Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL , the reason I asked was because we keep getting people asking about aftermarket plenum chambers and comparing them to the 33 25DET item . I was wondering if the fact that NA engines only have at best sea level air pressure to charge the cylinders is the 34 25DET plenum going to do it any better in a turbo app . You would think that by having two inlets the cylinder distribution would be better than the single , granted no RB26 inlet though possibly of value if the bits were available cheaply .

Thoughts ? Cheers adrian .

I'll respond to the question with a question:

If there was an advantage to be had in forced aspiration application, do you consider the Nissan engineers would have specified it differently? ie. there would have to be a reason why they gave the pattern makers in the foundry two different designs for turbo vs naturally aspirated RB25.

Certainly sparked some conversation though. Good work :D

Actually looking at the pic above the 2JZGE looked a bit better probably larger to suit 3L . I wondered if feeding the six runners was better from two locations than one . I suppose if you look at the single entry 25 DET plenum the air is directed (straight shot) at the middle cylinders and has to turn corners to reach 2 and 5 and the furthest 1 and 6 . If two inlets were placed to line up with 2 and 5 would distribution be much better ie with the sorts of gas velocity needed to feed a 250-300 Kw engine . BTW I'm not after such power levels but it may get some what they want without spending furtunes .

Cheers A .

heres a good setup....wouldnt it be great if there was one throttle body for each cylinder. Sure beats the single setup and its gotta beat the twin na setup...whaddiya reckon mates? One big chamber that feeds individual throttle bodies for each inlet port....geez why didnt nissan employ me?

The real decision you need to make adrian is do you want the longer runners in your manifold for down low-mid response or the shorter ones like that in a 26 for the better mid-high range flow and response. You more concerned with road drivability or when you hit the track for some sweet circuit action? I reckon that makes your options a little simpler...however you already knew that. Id go 26 and adapt it. There are adapter plates for 26 inlets also im sure greddy make em or someone else. Surely 26 inlet systems arent too exxy? I looked at some ages ago when i was gonna use one, and they were only around 300 bux for whole inlet side. Dont know if thats cheap or exxy though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...