Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday guys. im currently building an rb26/30 for my vl turbo, i will be using an autronic and a 1000hp ta45 turbo.

Just wondering which pistons to use? If I buy CP forgies that come in 9.1 comp ratio it should drop to the perfect

comp ratio once the head is on yeah?

also, do i need to run the oil squirters?

thanks

brad

Fair enough, i stand corrected

Just assumed a 20yr+ old motor would be more prone to failure, especially when almost every VL in the country has been flogged to death :dry: .

i've heard stories that the old school v8 boys looked for 300,000km+ blocks for thier mega hp builds, and wouldnt use fresh, new blocks, because the old ones have been well seasond and the like, dunno how true that is though

I thought that was due to holden putting an inefficient and undersized radiator in the vl...while nissan actually knew what they were doing...hence why vls have overheating problems and the r31 didnt....is that true?...i actually heard that from several holden nuts!

R31's still cracked the sohc heads. BUT it was less common as their cooling system was just that little bit better.

Just a design flaw of the SOHC head.

Overheat our DOHC heads and its very rare to crack one.

nah, they just become pourus and bend...:)

I thought it was due to the fact that the VL radiator sat lower than the top of the head where as the R31 didnt ?

This leads me to my next question:

As the head is sitting an inch higher, is this going to cause problems; just like the radiator issue in the VL?

Do i need one of those custom remote radiator fluid reservoirs, thats mounted higher in the engine bay?

Don't loose sleep over it. The head sitting higher than the radiator isn't a problem providing its bled correctly + I don't believe its anywhere near sitting higher than the radiator, those big rocker covers pump it all up to make it look like it sits higher.

The SOHC head cracking is simply poor head design.

If the SOHC gets a little too warm the heads crack.

R31's have a better alum. radiator that keeps things cooler, a better more open front end that allows more air to the radiator.

VL's biggest and most common problem these days is the radiator's baffle design that rusts allowing water to bypass the core; as a result they get warm and crack. Then there's also the failed viscous fan that fails; temperature creeps up and bang cracked head. Of which also applies to the R31's. I've seen a few also have blocked coolant passages in both the block and head/plenum/inlet. All of which are age/lack of maint. related. :D

Do a little google..

http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&...acked&meta=

Fear not, its just the crapo sohc head design; aus market... chances are it was a rushed job, why sink the development $$ in to a market that is so small. :(

yeah it was a pretty restless night. couldn't believe how quickly it caught, ran and idled smoothly - pretty much straight way, with instant pressure. at least if it's a dog on the dyno I can turn it into a giant water pump and use the RB26 to run it. just got to concentrate on the niggly things that are bound to arise. last night was filling it with coolant, then heard it hitting the floor - thinks oh fark what's that - and it was the banjo that goes into the block - about .5 of a thread too long and the washer didn't seal. running long dumps so getting it out was a bugger, but an hour later and with some judicious application with a hacksaw no more leaks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...