Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would standard pistons and rods be good for 300rwkw?? i am looking to run a rb30 with stardard bottom end

rb25de head gasket

r32 rb25de head with rb26 valve springs, gtr cams and standard manifold.

what sort of turbo would be best for 260-300rwkw, i am thinking a holset hx35 or a garrett 3040.

does that sound like a good idea. i would like any feed back people have

thanks

it's been mentioned in this thread that the GTRvalve springs can't easily be adapted for the rb25de head.

it would be easier to use the 25det valve springs.

it also been said that with GOOD tuning and supporting mods, keeping boost low, with correct sized turbo, 300rwkw can be achieved using stock na pistons and rods and stock gaskets.

but constant high revs will destroy the stock rods.

not sure about GTR cams in teh 25de head either.

standard manifold is ok.

turbo selection..... I don't know.. not up to scratch with my turbo knowledge in terms of what power the turbo's you've said will produce and at what boost levels.

I think you'd need to be a bit more specific with things like exhaust wheel size and so forth.

Is there a workshop in melbourne that has done the rb31det conversion before that you guys would recommend?

Was going to do most of the work my self but after reading about all the crap people go through with pistons and what not i think i would rather have a warranty.

Id asked this question before.

How does the ECU tell what gear the manual gearbox is in?

The Haltech has boost correction dependant on the gear selected, so i plan to use this to soften the power delivery in 1st gear once boost is wound up.

it seems the "search this thread" option is no longer available.

however, SYDNEYKID had stated that GTR valve springs are not a direct replacement for RB25de heads.

it was due to the lifter in 25 heads not being the same setup as the 26 head.

he mentioned that in his first RB30 build when he used the 25de head from an R32, he changed the valve springs and used 25det valve springs.

maybe he'll see this post and confirm or correct me.

Id asked this question before.

How does the ECU tell what gear the manual gearbox is in?

I have a sensor on 1 front wheel which picks up 5 pulses/revolution. You then calculate how many pulses will occur in 1km and enter this value into the sofware. You work out what each gear ratio equates to in kmh/1000rpm and enter the results plus the required boost correction for each gear and plug this into the software.

The ecu now has a speed reference via the wheel sensor in km, and by using the kmh/1000rpm figures plus the engine rpm it can determine which gear you're in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys my TPS voltage is reading over 2v at idle.  My Haltech ECU is reading around 40% throttle position at idle also which is really strange. Note the actual throttle position sensor is brand new…    anyone have any experience with this or know how to calibrate it on Haltech ? 
    • The OEM disk will not work on any AEM ECU, you need to use the one they made. You shouldn't have to flip the CAS or whatever you were describing, if you set the ignition sync offset correctly it can't backfire. Make sure you're using a spark plug lead on coil 1 instead of the timing loop to avoid weird issues with the timing light. Double check that your timing settings are actually correct, like is the 24 tooth configured correct or should it actually be 12 teeth for 1 crank revolution? I also found this: 305817248-AEM-Undocumented-Settings-v1-2.pdf    
    • Yeah, I don't believe the M35 uses a deadhead system.
    • Have you done your thinking backwards? 3 bar, 43.5 psi pressure drop being the presumed specification for an injector, means you need 3 bar upstream when they are firing into atmospheric pressure, and more upstream pressure than that when on boost (you add your boost to your rail pressure to maintain 3 bar across the injector) and you need..... less pressure upstream when you have vacuum in the manifold. So, presuming that you're idling at -10 psi, then you only need ~23 psi in the rail. I realise that I did not need to say all of that to you specifically Matt, once you'd realised your mistake. It's mostly there for complete clarity for others.
    • Have you reached out to the guys at Spool Imports? They are a Ross dealer, I can imagine they would have the rings just sitting on the shelf (I could be wrong).  
×
×
  • Create New...