Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

even a 1jz is better built than a rb26... id go the 2jz for the ute

Its not about being better built.

Both motors are able to make enough reliable power for traction on the street to be a problem.

Drag only application. Completely different ball game.

We are leaning towards the 2jz. the reason we are doing this is for something different sure we could bolt an 8 or a crate motor in.

anybody seen it done?

yes, there was a light blue VY ute with a 2JZGTE and getrag 6spd in it in Perth. Saw it at Drag Combat 2006.

Did mid 12s from memory and pretty stock too. just cooler, exhaust, pods and a bit of boost.

Edited by _8OO5TED_

regarding what sydneykid said,

-throttle response is nice for the street, toque is better. think of 4AGE vs LS1, i know what i'd rather drive every day. this is not taking into acount fuel consumption, and in the GENIII's case, oil consumption

-toyota dont have a good box for the 2JZ, they used a getrag, so there is a very good box, who gives a f*ck if toyota didnt build it

-if you dont have traction, you havent set it up right. i'm guessing theres are more supras out there running 7's than there is skylines (not on slicks either) not to mention there is no variable for the driveline, it will be rwd whatever motor goes in, i doubt this thing will be made into 4wd (prove me wrong.... please...)

-very good point about the engine and how it ties in, not just what the engine itself is, in this case, i'm still sticking with the 2JZ

We are leaning towards the 2jz. the reason we are doing this is for something different

Why not bolt the 1.5L twin cam out of an Excel into it? That would be "different".

For pure irony, why not go for an EJ20T / EJ25T out of a WRX? I'm assuming there are 20B utes out there.

Why not bolt the 1.5L twin cam out of an Excel into it? That would be "different".

For pure irony, why not go for an EJ20T / EJ25T out of a WRX? I'm assuming there are 20B utes out there.

hahah funny man please think b4 you post :D

hahah funny man please think b4 you post :happy:

I have thought before I've post. And after long consideration and reading lots of posts on various car forums, I've concluded that anyone who modifies their car purely because its "different" is a retard.

For example, I am pretty much sure the clown mentioned here did that engine conversion and colour scheme to be "different". I lost track of the number of people, a few years ago, that were spraying their cars in chameleon paint, and subsequently hot pink, to be "different".

If people break new ground and try something revolutionary to improve the vehicle then I'm all for it. But those people generally have a good engineering theory behind why they're doing something no-one's done before, and will say so. The first person to use an S14 five-speed in an S15 probably did it because he realised it was a stronger gearbox than the often-failing 6 speeder, rather than toughening up the existing box. Or people rebuilding their engines with a forged, high compression bottom end and a well matched turbo running low boost so they can maximise response while still generating a fair amount of power.

I'm not saying the RB26 or 2J is a crap engine, and its a hell of a lot better than the V6 donk Holden uses. It would have the potential of being a very quick ute, although whether it'd be quicker than a FI V8 is another question. But whenever I see someone whose justification for doing something is "different" rather than "better because".....my idiot alarm goes off. And that's when I start suggesting suitably idiotic mods.

Edited by scathing
regarding what sydneykid said,

-throttle response is nice for the street, toque is better. think of 4AGE vs LS1, i know what i'd rather drive every day. this is not taking into acount fuel consumption, and in the GENIII's case, oil consumption

-toyota dont have a good box for the 2JZ, they used a getrag, so there is a very good box, who gives a f*ck if toyota didnt build it

-if you dont have traction, you havent set it up right. i'm guessing theres are more supras out there running 7's than there is skylines (not on slicks either) not to mention there is no variable for the driveline, it will be rwd whatever motor goes in, i doubt this thing will be made into 4wd (prove me wrong.... please...)

-very good point about the engine and how it ties in, not just what the engine itself is, in this case, i'm still sticking with the 2JZ

I was actually trying to find another post he did about price vs kw comparison but couldnt find it

Hehe if you're after something original that no one would ever consider doing, how about the Ford I6 from the XR6 Turbo? Nizpro managed to get 1000hp (or more?) and 8000rpm out of it a while ago, and there are plenty of relatively cheap, off-the-shelf power-up kits for it. Would have more torque than the 2JZ and from what I've seen, is quite a tough little bugger. Probably not as tough as a 2JZ stock for stock, but who wants stock? :happy:

if you are after some advice from Someone who has done the conversion before Anthony from Maxtech put a 2j into his commodore ute and with only bolt ons ran into the 10's with it.

But he has done the conversion so he would have the knowledge.

ive owned both so from experience i would go the 2jz. its such an overengineered motor compared to the gtr motor the power u can pull out is so much higher and some what cheaper. a while ago when i was surfing the supra forums there was a vs ute on there for sale with a 2jzgte a f**k load of power and he was selling for heaps

What's the deal with people saying the LS1 monsters the 2JZ for torque? 2JZ makes just as much torque as the LS1, and at lower revs.

VT LS1 = 446Nm at 4400rpm

VY LS1 = 465Nm at 4400rpm

VVTi 2JZ = 451Nm at 3600 rpm

non-VVTi 2JZ = 440Nm at 3600 rpm; or 380Nm at just 1300rpm

Edited by Big Rizza
What's the deal with people saying the LS1 monsters the 2JZ for torque? 2JZ makes just as much torque as the LS1, but at lower revs.

VT LS1 = 446Nm at 4400rpm

VY LS1 = 465Nm at 4400rpm

VVTi 2JZ = 451Nm at 3600 rpm

non-VVTi 2JZ = 440Nm at 3600 rpm; or 380Nm at just 1300rpm

True, but once you put a big arse single or bigger twins you're gonna lose bottom end grunt.

Bingo!

I'd be throwing an XR6T donk in it! (like someone said earlier)

Hehe that was me :)

A Ford motor in a Holden chassis... purists will have a missive problem with that

but if it works who cares

Yep, they certainly would, but still, it would be excellent to see it done! I wonder what everyone would think about putting the XR6 Turbo engine in a GTR? :) A comparatively cheap way of getting a huge stroker engine... bugger the OS Giken multi-thousand dollar kits for "only" what, 3.1L is it? Go the 4.0L!!!! :)

Your obviously a bit of a Ford fan then

Hehe well not really actually, my dad has a Holden Calais and we don't have Fords around - I just like the XR6T engine! I'm more like what you'd call a fence-sitter - I'd buy whatever the best product was that was out. And if I have a Ford fan around I'll start talking up the Holdens just to piss em off... and vice versa :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...