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there is no way in hell the belts will touch. a number of factory RB engines have it set up with very little clearance between the belts in that area.

the belt will NEVER come off the tensioner, think about where the drive force is being pulled from, and the angles involved. the tight side will always stay tight, for obvious reasons. the "slack" side will have more flop in it for sure, but no way in hell is it ever going to physically come off the outside tensioner. i see no real reason to put the tensioner up higher, other than the fact that it looks better and the belt wrap on the inlet cam is slightly better. looking at a stock supra engine the other day convinced me that you only need 7-8 teeth in contact anyway.

hi i jus got a few Q's! i'm lookin at gettin a r32 gtr that needs a rebiuld i was wondering if i jus change in a re built rb30 bottom end with tensioner, squirters, sump adapeter, etc!?

would i be able to jus do that and get it retuned? or would i havet to changer other support gear?

any help would be greatly appriciated?

cheers rob

depends how indepth u want to go with ur rebuild. u could end up spending a trash load on the bottom end. also what power ur after and what u intend to use the car for. oh and dont go thinking it can be done in a month or so, caus that wont happen :laugh:

oh and ull also need to get a custom front pipe made up top suit the extra deck height, $600

hi i jus got a few Q's! i'm lookin at gettin a r32 gtr that needs a rebiuld i was wondering if i jus change in a re built rb30 bottom end with tensioner, squirters, sump adapeter, etc!?

would i be able to jus do that and get it retuned? or would i havet to changer other support gear?

any help would be greatly appriciated?

cheers rob

turbo intake pipes, intercooler pipes, exhaust front pipes as minimmum extras

there is no way in hell the belts will touch. a number of factory RB engines have it set up with very little clearance between the belts in that area.

the belt will NEVER come off the tensioner, think about where the drive force is being pulled from, and the angles involved. the tight side will always stay tight, for obvious reasons. the "slack" side will have more flop in it for sure, but no way in hell is it ever going to physically come off the outside tensioner. i see no real reason to put the tensioner up higher, other than the fact that it looks better and the belt wrap on the inlet cam is slightly better. looking at a stock supra engine the other day convinced me that you only need 7-8 teeth in contact anyway.

You need to have a look at an RB30DET cam belt on the engine dyno, you would be surprised how much it flops around the tensioner/idler high rpm. It's why I went for the wide spacing on my RB30DET's.

:thumbsup: cheers :laugh:

but the bearings are the point on tension, so it wouldnt flop there, it would move between the tensioner and the cam gear.

Pretty sure Majanal's rb30 is using the std locations for the bearings.

but the bearings are the point on tension, so it wouldnt flop there, it would move between the tensioner and the cam gear.

exactly my point. the closest point in the setup is the two tensioners, and the belt cannot physically come off the tensioner there.

i agree that the belt will flop on the slack side, but it will never touch.

I did start a thread for this but i thought i'd put it in here aswell just incase there's a chance it's a problem with the engine setup not the turbo and you's are the guys in the know when it comes to rb30det :P

hey,

just after some quick opinons if i may,

just dropped a rb30det into my r33, the motor was not refreshed at all but the guy who built it said the block and head looked in good nick when he was putting it together (he never actually got it started had to sell up big before he got a chance to due to lack of funds)

on thursday we got it up and running full dyno tune everything seemed in order a bit of valve guide wear blowing smoke when getting off the throttle but when driving on the street i didn't notice it all. did a few 5 min trips from mech but to work that sort of thing during the day, driving really nice and smooth very happy

then on my way home gave it a little hit not to much cos it still hadn't really been running but i'd been told i didn't need to run it in cos it was basically like doing a head gasket since the parts weren't refreshed

next thing i know it loses power for a second and there is white smoke everywhere, but it did clear up but from this point she was blowing smoke out the exhaust as soon as you touched the accelerator and upon stopping it stalled but then fired up straight away and drove a little bit further just to get home blowing a bit of smoke of course.

once home i turned it off and check under the hood saw a whole heap of oil in the corner of the engine bay where the airfilter is also where my bov points, started it up again it fired over and then just stalled tried again same thing, lightly holding down the accelerator just a tad and it started a bit ruff but ran with me gradually lifting off it started to idle, tried a couple of times to get it to start just from turing the key no good,

pulled off intercooler piping i have a link ecu with map and started it up had oil spitting out of the pipe that runs from the turbo and not out of the pipe off the plenum don't know if this means much

left it to sit over night, checked it again in the morning on cold start it kicked over and ran like normal except for white smoke out the exhaust

i've already organised for another turbo and have removed most of the piping ect.

visual inspection of turbo

front turbine intact although has oil sitting in it and a bit of oil leaked onto outside of turbo around bolts for front housing.

so yeah sorry about the novel guys just wanted to make sure i made the full story clear lol what i am worried about now is if it is turbo seal was it just old age 140xxxkm quite possible or could something else have caused it just seems a bit funny that as soon as i put the rb30 in the turbo lets go especially at 5psi

thanks in advance for any input guys ;)

by the way this was on standard turbo, but i have noticed a few comments about oil restrictors sorry for been a noob but whats does this imply i thought that been a major possibilty that perphap it's got way to much oil going into the turbo and blew out the seal???

Oil restrictors are for bearing turbo's, they are removed for journal turbo's. Its not your problem. White smoke=water black smoke=fuel blue smoke=oil.

If its white you've got water problems.

But as Cubes said otherwise.

hey guys im up to fitting the timing belt on my motor and just wanted to know what type of spacer did you use bhinde the tensioner on the exhurst side. it seams to me that it would have to be very flat cause the tensioner would run at an angle and cause trouble for the belt

pics would be good of what you have all done

nemini90,

If i read what you are saying correctly you have the series 1 block that doesn't have the flat machined surface for the tensioner on the exhaust side. Some have simply placed 2 tensioners up above the water pump, others.... not sure what others have done. :P

What ever you do ensure 100% that it is perfectly flat as you don't want the belt running off and chewing up.

hey guys im up to fitting the timing belt on my motor and just wanted to know what type of spacer did you use bhinde the tensioner on the exhurst side. it seams to me that it would have to be very flat cause the tensioner would run at an angle and cause trouble for the belt

pics would be good of what you have all done

i have a spacer that my engine builder made up, i took a pic but dunno where it is, i'll have a look around!

Guys, i know the R33 rb25det has vct so do i need to do anything about it if im adding a R32 rb25de head? I dont want to go rb30e bottom end as i like revs and my current set up(hks gt2535,gtr injectors etc) would suit a rb25det very well.

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