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Hey all just thought i would let you know after almost a year im going to be cranking my 30/25 build over tomorrow just a few wires to go and waiting for the tunner to come around and load in a map.

Thanks to all the guys that had imput into the guide and all the people that have answer my post fingers crossed for tomorrow

just some pics of what it now looks like

post-12272-1192003858_thumb.jpg

Thats a very nice looking engine bad you have there, goodluck with everything!

Just a heads up, I notice youve got a thermofan, but no shroud. I'll be doing the same, but pretty sure the shroud will be needed as the thermo only draws air through the immediate area it's placed against. I'll be mounting mine around 25mm off he radiator so the shroud acts as a funnel and the hole for the thermo fan as the exit point (for lack of a better description)

Can someone recommend me a good sump to use? I was looking at the Hi Energy Pro eliminator...

Contact Leigh from "Extreme Turbo Manifolds"

Tel: (02) 4262 8774

He is currently doing mine. Had to send him my sump, oil pick-up arm, and oil pump housing. The capacity is increased to 7ltrs, the oil pick-up is relocated to ensure optimum position and is surrounded by baffles, the oil pump is modified to suck oil from the right hand side (by removing the welsh plug and inserting a fitting). I will need to block off the factory oil intake, to the pump, in the block.

His manifolds are said to be top notch too :thumbsup:

Question... Using Autronic SM4 in my 33 GTSt (not fitted yet). Looking at my old computer/loom, what needs to stay??? Does the std ecu have to stay connected for a/c, dash, any other ancilleries or can I just cut the loom out all together? I seem to have other wires coming from my std loom going to wiper motor (and some other little orange box back there) not to mention that wires head back from the loom towards the fuse box etc. Anyone else have any of these issues when changing computers?? Cheers for any ideas.

Surely I cant be the only person who needs this info, anyone??

no you dont need the std comp for anything with the sm4, im pretty sure it can control everything you throw at it. If you havent already, go trade it in for the new plug n play version. Will save you a heap of hassle.

200 what sort of racing you going to be doing with your car to justify an aftermarket sump?

Nice build gemini90. Why did you keep the pcv valve there to the manifold? You should ditch it mate.

Nice plenum on there too, i wasnt aware hypertune made them for rb25's? If so, must have cost you a fair bit.

I was looking at a dry sump setup but after reading a few threads I went back to the wet sump idea...

Its my understanding that a hi-energy sump has a few baffles and a trap door in it... Maybe drilling and putting an extra inlet coming from the head might be ok...

I have done a basic run in tune for 10psi and have everything running smoothly.

At 10 psi it makes amazing power and is all in by 2800rpm with a slide hiflow that was making full boost on the 20det at 4000 rpm and it feels fantastic to drive. bucket loads of torque and throttle response is fantastic.

I have a few annoying things to sort out.

the water temp sensor from an RB25 does not work on a 20 computer. so i have to track a 20det one down.

one of the cam seals is leaking. bugger... covers, balancer, camgears, rocker covers, timing belt off to replace it. it is just a drizzle but it has o be done.

I have also had to fabricate some bits that i will replace with original bits further down the track,

I ran out of time and had to put the engine in with the original unmodded mounts. so the bonnet would not close. I removed the bonnet heat shield and cut out small sections of reo where needed and refitted the sheilding and it now fits with 3mm washers between the hinges and bonnet.

I will get the mounts lowered 10mm later and all will be good.

she looks stock as a rock and pulls like a cut bastard! hehe

the whole thing cost me about double what i budgeted (this always happens with conversions) but really was worth it.

I am moving to VIC on the weekend and will not get to tuning till I am settled but will be aiming for 270rwkw with instant response. its still a street car and needs to be daily driven so i am not going to crazy.

hey r33 racer

when i was welding the -10 fittings on the covers i was ment to weld up the hole where the pcv valve gose but i forgot

as for the plenum it is a hypertune one they dont make them for 25 yet but they will be soon

there not cheep but i think there worth the money i want to do some testing on it to see what there like against the greedy and stock items but as you would know its not a easy thing to go changing plenums

^^ I used a 25DE head out of an R32, almost identical the the 20 in terms of layout and sensors etc. Only problem encountered was when I snapped the water temp. sensor, the 25DE item made it run in cold start all the time. Had to robbed one off an R32 RB26 manifold and it worked a treat. Car is running on the 32 gtst ecu so it should be just as easy with the 20 pfc >_<

How do people in QLD go about having there rb25/30 legal? Im looking into building a rb25/30 for my r32. There seems to be plenty of people making big power on stock rb30's. What sort of stock pistons would you use in a rb25/30 to maintain the desirable compression ratio?

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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