Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine doesn't cope well in peak hour traffic on a 40degree day with the a/c on.

When stationary for what feels like an eternity the engine temps slowly creep up. Once I begin moving even 5km/h engine temps drop rapidly.

OR... If I sit idling it at 1500rpm it keeps cool.

At idle the stock viscous fan just doesn't seem to suck enough air.

The ford fans have a high low setup which if setup correctly works well.

i have an on/off davies craig 16 incher on my VL with 25/30, the VL cooling system is arguably worse than the skyline ones i believe. i don't even run a shroud on mine, but have a 3 core VL turbo radiator. i have it set up so that it switches on at 85 degrees, and i've NEVER seen temps go above 89 even when fanging it up hill. does fine in hot, stop start traffic, temps never go above 86 in that case. seems to pull an absolute arseload of air.

When I had mine rebuild/ported polished I was told it had 35mm inlets and 29.5mm exhaust valves. When it got home I measured them and they were what I was told. Which I thought was strange as......... According to the R32 engine manual:

R32 RB26 - 35mm inlet, 30mm exhaust.

R32 RB25DE - 34mm inlet, 29mm on the exhaust.

I remember one measured his r33 rb25det valves and they came up as 34mm inlet and 29.5mm exhaust, I've measured an rb26 head that had 35mm inlet, 29.5mm exhaust yet another bloke has measured his rb26 head and told me they were 34.5mm inlet and 30mm exhaust. :P

There does seem to be a little variance. Probably just the tools used. A poor tradesman always blames his tools. lol

FYI, i've made a circut to run my 16" fan, however i have not used it yet. so it is not proven...

Anyway, My thoughts were to run the fan when it is required, and run half speed (or less) when not triggered by the ecu. The plan was to try and smooth out the heat cycles that would happen with the conventional on/off set up. Now to speed up the warming process, the 1/2 speed function will not happen until the fan has been triggered by the ecu when the engine reaches operating temp after start up.

Anyway, i'm useing a change over relay for the center of the system. As well as a normal relay. A diode (one way electrical valve) a fuse (for saftey)and to get the half speed function, a ballast resistor.

I'll post a picture of the circut later..

i need to find an ecu temp trigger, or make one!

Any thoughts on my project? :P

Mine doesn't cope well in peak hour traffic on a 40degree day with the a/c on.

When stationary for what feels like an eternity the engine temps slowly creep up. Once I begin moving even 5km/h engine temps drop rapidly.

OR... If I sit idling it at 1500rpm it keeps cool.

At idle the stock viscous fan just doesn't seem to suck enough air.

have you thought about changing to a rb25 fan, i have read many times that they draw more air than the rb20 fans

just an option.

Hi Guys,

I'm now a proud owner of an RB25/30. Got my baby back about 2 weeks ago and am now running her in. I've just got the standard 25 turbo in atm but I'm very impressed with the torque. Dan from Elite Racing Developments did a great job. Here's some pics.

post-28461-1170064757.jpg

post-28461-1170064779.jpg

woot congratulations nathan. Finally got it all done hey. Feels alot better then the 25 hey?

Oh got some pics of my rb25/30 also with the new dry sump setup.

post-12828-1170065294.jpg

post-12828-1170065367.jpg

post-12828-1170065757.jpg

post-12828-1170065793.jpg

post-12828-1170065816.jpg

post-12828-1170065846.jpg

post-12828-1170065863.jpg

post-12828-1170065893.jpg

post-12828-1170065939.jpg

Edited by r33_racer

Thanks mate.

But i gotta give credit to SK for giving me the low down when we first started all this. Would have taken us longer to do it right if he hadnt said anything. Cheers Gary.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...