Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted
who running a GT35R using speed flow fittings put a restrictor in the line to slow down the oil flow? Is this needed?

dont qoute me on this but i was told garrett turbos already have the restrictor built in and its only the hks ones that dont from what a local workshop told me.

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

Godzilla33 Community Regular

Godzilla33

Posted
Posted

might give garrett a call n check it out from the horses mouth I spose, If anyone should know you would think they would. Thought id heard somewhere along the line that you needed to slow the flow down or they can be inclined to puff a bit of smoke.

xsv_32 Enthusiast

xsv_32

Posted
Posted

Cool also need to no if rb26 valve springs will fit to the 25de head im using as the factory ones wont hold up with the boost.... Iv heard mixed opinions but i really need a straight answer if possible. If anyone could help me out it would be great :blush:

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

R33 RB25DE head is a NO.

R32 RB25DE head is a YES.

The R32 rb25de head is very similar to the rb20det head but I have discovered another difference. The Lifters. I'm about to make a post in the FI section.

who running a GT35R using speed flow fittings put a restrictor in the line to slow down the oil flow? Is this needed?

The GT35 and GT30 cores are the same.

I run a restrictor upstream of the core.

Do note Nissan from factory run 2 restrictors; one at the block and one at the turbo.

I simply followed suit as do GCG.

No issues and I've covered around 10,000-15,000km's with the new turbo.

I used the standard nissan banjo that bolts to the block; had the bundy tune sweated off new bundy tube soldered; and then an appropriate 7/16 inverted flare fitting at the end that bolts to the turbo. Cost $38

Highwayman Newbie

Highwayman

Posted
Posted

Hi there, Alan is my name and I drive a RB30 "powered" GQ Patrol, circa 1992. In thread #6621 I think it was, the author stated that these engines were "quite old" and finished production in the 80's. Mine is a '92 and I think Nissan carried the RB30'S thru to at least '95. Were the engines in storage for 8-10 years? I, like most of you guys, am looking for more power from my RB30 and so far I am looking at doing a NA version of the twin cam idea. As the vehicle is currently carburetted, I know that I have quite a large project on my hands and an even steeper learning curve. I am enjoying this forum and in time, will more than likely be needing loads of advice. I thank you all in advance, Alan."Old" RB30's :)

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
thanks cubes, I got speed flow fittings the other night so ill have to make an inline restrictor to suit, what size did you go for? bout 1mm should do it you reckon?

I used the stock nissan banjo but didn't have the tools required to measure it. It looked 1mm or so?

If you still have yours measure the sucker. :)

Also... GCG when they sell you a new BB GT turbo recommend using a 0.9-1mm restrictor.

Dangerman4 is another who has used a restrictor supplied by GCG with his GT35r .82. He's had his setup for longer than mine and no doubt done more kms as its his missus I mean his car. :)

Godzilla33 Community Regular

Godzilla33

Posted
Posted

will do, think Ive got a mig welder tip that is about .9 - 1mm, just need to machine it to size. The speed flow fittings cost me $220. that was for braided line for oil n water, adapters, 45 & 90 degree oil fittings, three of 90 degree water fittings & a couple of other little adapters.

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, after doing a lot of reading I'm now seriously considering doing this conversion for my cefiro.

I'm not looking for massive power, but I am keen on making power efficiently, I haven't done any definite calculations but I think 250-300rwkw would be a good figure to aim for.

At first, I was intending on doing it as simple as possible, trying to keep costs down, as I said not looking for massive power. So the original plan was to buy a running RB30E and slap the R32 RB25DE head on. Cheap and simple.

But I figure for a bit of extra time, money and effort, using the R33 VCT head would increase performance and efficiency. So that's the current plan.

Also, in an effort to improve response/efficiency and power I'd like to run higher than the approx 8.5:1 compression ratio.

This either means aftermarket pistons, or decking of the block/head. I wouldn't mind getting aftermarket pistons/rods but from what I've read the standard RB30 bottom end is more than capable of the power output I am aiming for.

Is it even possible to deck the block/head to reach this compression ratio and is it cost effective when compared to aftermarket high compression pistons?

If decking is not an option, will I beable to use standard rods with aftermarket pistons?

What about the cost of replacement (new) standard rods? Is this an option and again is it cost effective?

Also, from the RB30 PDF guide on the front page, it mentions O-ringing the block, but I can't recall it being mentioned in any of the buildups in this thread. What are your thoughts on this?

Now to continue reading...

Edited by daisu
GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

O rings are great for stock gaskets but there are plenty of good metal gaskets on the market now with the O ring design built in in a sense.

As for the rest, you will have to decide on the budget you want to keep. Brad (spoolup) can get you CP pistons to give 9:1 at a good price, plus rods if you decide to retire the Nissan ones.

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah I think I'll have to do a few cost estimates first before I decide what I can and can't afford.

At the moment I'm more interested to know if it's possible to deck the block to get 9:1 compression ratio with standard rods/pistons.

Edited by daisu
Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

You probably can deck the head/block to achieve the comp, but you will have to completely disassemble the motor to do so, however to do this, if you ever have head problems, you wont be able to machine the head again. Stock rb30 rods are fine for the power you are after.

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted (edited)

another couple of quick questions for a rb30/26 setup. can u use the rb30 head bolts with the 26 head as the locating pins will keep the head in position wont they? i am only using stock 30 internals and aiming for low 400hp figures so im thinking it should be good enough? im also using a hks drag metal head gasket as well as i have a couple lying around. whats the stock head gasket thickness? these hks ones are 1.2mm is that too thick?

Edited by unique1
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

YAY!

R33 RB25DE head is a NO.

R32 RB25DE head is a YES.

The R32 rb25de head is very similar to the rb20det head but I have discovered another difference. The Lifters. I'm about to make a post in the FI section.

So the R32 RB25DE uses what lifters? I have a complete RB26 head that i was going to strip down for its valves, springs and lifters. If i can confirm whether i use Tomei RB20, RB25 or RB26 solid lifters then i will just grab them and use them with the std valves and aftermarket springs.

The RB26 valve is sodium filled for better cooling, any idea what the RB25DE valves are?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...