gear(if that is what is called) off. people have been saying drill it and bang it off then get a new one. is there a better way? will a bearing puller get it off??

thanks

There is no room to get a puller behind it.

You have to drill a row of small holes along the gear from the front to the back.

And drill the same holes on the opposite side of the gear.

Then get a cold chisel and wack it.

If you drilled the holes deep enough, it will instantly split in to, two sections.

Just use a piece of tape as a depth guage, so you dont drill into the crank itself.

Hope that helps a little.

very informative thread, certainly clears up heaps for me - shall be doing this conversion soon, just purchased an rb25det vct head, and will probably go the powerFC route for management by the sounds of things!

Can't wait to get it on the road, I purchased a 1999 TH magna as a daily driver, so really, anything will be more exciting compared to that!

jesus! or you could just lever it off with a few large screwdrivers and lots of WD-40!

i've had four off and have never had a problem doing it this way.

thats how i got mine off. tight at first but use plenty of wd and keep working it back and forth and will eventually come off.

If anyone was wondering - i just assembled my 30DET and it was definately free running, which is good to know.

standard R33 head (DE cams)

standard nissan .047' head gasket

standard RB30E pistons (ACL)

zero deck height at TDC

geez it looks nice when it's all together - looks like a factory engine.

has anyone welded a gtr plenum on to rb25de runners e.g. cut the intake manifold about 2-3 cm where it bolts to the head then weld a gtr manifold on to the runners? cause for the price of doing that vs trying to run the cross over pipe it looks like a good deal, i am just not sure if it will work.

thanks

StockyMcStock,

Free running as it spins over by hand easily?

I had the sparky's in mine and couldn't spin it over by hand.

Without the sparky's it spun easy, my other half still couldn't spin it over by the harmonic balancer though.

The RB20DET on the other hand.. lol that was suprisingly easy. Comp in the rb20 was still 145psi+ aswell.

Once in the car the motor bike battery had trouble spinning it over. The rb20det was no problems. Nice big 480cc has done the trick.

I still suspect my rb30det is running around a 9:1 comp ratio.

My calcs tell me 9.2:1 with the piston comp height etc..

The engine builder said around 8.2:1.

I used Wiseco Rb25DET pistons and had the block shaved .020".

I remember seeing another person in this rb30 thread a little while back state they are running wiseco pistons and apparently they were told they will have a 9:1 comp ratio.

There is really no direct comparison between a comp ratio and the psi a comp tester will show as cam overlap between motors is different.

The only real way is to compare a result is to that of the factory result.

i.e if you run a R32 Rb25DE N/a head, compare the pressure reading to that of the factory specs for that head.

Cam overlap bleeds off cylinder pressure. Slap massive cams in the sucker and it may show 110psi. ;)

I'll be comparing my reading to that of the R32 rb25de head as I'm running that head and stock cams with an overlap of 8degree's.

The Turbo cams run 0degree's overlap apart from the RB26 head.

The toy shop is based in Newcastle (Cardiff and hamilton)' date=' not sure if it's assciated with the one in Sydney.

http://www.japimports.com.au/

The Sydney one: http://www.toyshop.com.au/

Hi retrotec;

they moved. i think they're in beaconsfield now, but definately in Sydney.

Cubes: free running as in if the timing belt snaps, none of the valves will hit the pistons.....

lol nice essay but :P

you can spin the crank with all pistons on by hand, but i haven't drilled the new tensioner or torqued the cams down properly yet so i'm not sure about the whole thing. cams are pretty easy to spin though, wish they were bigger :D

haha, yes I did dribble on a little didn't I. :D

Once you have oil pressure and the lifters are pumped up the RBDET's are interference.

I don't know why as it should matter but its the way it is. :D

RB20DET's are free running but once actually started and running the pistons smack the valves. Only slightly I suspect as Bl4ck32's only lost valves in 2 cylinders. The others had obviously hit but didn't completely snap. lol

Just skimming through the 100 odd pages as you do.

Whats the verdict on oil pump. Is the standard RB30 pump good enough. I guess you will see little more RPM with the RB25 head and the boost will add to the stress put on it.

An RB30ET pump is fairly expensive I believe. If you were only going for about 230rwkw it seems that

Staddard RB30E ACL pistons are the go

All other standard RB30E for bottom end including oil pump???

Thanks

I went a second hand low km RB25DET oil pump for $100-150 I forget exactly, the rb25 pump is actually the same as the std. R32 GTR pump.

Lots of oil pressure. Over 8 on the stock guage when cold, when warm 4000rpm+ sees oil pressure nudging 7. cruise is 2, idle is just over the first line.

To be honest the DET doesn't see that many more rev's over the SOHC. Around 1000rpm or so, say 6000rpm peak power providing your hot side is free flowing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...