Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

finally got mine up and running

sounds like a 13B when it revs, i love it :D

had it on the dyno this arvo and on the first power run it killed the clutch LMAO

RB25 box and twin plate on the way

Edited by 2GU UP

R32 RB25DE head

GTR valve springs

mild port work

custom plenum and exhaust manifold

CP forgies

stock rods

35/40 turbo

38mm external gate

microtech

nothing crazy

dunno the comp ratio

Edited by 2GU UP

Sorry I didn't reply to your pm SirRacer; I was meaning to grab some pics today but didn't get around to it.

The RB25 and 20's have a water line that runs from the drivers side of the block around the back of the head then in to the turbo. The line delivers its cool water to the turbo directly from the thermostat housing.

I've had a quick look in the engine manual and its hard to see how the rb26 is setup. :S

Need pics ppls. :P

I've attached a pic of a 26 head. The arrow points to where the rb20 and 25 water return secures.

post-382-1196678884_thumb.jpg

Ill go and get a picture of my head this week and post it up. So will i simply need to tap into there and run my line directly into the turbo from there, and then once its finished back into the slot in the block?

Is this how they run factory? Im really not sure, where they get their feeds and so on from. I always thought the block one was it and never thought re the return.

The smaller things are becoming the annoying ones in getting my engine going.

Thanks for the help. If you dont mind getting some pics, id be very greatfull. The engines at the fabricator and hes screaming out where to take the water from and i cant tell him at present as im so bloody confused.

Edited by SirRacer

Im normally half intelligent but im mixing things up here.

Have replied in bold

Sorry I didn't reply to your pm SirRacer; I was meaning to grab some pics today but didn't get around to it.

The RB25 and 20's have a water line that runs from the drivers side of the block around the back of the head then in to the turbo. The line delivers its cool water to the turbo directly from the thermostat housing.

So this is the line that we tap into and run directly to the inlet of the turbo, with the hot water going back into the bottom of the block?

I've had a quick look in the engine manual and its hard to see how the rb26 is setup. :S

Need pics ppls. :P

I've attached a pic of a 26 head. The arrow points to where the rb20 and 25 water return secures.

Water return would suggest this is where the hot water goes, once its come from the turbo. Very confused

so you reckon that the line that comes out of the block under the exaust manifold is the feed? and that the line that runs around the head is the return?

I'm pretty sure its the other way around, the water returns back into the block, as the water that runs around the block is the hottest part of the engine due to that being where the action is, cylinders. and that the water exits the engine via the thermostat, others have said otherwise but im still pretty sure this is the exit not the entry. and the 26 would be the same as the rest of the rb series as far as the direction of flow goes.

but for a 25 or 20 its simple just fit up to the standard pipe that runs around the back of the head, just where the arrow on the pic is there is a thin tube not sure what size exactly but its the only thin metal tube that runs behind the head, the return back into the block, pretty sure there should be a welsh plug or somthing if its a non tubo block that goes into the water gallery.

if you've got a turbo 25 or 20 block around see where the water return is on them, then look at your rb30 block, if its a non turbo there should be a grub screw kind of thing or a welsh plug or somthing blocking the hole

Heres an email from Rob at Rips in NZ www.ripsltd.com who builds the occasional Rb30

Hi,

I pick up water from the back of the block on the turbo side and return the water from the turbo to the front of the plenim, see pix.

Regards Rob

Is the thermostat housing where the water goes out of once its finished in the engine, or is this the point where it is taken from?

Have attached picture for everyones info

post-21312-1196743954_thumb.jpg

Edited by SirRacer

^^ nice! :rofl:

Think I had a lifter collapse in my DE head a couple of days ago, going to rip the set out of the ol' RB20 tonight and whack them in the 30 on Friday. Also got my hands on a GT35R.. need to measure it up and see if it will fit low mount O_o

thats static 9.7-9.8 dynamic seams to be 8.9:1 which comp should i take into accout?

ENTER YOUR DATA CALCULATED DATA

Cylinder Head Volume (cc) Cylinder Head Vol

(cubic in.) 04.026

Piston Head Volume (cc) Piston Head Vol

(cubic in.) -0.915

Gasket Thickness (in.) Swept Volume

(cubic in.) 31.851

Gasket Bore (in.) T.D.C. Volume

(cubic in.) 03.583

Cylinder Bore Diameter (in.) Gasket Volume

(cubic in.) 00.472

Deck Clearance (in.)

Note: Neg. nubmer above deck, Pos. number below deck Deck Volume

(cubic in.) 00.000

Stroke (in.) STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO 09.889

OPTIONAL DATA

Rod Length (in.) Adjusted Stroke (in.) 03.094

Intake Closing Point (degrees)

ABDC @ 0.050 lift plus 15 degrees DYNAMIC EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION RATIO 08.956

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...