Jump to content
SAU Community

I Need Someone That Knows There Turbos For The Rb20


Recommended Posts

Ok i want a name and number of a trustworthy mechanic (eastern suburbs vic)

that really knows about different turbos for the rb20 and rb25

as i have one thats too big i dont wanna make the same mistake again

who knows there stuff that i can take the car too on monday and get proper advice and not hear say

thanks im really in the sh#t

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

id say Race Pace is worth a look but someone told me they work on more RB26's than anything. Ben (i think its Ben?) knows his shit, so if RE dont work out call him and ask...

No harm in Asking. And if they cant help you ask them if they can recommend someone who can

ive spoken to ben yeah he helped me out but i still want a second opinion he told me to go the

3071 charger and swap my turbo over

then rank rotary who tuned my car said they wouldnt do that they would put a cam in and flow the head

i understand that the rb20 doesnt like cams too much

more opinions cant be bad

oh yes they can...

its the good opinions from people who are highly educated on the subject that make it easier. Im not a mechanic i can tell you what to do unfortunately.

RE is my best solution for you... Hyper Tech in Vermont can give you advice, but they dont work on many cars either nowdays

ive spoken to ben yeah he helped me out but i still want a second opinion he told me to go the

3071 charger and swap my turbo over

then rank rotary who tuned my car said they wouldnt do that they would put a cam in and flow the head

i understand that the rb20 doesnt like cams too much

more opinions cant be bad

I would take Bens advice personally. He's never done me wrong in 3 years.

Flowing/cam the head isnt going to do a hell of a lot.

Being (as ive told ya) he did Troys car which is one of the better sorted RB20's on the whole of SAU.

I would take Bens advice personally. He's never done me wrong in 3 years.

Flowing/cam the head isnt going to do a hell of a lot.

Being (as ive told ya) he did Troys car which is one of the better sorted RB20's on the whole of SAU.

Roy's car is pants.

lol...

:D

I would take Bens advice personally. He's never done me wrong in 3 years.
And how long has your car been on the road in those 3yrs? :D

No dubt Ben is good at what he does, just found your comment a little funny.

And how long has your car been on the road in those 3yrs? :laugh:

No dubt Ben is good at what he does, just found your comment a little funny.

It wasn't Ben's workshop that kept it off the road :P

It wasn't Ben's workshop that kept it off the road :P
Chill out man, not even Ash took it like that :P, did you read the second part of my post.

Just found it funny that Ash stated Ben has been looking after the car for the last 3yrs, when it's been off the road for the last 2yrs.

So take a deep breathe, have a cold drink, sit down and relax :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...