Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys. I am also new to the skyline/turbo scene and this is what has happened to me.

I have a 1995 GTS-T. I bought the car with a roady and reg 2 weeks ago and yesterday I got pulled over and fined for driving an unroadworthy vehicle $300. (Steering wheel, Two intake mods, and apparently the exhaust is too low but the car is standard height)

I'm in the process of contacting the mechanic who issued the roadworthy as I now have quite an expense infront of me due to him not doing his job properly.

Any tips on how I should go about this??

Also can you get an aftermarket steering wheel that complies as I really dont like the stock one.

Any help much appreciated

Thanks

your car came factory with an airbag so any wheel u replace it with must retain an airbag so in short no keep your stock one.

as for the exhaust if it is to low which sounds strange if ur rocking tractor hieght but get it tucked will cost u fk all.

put ur factory airbox back on and be done with it. and just put it down to modified car tax.

your mechanic is worth arguiing with only if the car is exactly the same as it was when he issued a rwc, if not your wasting your breath.

good luck

oh and welcome to owning an import in victoria :D

Yeah the car is exactly the same. I've only had it 2 weeks and its spend more than a week parked at the airport lol.

I wouldn't mind changing things back but I have none of the stock parts. It's gonna cost me a few hundred bucks to get something that really I should already have.

Oh well. Think I will take it up with the mechanic and try to get something out of it. Can't hurt I suppose

stock airbox is for sale right now in someguys thread for $100 to tuck ur exhaust IF u need to measure yourself need 100mm + and steering wheel try deer park wreckers or similar. i rkn you can do the whole lot for $250-$300 tops.. and once its done its done..

i feel ya pain with having a rwc an all that but i just also know your chances.

good luck anyway

Im fitting a new front bar atm and its the explosion kit so it retains the stock lights with the indicator and fog light at the bottom, now Im having trouble fitting the lights because the fog light side fouls witht he intercooler piping so I was wondering if I take out the fog light at the back and only keep the plastic in the front so It looks like there is a fog light now just wondering if it goes to a roadworthy check and they try to turn on the fog light and it doenst work because there not there anymore will that be counted as not pass?

if its there then it would be epected to work the likelyhood of getting done would be slim and you can always say the globe died or whatever the case may be, can you trim the back of the light or whatever it is thats hitting the piping to get it in there?

yeah im gona try and trim back the back of the light but dont know if it will be enough if not then yeah just gone have the fog plastic as a dummy with no actual light in the back and just leave the indicators

can someone clear up whether the 100mm ground clearance rule still applies? it has been removed from ADR 43 in 2007 (see link below, section 6.4 ground clearance) and there is now a new way of calculating the ride height based on distance between axles or something.

http://www.comlaw.gov.au/ComLaw/Legislatio...ation1FINAL.pdf

if an ADR is updated does it apply to cars that were built (or complianced for imports) before or do we still use the old ADR's?

also wondering how this new rule will be policed by TMU/vicroads since they now have to calculate the minimum ride height for the car. I worked out that for my wheelbase (2.570m) the ground clearance needs to be at least 86mm. shorter wheelbase cars can go lower.

Sandeep,

It says in the new ADR that all previous ones concerning the same topic have been repealed.

The Acts Interpretation Act 1901 says - "the repeal shall not affect any right privilege obligation or liability acquired accrued or incurred under any Act so repealed".

So it would seem that the old laws are now null and void. So you're on your own figuring out the new formula :woot:

EDIT (forget the above lol)

the ones that are repealed are all ADRs entitled 43/04, so all latest editions of 43/00, 43/01, 43/02 and 43/03 are all still in effect.

the link you posted (43/04) applies only to vehicles manufactured on or after January 1, 1998 (see the applicability table, s 3.2), the other rules (/03 etc) apply to cars manufactured on different dates. it seems as though if you have a car made after 1998 you can get away with epic low front bars (assuming your suspension is done in accordance with Vicroads VSI8)

i don't know when your car was made, but check the rules to see which one applies to you.

for me personally, the /03 one applies (built on or after Jan 1, 1994) so the requirements are:

for any point in the width of the vehicle which is within one metre fore

and aft of any ‘Axle’, 100 mm;

for the mid-point between any 2 consecutive ‘Axles’, the dimension in

millimetres obtained by multiplying the distance between those 2 ‘Axles’

in metres by 33.33; and

for any other point, ‘Ground Clearance’ is such that if the wheels of one

‘Axle’ are on one plane and the wheels on the next consecutive ‘Axle’ are

on another plane which intersects the first so that the angle between them

is 7 degrees 38 minutes the point will pass over the apex transverse to the

vehicle formed by that intersection

It's always been axle's in relation to ride height...

However people just simplistically said "100mm" as it's easier and in most cases the lowest point is the CAT &/or rear underpass for the muffler...

So it's always going to be right near axle's anyway and not the middle of the car :D

(this is an example only)

You could have the exhaust hang say 90mm right in the middle of the car, but then soon as you get near the rear axle/diff you end up pushing outside.

So when making an exhaust you wouldn't deliberately drop to 90mm in the middle, just keep it 100mm all the way. Lesss effort.

(this was an example only)

:woot:

I'll have a more detailed look @ it all later, don't have time from work ATM.

car is a '90 model so 43/01 is the ADR for my car, but it was complianced in 2005 if that makes a difference.

43/01 also says 100mm for any point 1m from the axles (so since the wheelbase of the zed is 2.57 metres then the 0.57m in the middle of the axles can legally be 86mm like R31Nismoid said).

EDIT (forget the above lol)

the ones that are repealed are all ADRs entitled 43/04, so all latest editions of 43/00, 43/01, 43/02 and 43/03 are all still in effect.

the link you posted (43/04) applies only to vehicles manufactured on or after January 1, 1998 (see the applicability table, s 3.2), the other rules (/03 etc) apply to cars manufactured on different dates. it seems as though if you have a car made after 1998 you can get away with epic low front bars (assuming your suspension is done in accordance with Vicroads VSI8)

i don't know when your car was made, but check the rules to see which one applies to you.

for me personally, the /03 one applies (built on or after Jan 1, 1994) so the requirements are:

Ye - but why would you bother? No point deliberately making an exhaust like this:

tuck up -- bend -- hang lower (50cm) -- bend -- tuck up again

Would cost you more. So yes you can be lower than 100mm, but what's the point when its only for 50cm? :thumbsup:

Better off just going 100mm all the way and then not even getting into the argument over a defect.

yeah my car is above legal height anyway and don't plan on lowering it anymore since it'll most likely handle worse if I do. exhaust was done last year and is all tucked in above 100mm, was just trying to explain the law just incase other people have cats or resonators that hang abit lower in the centre of the car.

I doubt they will though.

CAT's have to be a certain distance from the front, and that is always close to the front axle.

Same with mufflers. Usually you can't get big ones in until after the transmission is passed and where the driveshaft begins and that is fast approaching the rear axles on most cars :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...