Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Or is just jap just got really high prices???QUOTE]

Other place to try for good prices is The Toy Shop in Sydney.

Cheers

The toy shop is based in Newcastle (Cardiff and hamilton)' date=' not sure if it's assciated with the one in Sydney.

http://www.japimports.com.au/

The Sydney one: http://www.toyshop.com.au/

does anyone know any easy way you get the bottom crank gear(if that is what is called) off. people have been saying drill it and bang it off then get a new one. is there a better way? will a bearing puller get it off??

thanks

There is no room to get a puller behind it.

You have to drill a row of small holes along the gear from the front to the back.

And drill the same holes on the opposite side of the gear.

Then get a cold chisel and wack it.

If you drilled the holes deep enough, it will instantly split in to, two sections.

Just use a piece of tape as a depth guage, so you dont drill into the crank itself.

Hope that helps a little.

very informative thread, certainly clears up heaps for me - shall be doing this conversion soon, just purchased an rb25det vct head, and will probably go the powerFC route for management by the sounds of things!

Can't wait to get it on the road, I purchased a 1999 TH magna as a daily driver, so really, anything will be more exciting compared to that!

jesus! or you could just lever it off with a few large screwdrivers and lots of WD-40!

i've had four off and have never had a problem doing it this way.

thats how i got mine off. tight at first but use plenty of wd and keep working it back and forth and will eventually come off.

If anyone was wondering - i just assembled my 30DET and it was definately free running, which is good to know.

standard R33 head (DE cams)

standard nissan .047' head gasket

standard RB30E pistons (ACL)

zero deck height at TDC

geez it looks nice when it's all together - looks like a factory engine.

has anyone welded a gtr plenum on to rb25de runners e.g. cut the intake manifold about 2-3 cm where it bolts to the head then weld a gtr manifold on to the runners? cause for the price of doing that vs trying to run the cross over pipe it looks like a good deal, i am just not sure if it will work.

thanks

StockyMcStock,

Free running as it spins over by hand easily?

I had the sparky's in mine and couldn't spin it over by hand.

Without the sparky's it spun easy, my other half still couldn't spin it over by the harmonic balancer though.

The RB20DET on the other hand.. lol that was suprisingly easy. Comp in the rb20 was still 145psi+ aswell.

Once in the car the motor bike battery had trouble spinning it over. The rb20det was no problems. Nice big 480cc has done the trick.

I still suspect my rb30det is running around a 9:1 comp ratio.

My calcs tell me 9.2:1 with the piston comp height etc..

The engine builder said around 8.2:1.

I used Wiseco Rb25DET pistons and had the block shaved .020".

I remember seeing another person in this rb30 thread a little while back state they are running wiseco pistons and apparently they were told they will have a 9:1 comp ratio.

There is really no direct comparison between a comp ratio and the psi a comp tester will show as cam overlap between motors is different.

The only real way is to compare a result is to that of the factory result.

i.e if you run a R32 Rb25DE N/a head, compare the pressure reading to that of the factory specs for that head.

Cam overlap bleeds off cylinder pressure. Slap massive cams in the sucker and it may show 110psi. ;)

I'll be comparing my reading to that of the R32 rb25de head as I'm running that head and stock cams with an overlap of 8degree's.

The Turbo cams run 0degree's overlap apart from the RB26 head.

The toy shop is based in Newcastle (Cardiff and hamilton)' date=' not sure if it's assciated with the one in Sydney.

http://www.japimports.com.au/

The Sydney one: http://www.toyshop.com.au/

Hi retrotec;

they moved. i think they're in beaconsfield now, but definately in Sydney.

Cubes: free running as in if the timing belt snaps, none of the valves will hit the pistons.....

lol nice essay but :P

you can spin the crank with all pistons on by hand, but i haven't drilled the new tensioner or torqued the cams down properly yet so i'm not sure about the whole thing. cams are pretty easy to spin though, wish they were bigger :D

haha, yes I did dribble on a little didn't I. :D

Once you have oil pressure and the lifters are pumped up the RBDET's are interference.

I don't know why as it should matter but its the way it is. :D

RB20DET's are free running but once actually started and running the pistons smack the valves. Only slightly I suspect as Bl4ck32's only lost valves in 2 cylinders. The others had obviously hit but didn't completely snap. lol

Just skimming through the 100 odd pages as you do.

Whats the verdict on oil pump. Is the standard RB30 pump good enough. I guess you will see little more RPM with the RB25 head and the boost will add to the stress put on it.

An RB30ET pump is fairly expensive I believe. If you were only going for about 230rwkw it seems that

Staddard RB30E ACL pistons are the go

All other standard RB30E for bottom end including oil pump???

Thanks

I went a second hand low km RB25DET oil pump for $100-150 I forget exactly, the rb25 pump is actually the same as the std. R32 GTR pump.

Lots of oil pressure. Over 8 on the stock guage when cold, when warm 4000rpm+ sees oil pressure nudging 7. cruise is 2, idle is just over the first line.

To be honest the DET doesn't see that many more rev's over the SOHC. Around 1000rpm or so, say 6000rpm peak power providing your hot side is free flowing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...