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just a couple of questions.. probably been covered before but spent the last 20 minutes searching and came up with a few hits but no solutions :P

first of all, the oil drain that is located behind the exhaust cam gear, are you guys just T'ing it back into the turbo oil drain? Is this something to do with the PCV system so it would need another hole tapped so it can drain back into the sump?

and last one, the two green water temp sensors (i think that's what they are..) that are present on the rb25 have no place on the rb30 block, and no place machined flat where they could be tapped in (from first impressions anyway), are they being T'd into where the radiater in and out pipes are attatched?

cheers guys,

mark :laugh:

just a couple of questions.. probably been covered before but spent the last 20 minutes searching and came up with a few hits but no solutions :P

first of all, the oil drain that is located behind the exhaust cam gear, are you guys just T'ing it back into the turbo oil drain? Is this something to do with the PCV system so it would need another hole tapped so it can drain back into the sump?

and last one, the two green water temp sensors (i think that's what they are..) that are present on the rb25 have no place on the rb30 block, and no place machined flat where they could be tapped in (from first impressions anyway), are they being T'd into where the radiater in and out pipes are attatched?

cheers guys,

mark :laugh:

Best to put the front oil drain back into the sump to remove any chance of a back caused by the frothy oil from the turbo return, you can T it but you want the oil back down to the sump as fast as possible.

the green sensors are the knock sensors - i have attached a pic that i got from this thread that shows their locations

post-5157-1170243844.jpg

EDIT: Yes i'm retarded, there were spots for them there the whole time, thanks for the info though, much appreciated :miner: <begin flame now>

Best to put the front oil drain back into the sump to remove any chance of a back caused by the frothy oil from the turbo return, you can T it but you want the oil back down to the sump as fast as possible.

the green sensors are the knock sensors - i have attached a pic that i got from this thread that shows their locations

Edited by aphid
Hi Guys,

I'm now a proud owner of an RB25/30. Got my baby back about 2 weeks ago and am now running her in. I've just got the standard 25 turbo in atm but I'm very impressed with the torque. Dan from Elite Racing Developments did a great job. Here's some pics.

mind if i ask how much if cost you?

It's only legal in 31's.

but

You can only get it legal in later models if you convert it to lpg. -EPA bullshit.

or

But if its in a later model and the RB20/25/26 engine number happens to appear on the Rb30 block and the RB30 casting also happens to have been ground down then you wont need a mod plate. As far as the DOT is concerned it is still the original motor. :laugh:

Edited by Alf

Just a quick Question guys,

If I allready have a 3.5" Cat-back exhaust +3"High flow cat+ 3"Dump+front pipe (I think the neck/flange of the front pipe is 2.5")

would there be any benefit upgrading the cat, front and dump pipe to 3.5" as well?

this is on a RB30+HKS2535

(I know I know, its too small, say for future upgrades GT30R or GT35)

well if you upgrade to these other turbo's later (gt30r or GT35) then your front pipes/dump pipe will change anyway so i wouldnt use that argument.

i would say that the extra exhaust flow from the 3L will benefit from the larger dump pipe and Cat - but would wait til you upgrade to save costs

Cubes has busted me and it's time to come clean so enough lurking and enjoying the posts.

Last month I decided to go the RB30 route in the 25t track barge. The bottom end is an SII DE with still perfect 86mm bores. I then decided to buy a 26 head, use a spare complete intake and use my steel wheel turbos coming off my GTR. The GTR makes 260rwkw with these on 1 bar so should have a little more in them on the 26/30. Of course doing this it only makes sense to use decent rods and pistons so forged Spool rods and hi-comp ACL pistons are to be used. I'll go with the hi/low adjusters on the front, long pump drive on the crank, baffled sump, 1.25mm restrictor, Cometic head gasket, oil cooler, 044 with 1.5L swirl pot and GTR feed pump. I'll stay with the Hybrid monster cooler as that works well already. After I have gotten used to it I'll probably shove in bigger injectors and turbos and try to run up at the 350rwkw mark, but maintaining lots down low.

As always I'll build it myself but will try a new machinist to get it done fast as it has to drive to Brisbane on the 3rd of March.

All I can say is I'm looking forward to the fun.

Oh yeh...another one bites the dust. Slowly everyone will get converted to the rb30 side.

And realise that queensland is truly gods country...as Spoolup has already mentioned.

Edited by r33_racer

Just moving home Brad (if I have pistons to make the motor go - nudge nudge) and it's always been both home and gods country to me. No rain here in sh*tsville....err I mean Melbourne. Must be all up at Ingham.

Mike, this project can be partly blamed on you. Love the idea of a dedicated class racing 25t. Unfortunately I have another project awaiting involving a small convertible and a quad cam V8.........

Cubes has busted me and it's time to come clean so enough lurking and enjoying the posts.

Last month I decided to go the RB30 route in the 25t track barge. The bottom end is an SII DE with still perfect 86mm bores. I then decided to buy a 26 head, use a spare complete intake and use my steel wheel turbos coming off my GTR. The GTR makes 260rwkw with these on 1 bar so should have a little more in them on the 26/30. Of course doing this it only makes sense to use decent rods and pistons so forged Spool rods and hi-comp ACL pistons are to be used. I'll go with the hi/low adjusters on the front, long pump drive on the crank, baffled sump, 1.25mm restrictor, Cometic head gasket, oil cooler, 044 with 1.5L swirl pot and GTR feed pump. I'll stay with the Hybrid monster cooler as that works well already. After I have gotten used to it I'll probably shove in bigger injectors and turbos and try to run up at the 350rwkw mark, but maintaining lots down low.

As always I'll build it myself but will try a new machinist to get it done fast as it has to drive to Brisbane on the 3rd of March.

All I can say is I'm looking forward to the fun.

hey mate, whats the part number of the acl pistons your using?>

v8 powered mx5....aww yeh. That was with a removable tube chassis front end if i remember correctly?

Hey with your expertise...could you effectively trick out a skyline with sweet james bond like gadgetry and weapons? Missiles, mini guns and the sort? Ive always wondered if anyone had done it or if it was technically possible/practical.

ACL pistons? Clicky the link in the sig above your post.

Mark, what's up? Bored with ACT. Hows that 26/30 coming along?

Brad, thanks.

Mike, does an RB25DETT count? Surely the 26/30 is near enough? I saw a LAV with a vulcan on top firing over the side. I thought it would roll over at one point. Anything is possible with money....the Bond Die another Day cars actually had the stuff in them, and had to run tiny motors to fit it so possibly not practical. Great ep of House tonight BTW.

Anyway, back on topic....which injector plugs should I source to make a loom for the 26 injectors? I know I should get off my ass and go into the EFI shop but it's easier to just ask and they are closed this time of night..

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