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As reported in many posts, I have used the same basic running in process for lots of years and on many engines;

Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so it will be bypassed ie; no filtering.

Check the basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor.

Drive to Bathurst and back, around 500k's, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc. Don't rev the beegeesus out of it, gentle but firm, change throttle openings often, no slogging it in high gears with lots of throttle. Much better to load it up with partial throttle openings going up hills.

Drain the GTX and remove the oil filter.

Refill with Castrol Edge 10W60 and fit a new oil filter.

Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno.

Go racing

Cheers

Gary

What boost levels do you recommend for the first 1/2 hr for a 9.0 comp motor? (GT3582R)

the engines finally up and running, and my god it sounds aggresive.....ive gone 3.5 straight pipe and the turbo spool is insanely loud.

heres a pic.

going in for a final tune on tuesday so will have a dyno chart rdy to go =].

04042008062nx7.jpg

Edited by R34NRG

hey all, im up to page 65 of this thread and plan to read the hole thing.

but just a few quick questions.

what happens if you just bolt the 25det head straight on?? what will or wont work

i dont want the vct as will be using hks cams and gears.

just a few part number quieries.

the JUN crank collar is it 1013M-N001

and the tomie oil restrictors how many does you nead and is it part number 191071

got these numbers from nengun

are nismo injectors side or top feed doesnt say on nengun.

thanks

dan

hey all, im up to page 65 of this thread and plan to read the hole thing.

but just a few quick questions.

what happens if you just bolt the 25det head straight on?? what will or wont work

i dont want the vct as will be using hks cams and gears.

just a few part number quieries.

the JUN crank collar is it 1013M-N001

and the tomie oil restrictors how many does you nead and is it part number 191071

got these numbers from nengun

are nismo injectors side or top feed doesnt say on nengun.

thanks

dan

Nismo injectors are either top or side feed depending on aplication if you ar ordering through nengun they will send you what ever suits your application depending what you have told them ie. if you order nismo injectors to suit R33 RB25DET you will get injectors that are side feed high impedance.

There is some debate over how to attack the VCT issue.

1. Buy an R32 RB25DE head it bolts straight on and does not have VCT (this is what i have) or use an RB26 head but $$$

2. Bolt the RB25DET head on without running the oil to the VCT as mint_R33 has said he knows of a few VL's running like this

3. If you are buying cams and gears and doing it all at once I think you may be able to just fit them up as you would an RB26 but not 100% on that one.

Nismo injectors are either top or side feed depending on aplication if you ar ordering through nengun they will send you what ever suits your application depending what you have told them ie. if you order nismo injectors to suit R33 RB25DET you will get injectors that are side feed high impedance.

There is some debate over how to attack the VCT issue.

1. Buy an R32 RB25DE head it bolts straight on and does not have VCT (this is what i have) or use an RB26 head but $$$

2. Bolt the RB25DET head on without running the oil to the VCT as mint_R33 has said he knows of a few VL's running like this

3. If you are buying cams and gears and doing it all at once I think you may be able to just fit them up as you would an RB26 but not 100% on that one.

would prefer to just stay with det head as thats what i have atm. any other opinion on what happens when you just bolt a det head on. what will or wont work

Quick question has anyone used an ATI damper on a RB30 with a 25 head? heard that they won't bolt up on a 25 but not sure hot they fit on the 30?

Lots of people ure them mate,

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ld-t213503.html

Quick question has anyone used an ATI damper on a RB30 with a 25 head? heard that they won't bolt up on a 25 but not sure hot they fit on the 30?

I am currently using one on my rb25/30 setup.

I had to do 2 modifications to make it all fit nicely.

1/ Move the Power Steering pulley about 5mm forward on the shaft. My mechanic also welded the shaft to the pulley to add strength. The pulley had to be moved forward as the GTR belts are thicker (4 ribbed) than the GTST belts (3 ribbed). Thus the ATI pulley has the p/steering belt a little more forward than the gtst. I am still using the GTST belts; haven't had an issue.

2/ Lathed up a spacer/hub for the engine fan. A 10mm spacer was made for the fan to move it further away from the ATI pulley, as without the spacer there was only a 0.5-1.0mm clearance between the fan blades and the front of the pulley.

10mm was a fraction too big as it clipped the shroud when loaded at 5000rpm, i just simply trimmed the shroud to clear the fan, but i think a 5mm spacer would have no issues.

Note: Mod 2/ would not be necessary if you are going to use Thermo Fans to replace the clutch fan. My mechanic has a thing that he doesn't like using thermo fans on Skylines as he has found the cars to overheat in the past. His build his rules; that way he's the only one i could blame if something goes wrong :thumbsup:

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