Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all just thought i would let you know after almost a year im going to be cranking my 30/25 build over tomorrow just a few wires to go and waiting for the tunner to come around and load in a map.

Thanks to all the guys that had imput into the guide and all the people that have answer my post fingers crossed for tomorrow

just some pics of what it now looks like

post-12272-1192003858_thumb.jpg

Thats a very nice looking engine bad you have there, goodluck with everything!

Just a heads up, I notice youve got a thermofan, but no shroud. I'll be doing the same, but pretty sure the shroud will be needed as the thermo only draws air through the immediate area it's placed against. I'll be mounting mine around 25mm off he radiator so the shroud acts as a funnel and the hole for the thermo fan as the exit point (for lack of a better description)

Can someone recommend me a good sump to use? I was looking at the Hi Energy Pro eliminator...

Contact Leigh from "Extreme Turbo Manifolds"

Tel: (02) 4262 8774

He is currently doing mine. Had to send him my sump, oil pick-up arm, and oil pump housing. The capacity is increased to 7ltrs, the oil pick-up is relocated to ensure optimum position and is surrounded by baffles, the oil pump is modified to suck oil from the right hand side (by removing the welsh plug and inserting a fitting). I will need to block off the factory oil intake, to the pump, in the block.

His manifolds are said to be top notch too :thumbsup:

Question... Using Autronic SM4 in my 33 GTSt (not fitted yet). Looking at my old computer/loom, what needs to stay??? Does the std ecu have to stay connected for a/c, dash, any other ancilleries or can I just cut the loom out all together? I seem to have other wires coming from my std loom going to wiper motor (and some other little orange box back there) not to mention that wires head back from the loom towards the fuse box etc. Anyone else have any of these issues when changing computers?? Cheers for any ideas.

Surely I cant be the only person who needs this info, anyone??

no you dont need the std comp for anything with the sm4, im pretty sure it can control everything you throw at it. If you havent already, go trade it in for the new plug n play version. Will save you a heap of hassle.

200 what sort of racing you going to be doing with your car to justify an aftermarket sump?

Nice build gemini90. Why did you keep the pcv valve there to the manifold? You should ditch it mate.

Nice plenum on there too, i wasnt aware hypertune made them for rb25's? If so, must have cost you a fair bit.

I was looking at a dry sump setup but after reading a few threads I went back to the wet sump idea...

Its my understanding that a hi-energy sump has a few baffles and a trap door in it... Maybe drilling and putting an extra inlet coming from the head might be ok...

I have done a basic run in tune for 10psi and have everything running smoothly.

At 10 psi it makes amazing power and is all in by 2800rpm with a slide hiflow that was making full boost on the 20det at 4000 rpm and it feels fantastic to drive. bucket loads of torque and throttle response is fantastic.

I have a few annoying things to sort out.

the water temp sensor from an RB25 does not work on a 20 computer. so i have to track a 20det one down.

one of the cam seals is leaking. bugger... covers, balancer, camgears, rocker covers, timing belt off to replace it. it is just a drizzle but it has o be done.

I have also had to fabricate some bits that i will replace with original bits further down the track,

I ran out of time and had to put the engine in with the original unmodded mounts. so the bonnet would not close. I removed the bonnet heat shield and cut out small sections of reo where needed and refitted the sheilding and it now fits with 3mm washers between the hinges and bonnet.

I will get the mounts lowered 10mm later and all will be good.

she looks stock as a rock and pulls like a cut bastard! hehe

the whole thing cost me about double what i budgeted (this always happens with conversions) but really was worth it.

I am moving to VIC on the weekend and will not get to tuning till I am settled but will be aiming for 270rwkw with instant response. its still a street car and needs to be daily driven so i am not going to crazy.

hey r33 racer

when i was welding the -10 fittings on the covers i was ment to weld up the hole where the pcv valve gose but i forgot

as for the plenum it is a hypertune one they dont make them for 25 yet but they will be soon

there not cheep but i think there worth the money i want to do some testing on it to see what there like against the greedy and stock items but as you would know its not a easy thing to go changing plenums

^^ I used a 25DE head out of an R32, almost identical the the 20 in terms of layout and sensors etc. Only problem encountered was when I snapped the water temp. sensor, the 25DE item made it run in cold start all the time. Had to robbed one off an R32 RB26 manifold and it worked a treat. Car is running on the 32 gtst ecu so it should be just as easy with the 20 pfc >_<

How do people in QLD go about having there rb25/30 legal? Im looking into building a rb25/30 for my r32. There seems to be plenty of people making big power on stock rb30's. What sort of stock pistons would you use in a rb25/30 to maintain the desirable compression ratio?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...