Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the best value and what do they cost? Next question where is the best place to buy them?

Also am going to need to run 10mm spacers with my new wheels. So will need spacers, i assume they must be bolt on. So is a there a good place for longer wheel studs or dont i need them for the bolt on type?

Bolt on type dont need longer studs (you might even have to cut them shorter if your wheel doesn't have the recesses in the back), but I dont think they make 10mm bolt ons, not enough meat to hold the studs. The thinnest I've seen is 15mm with 20mm being much more common. Just Jap sell the 15mm ones and they are hub centric which is helpful :D

Edited by salad

Troy,

I was chasing some hub centric bolt-on 10mm spacers for my gtst. Unfortunately 10mm is too thin for the bolts to be sunk into the spacer and are therefore unavail. The thinest bolt-on spacer I could find was a 15mm one from Kudos MS on these forums.

As for the wheel nuts....I'm using a set of Rays Daytona which are a hollow type (can see how much thread is being used) and have a rotating ring at the part that meets the rims which stops any damage being done to the rim if you over torque the nuts.

Cheers

So if i have a +40 wheel and need it to be +30 your telling me im stuffed?

For a bolt on spacer I'm afraid so.....you can get 10mm dodgy plate spacers though

Will the extra 5mm (ie 15mm bolt on type) really make a difference?

basically for 10mm spacer your only option is slip on. there are 2 types. the cheap arse ones, and the nice alloy ones that have an extra hub lip on them. either one is 'ok' but obviously one type is better! for 10mm spacers, I'd get 10mm longer studs too (well nismo make ones that are either 8mm longer, or 18mm longer). If you go bolt on you wont need new studs but you will almost certainly have to cut down your old ones which means they wont be any good if you want to take the spacers off again. but of course 15mm is the smallest bolt on spacer around. the nicest ones I've seen are the rays daytona ones. will have a look in the rays catalogue when i get home.

oh, and the daytona nuts are the shiznit! plus from memory they are 17mm hex which is handy if you have narrow 'holes' in your wheels which can make 19mm nuts a biatch.

I've got the other version of the Ray's nuts, but the extended long version so I could fit them over long studs if need be (ie taking spacers off). They're nice :D

Paid $200 for them new, but from a 'private' seller who had a few sets.

post-8405-1175665704.jpg

NISMO sells the 7-sided extended long version Lock-nuts

I bought a set when I was in their OMORI factory, basically all 20 of them are 7-sided lock nuts that would fit long studs.

They also have the racing version which has hollow centres.

hey hey i have some killer ones that just landed fully forged out of the same factory as the jap majors but half the price. not branded and shipped around the globe :(

what color? i think i have a sample silver set or black? here somewhere and also a whole lot of spare trust ones if you want the name on them :thumbsup:.

Edited by URAS
Troy,

I was chasing some hub centric bolt-on 10mm spacers for my gtst. Unfortunately 10mm is too thin for the bolts to be sunk into the spacer and are therefore unavail. The thinest bolt-on spacer I could find was a 15mm one from Kudos MS on these forums.

As for the wheel nuts....I'm using a set of Rays Daytona which are a hollow type (can see how much thread is being used) and have a rotating ring at the part that meets the rims which stops any damage being done to the rim if you over torque the nuts.

Cheers

try gallop in nunawading, terracotta drive right next door to us. he has all the diff spacers and supplies most of the traders and wheel shops.

oh, and the daytona nuts are the shiznit! plus from memory they are 17mm hex which is handy if you have narrow 'holes' in your wheels which can make 19mm nuts a biatch.

thankyou i have been looking for some nuts! which would fit my lm gt rims :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...