Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Every head should be CC'd if you dont knows it's history.

I know mine had the face machined prior to me buying it and again was faced after the front water gallery was tigged up.

My R33 RB25DET head's bowls averaged at 58.7 CCs . It's time consuming to get the bowls volume close to each other (0.2CC +/-). :)

no. 6 cyl had the largest bowl volume: 59.8CCs. Had to remove a bit of material to clean up the pitting left from detonation.

PS: I used a burette to measure the bowls.

Edited by Alf
Problem solved.

Looks like the cat or middle muffler has collapsed and blocked most of the exhaust.

Got it to 1 bar after I dropped the exhaust at the dump pipe flange and went for a blat up the street.

Whoo hoo, now to just replace the cat or muffler and back to the dyno.

Think Ill have a few beers tonight.

Hope those beers were good.

I should have thought of that. I had a cat collapse once and it was doing similar, but seems fairly uncommon. Well done.

the greddy copy manifolds have been discussed in the froced inuction forum, the casting quality seems to be poor, and you can get them off ebay for about $200, noone has got dyno proof yet if they work. I think the siemens injectors are all top feed, so unless you get an r34 fuel rail, which fits the greddy copy manifold, they wont fit. Even with the rail, im not sure if the siemens are the same dimensions as the r34 gtt injectors

Ohhh ok.

I just thought they had smaller housings than a GT35 or are they the same but with smaller wheels?

Do a search for the results of R31Nismoid...its his old turbo that you are talking about.

Also, another quetion... those of you running RB25 heads vs Rb26. IS there a measurable difference between the results are ppl getting with the same turbos...main variable being head and inlet plenum?

Not sure if i should bother with an RB26 head or not

Do a search for the results of R31Nismoid...its his old turbo that you are talking about.

Also, another quetion... those of you running RB25 heads vs Rb26. IS there a measurable difference between the results are ppl getting with the same turbos...main variable being head and inlet plenum?

Not sure if i should bother with an RB26 head or not

Forget about whether or not the RB26 head itself is "better", the fact is it will work out cheaper when you add it all up. Inlet manifold, multiple throttle bodies, plenum, top feed injectors, cams, solid followers, no VVT, adj camshaft pulleys, valves, valves springs etc etc. They are what makes an RB26 head the ONLY way to go.

:P cheers ;)

I cut the cat out of my exhaust today - it is completely screwed and deformed internally. If you hold it up to the light you can not see any daylight.

In the end I couldnt even get the car to idle there was that much back pressure.

It is approx 2500 kms old - I am currently in discussions with regards to a warranty claim so dont want to mention any names as yet. It was not a cheap item though.

yeah - that gets a little expensive when you get defected and they decide to take a closer look - I did consider it though.

Custom Exhaust Specialists in Bris are doing me a 3.5 inch custom cat they have XR6 turbos making 700-750 flywheel horsepower with - its cheaper than the 10k fine :-)

time to put a "hi flow" one in then? :P

i need to scan it this weekend but i ran outta fuel so i need to do more work on the dyno after i change the pump.

How is a good way to get out of the fuel problem? i want to get over 400rwkw if i can with the stock head.

peek power was at around 160ks an hour in 4th gear.. i need to bring it down a bit but wont worry about that untill i get the fuel pump situation fixed up.

Full Boost comes on - 110ks an hour (20psi) in 4th gear all the way up to the end 20psi

It even has 5psi of boost at 92ks an hour in 4th.. comes on early i wreckon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...