Jump to content
SAU Community

My Car Was Running Like Shit With A Pod Filter On It.

are33

By are33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

are33 Proficient

are33

Posted
Posted

Ok so i recently installed a DRIFT brand urethane pod filter to my RB25DE, Completly stock engine. And the performance drastically reduced, There was SFA backpressure when driving, And it was just really doughy and had shithouse throttle response. When i put the stock airbox back on it went back to normal. I had it installed properly with the AFM plug correctly on and everything was correct. Does anyone know why this had happened? and will i be better off leaving the airbox and putting a k&n panel filter in or something, Or figuring out a way to run a custom CAI into the top of the stock airbox with the K&N panel filter.

Any suggestions that people have that can improove the flow and maybe power with CAI setups please dont hold back im open to anything, Even if you have had a decent pod setup.

p.s

The pod filter was bracketed to the chassis of the car so it wasnt defectable, With no heat sheild or box to cover it. It still ran like shit regardless of the engine bay temp though.

josh.

BreathLess Collaborator

BreathLess

Posted
Posted

Maybe if you run the pod down through the holes that the Turbo model intercooler pipes are meant to be so its got cold air from outside the car but i dont know if you can be stickered for it.

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

some filters use an oil to help filtration which affects the afm in some cases.

maybe you bumped the afm during installation?

just give the afm a quick clean and see how it goes.

ctjet Grand Master

ctjet

Posted
Posted

possible... but that desnt explain why it ran fine again when he put the stock box back on though. I still think the air filter is of shit quality

lol... make sure its not one that says "Not recommended for turbo charged vehicles" on the bottom of the packaging

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
Maybe if you run the pod down through the holes that the Turbo model intercooler pipes are meant to be so its got cold air from outside the car but i dont know if you can be stickered for it.

I agree ^^^

are33 Proficient

are33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Get an Apexi Dual Air Filter Cone it runs good for me

they are $150 odd arent they.

lol i cant afford that :D

That drift piece of shit was $54 for the pod and adapter :P

Edited by OBNXSH
Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

i cant see any problem really with poor filter design, since it should be able to run without a filter at all with no problems.

my take on it is:

- oil used on filter.

- heat soak from engine causing high temps in the intake.

that said, it's been proven that a pod filter does SFA. the turbo guys are running 200+rwkw with the standard airbox with a decent panel filter.

if you really want to run a pod filter, then a custom air intake with a heat shield is a necessity.

ignuz Mentor

ignuz

Posted
Posted
I dont see how though, Ive seen this exact pod filter on many turbo cars and a few N/A cars and it ran fine with no problems...

Yea just get a K'N panel filter inside your stock airbox so it's nice and stealth, I wish I did that, I've got no idea where my stock airbox has gone now. So i'll be running my boxed PoD with the factory snorkel shooting air in for now.

lanky71 Veteran

lanky71

Posted
Posted
Yea just get a K'N panel filter inside your stock airbox so it's nice and stealth, I wish I did that, I've got no idea where my stock airbox has gone now. So i'll be running my boxed PoD with the factory snorkel shooting air in for now.

I just got a k'n pod filter and it wouldn't fit into my stock box but i left the intake bit of the stockbox in place so it flows some air towards the filter and so far no problems, no noticeable decrease in power or nothing. I will be getting some heat shielding to "box" it in as such and using the stock air intake then i will have cold airflow going to it. Only problem i see is with my car R34 GTT there seems to be alot of hot air flow upwards towards the pod filter where as the other side of the car doesn't get that much hence why it needs to be "boxed in" and also so that it is legal.

  • 3 weeks later...
Sandeep Community Regular

Sandeep

Posted
Posted

Does this help?

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/stall.html

It seems alot of the 300zx guys out there had problems with pod filters. Basically the link explains that by putting a thinnish strip of duct tape on one side of the pod it disrupts the air flow allowing the AFM to get a better reading. Try this first and see if it makes a difference.

Hope this helps!

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Put the filter back on.

Chuck a slightly damp chamois over the filter (Not dripping wet, ring it out properly first!)

Now blip the throttle to some high revs.

Does the chamois get "sucked in"? no? Shit filter.

Yes? Problem isn't from it not flowing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...