Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys it has cum time to go big on the brakes. i have a 540awhp r33 gtr soon to be 600awhp and want to upgrade my brakes. have looked at just japs big wp brakes and nengun for the big trust grex systems both 6piston front and 4 rear with 355 front disk and 330 rear(not interested in the g4 brakes) will cost around the 6-7 mark installed does any 1 have big brakes that there recommend ap or endless or alcon just want the best brakes to pull me up when i need to stop... any info would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159624-big-brake-upgrade-for-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I assume you are aware that you will not be able to use your current (standard) brake master cylinder in conjunction with any decent brake upgrade. The hydraulic ratios will be wrong, in addition to the leverage and movement ratios of the pedal and consequently you will most likely end up with one or more of the following;

1. A long brake pedal (excessive motion)

2. A heavy brake pedal (excessive force required)

3. An imbalance in the front to rear braking distribution (premature front or rear brake lock up)

I see so many cars that have had extensive/expensive calliper and rotor upgrades, that stop worse than standard. Adds up to a big waste of money, for no benefit.

:( cheers :O

I assume you are aware that you will not be able to use your current (standard) brake master cylinder in conjunction with any decent brake upgrade. The hydraulic ratios will be wrong, in addition to the leverage and movement ratios of the pedal and consequently you will most likely end up with one or more of the following;

1. A long brake pedal (excessive motion)

2. A heavy brake pedal (excessive force required)

3. An imbalance in the front to rear braking distribution (premature front or rear brake lock up)

I see so many cars that have had extensive/expensive calliper and rotor upgrades, that stop worse than standard. Adds up to a big waste of money, for no benefit.

:D cheers :D

Very informative post...but...whats the point of it if you don't tell him how to overcome the issues you have addressed. Id like to know as well.

Very informative post...but...whats the point of it if you don't tell him how to overcome the issues you have addressed. Id like to know as well.

I thought the answer was obvious, get the right sized master cylinders as recommended by the calliper manufacturer. I say "cylinders" (plural) because it is most unlikely that you will find a tandem master cylinder that will properly match any decent calliper upgrades.

:D cheers :D

I have found ppl tend to make a simple topic more complex then it needs to be.

Sure, run out and spend lots of money on bog front and rear kits...but all you need is therma capacity. Std gear works pretty well, but has its limits. The great gear works better then the good gear which works better then the std gear. But i dont think the difference in actuall performance is all that dramatic. The feel yes, but performance no.

. SO you have std Brembo rears, then make sure the rotors are healthy and lines and pads ok. If you have 17" rims grab some 343/355x36mm rotors and run them with CP5555 AP Calipers. If you have 18" wheels then look at running 365x36mm rotors.

Relatively cheap upgrade and works well with std rear calipers/rotors. Just need to play with the rear pad to suit the front pad you are running.

Its all the thermal capacity you will need from a street/track car. Unless you are doing more then 10laps at a time and its actual racing where you cant afford to back off for a single lap to help temps get back under control before running off into the sunset :D

Putting a pedal box in a road car is massive overkill in my eyes...cool, yes. But just be prepared to spend double on what you spent on the setup paying someone to dial it all in and getting it to work as well as the std setup....development costs money. If we are talking about a race car then save your money and strip weight out of the car. It will be cheaper, help smaller brakes live and will actually decrease stopping distances. :D

good post Roy, have you been able to obtain well made caliper offset brackets.

Gary...You answered my question by elaborating in your next post...thank you. Now here's two more...what is the ideal hydraulic ratio? how is it calculated?

hi guys it has cum time to go big on the brakes. i have a 540awhp r33 gtr soon to be 600awhp and want to upgrade my brakes. have looked at just japs big wp brakes and nengun for the big trust grex systems both 6piston front and 4 rear with 355 front disk and 330 rear(not interested in the g4 brakes) will cost around the 6-7 mark installed does any 1 have big brakes that there recommend ap or endless or alcon just want the best brakes to pull me up when i need to stop... any info would be great

The porsche upgrade seems to be a good one , they are monoblock calipers ! john at uas sells them as a upgrade for gtr .

good post Roy, have you been able to obtain well made caliper offset brackets.

For offsetting what caliper and rotor? There was someone floating around late last year doing them. A few ppl bought some, though i have not heard how they have gne with them.

I have had moine on/off so much of late...it is a budget fix that works well. But the more i look at it them the more i am tempted to just bite the bullet and get 4 pot APs on 330-324mm rotors. They are hard to go past for value and performance. But there is always the offset brackets for the cheaper option again. Someone is about to trial some R32 GTR calipers on 340mm rotors. I was going to do it, but honestly im sick of wasting money trilaling stuff because im curious...my car is still slow. Any money i spend from now on has to make my car go quicker :D

Any money i spend from now on has to make my car go quicker

good point. brakes only slow you down.

the porsche 6 spots are a good price at about 800 per side, but you need to add lines, discs, pads and caliper mounting brackets

danoz, not sure why you don't like the g4s, what problem did you have when you tried them?

also....are you having brake problems already or do you think the extra 60kw is going to kill your current ones.

The porsche upgrade seems to be a good one , they are monoblock calipers ! john at uas sells them as a upgrade for gtr .

I've got the Porsche 6 pots on my car, i'm very happy with them. But I do need a bigger master cylinder, I'm hoping the R33 one will boost it enough so the pedel isn't so long after some knock off.

come on guys brake manufactures dont make brake for gtrs that need all these master cylinders to be upgraded or there would sell the master cyliders aswell alot of guys running big brakes say its a mazing difference or there would go spend 7grand on a set up i rang greedy today there run there big brake kits on there gtrs all day on the street and the track for years with no problems at all.

tracker... i just dont like the look and the length that g4 have been in the game i no people using them say there look fine but time will tell. there are propbly a good thing i just want quillty proven race parts

I've got a question, I've got brembo f50's on the front and standard rears on a 90 model 32 ..

i'm in need to get new rotors. they are a two peice hat design and have shown signs of hairline cracks. now i'd say they are fine for the street.

but i want to go to the track on april!

where can i get rotors in sydney for them? what other info will i have to provide to help you guys with my search?

Cheers

come on guys brake manufactures dont make brake for gtrs that need all these master cylinders to be upgraded or there would sell the master cyliders aswell alot of guys running big brakes say its a mazing difference or there would go spend 7grand on a set up i rang greedy today there run there big brake kits on there gtrs all day on the street and the track for years with no problems at all.

tracker... i just dont like the look and the length that g4 have been in the game i no people using them say there look fine but time will tell. there are propbly a good thing i just want quillty proven race parts

this may seem like a dumb question, but how and where did you ring Greddy? I have spoken to a few of their guys in japan, but the only ones that could speak english were mostly just sales people, all the guys with the technical knowledge speak japanese only (unless you speak japanese?).

this may seem like a dumb question, but how and where did you ring Greddy? I have spoken to a few of their guys in japan, but the only ones that could speak english were mostly just sales people, all the guys with the technical knowledge speak japanese only (unless you speak japanese?).

my workshop that looks after my cars deal directly with japan. the question was ask and anwsered the sales guy went and asked the techs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
    • Really, low/midrange torque goes really bad?? I want decent acceleration, maybe I use a stock rb25det neo manifold?    
×
×
  • Create New...